engine build.
#1
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engine build.
your advice and input required.
do you lot think this is a good off.
manley pistons and h-beam rods.
apr head bolts.
acl bearing (main. thrust, rod)
multi layer headgasket
kevlar timing belt.
all for around £900.
oh and in 2.5.
is this worth me selling myself?.
do you lot think this is a good off.
manley pistons and h-beam rods.
apr head bolts.
acl bearing (main. thrust, rod)
multi layer headgasket
kevlar timing belt.
all for around £900.
oh and in 2.5.
is this worth me selling myself?.
#2
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No idea but step back first and look at the bigger picture for a second.
What will your need for the complete build ? what other parts will a 2.5 effect on your car, gearbox.. brakes and suspension. Also will your ECU run a 2.5 ? and what turbo unit will you need and how much.
There is a lot more to this than meets the eye I will say options are a few, spend a few grand on yours... leave as it is or finally buy a heavily modded car that someone else has already spent on, there are plenty about.
Not putting you off here but there are options and spending £900 may lead you towards £9000 before you realise
What will your need for the complete build ? what other parts will a 2.5 effect on your car, gearbox.. brakes and suspension. Also will your ECU run a 2.5 ? and what turbo unit will you need and how much.
There is a lot more to this than meets the eye I will say options are a few, spend a few grand on yours... leave as it is or finally buy a heavily modded car that someone else has already spent on, there are plenty about.
Not putting you off here but there are options and spending £900 may lead you towards £9000 before you realise
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yeah i know.
well at the moment. i am contemplating 2lt or 2.5. i will be going simtex once the build is completed and ready so the ecu issue will be covered. i have been doing this for a while and have taken into account the pricing for. head work, possible gearbox upgrade. fpr, fuel lines. inlet spacers. mapping time. oils. and other bits and bobs i will need along the line.
the whole point in me buying the engine bits is because i have the choise of either. 2.5 is built and nothing wrong with it. all pistons fine. rods. crank. but would probably replace the bearings if i fit it as it is.
the 2ltr has spun a bearing so its just a base to work from and i still have my engine in my car at the moment which is running so i wont be without the car.
and i can just get my self my project under way. spend time working on my build and take my time with it. i already have the clutch. flywheel. headers. dp. turbo. exhaust and some handeling parts. and the brakes will be on the agenda.
i want to build something solid and im only going for around the 400 mark. but want to have the option open just incase things change in the future (if any of this makes sense)
well at the moment. i am contemplating 2lt or 2.5. i will be going simtex once the build is completed and ready so the ecu issue will be covered. i have been doing this for a while and have taken into account the pricing for. head work, possible gearbox upgrade. fpr, fuel lines. inlet spacers. mapping time. oils. and other bits and bobs i will need along the line.
the whole point in me buying the engine bits is because i have the choise of either. 2.5 is built and nothing wrong with it. all pistons fine. rods. crank. but would probably replace the bearings if i fit it as it is.
the 2ltr has spun a bearing so its just a base to work from and i still have my engine in my car at the moment which is running so i wont be without the car.
and i can just get my self my project under way. spend time working on my build and take my time with it. i already have the clutch. flywheel. headers. dp. turbo. exhaust and some handeling parts. and the brakes will be on the agenda.
i want to build something solid and im only going for around the 400 mark. but want to have the option open just incase things change in the future (if any of this makes sense)
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yeah i have seen mervils and catalunya's cars. both stunning. and i know im going to need to put alot into it.
but i have just been made this offer that i cant refuse. its either 2.0 or 2.5. but as said i dont know what to choose.
will have a chat to the guys if they see this and maybe they could put some info into it for me and help me choose.because after 6 months i still cant decide.
but i have just been made this offer that i cant refuse. its either 2.0 or 2.5. but as said i dont know what to choose.
will have a chat to the guys if they see this and maybe they could put some info into it for me and help me choose.because after 6 months i still cant decide.
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2.5 the extra torque is very nice. But if you get a forged CDB 2.0 then thats pretty mental also
My 2.5 is bonkers.
If you're going bigger turbo then factor in a gearbox upgrade. mine is a PPG straight cut and it sounds very nice and should do for 500+.
No problem as a road car but dragging it might see it off. 6 speed is the way to go, but you have one extra change and they are heavier
My 2.5 is bonkers.
If you're going bigger turbo then factor in a gearbox upgrade. mine is a PPG straight cut and it sounds very nice and should do for 500+.
No problem as a road car but dragging it might see it off. 6 speed is the way to go, but you have one extra change and they are heavier
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2.5 the extra torque is very nice. But if you get a forged CDB 2.0 then thats pretty mental also
My 2.5 is bonkers.
If you're going bigger turbo then factor in a gearbox upgrade. mine is a PPG straight cut and it sounds very nice and should do for 500+.
No problem as a road car but dragging it might see it off. 6 speed is the way to go, but you have one extra change and they are heavier
My 2.5 is bonkers.
If you're going bigger turbo then factor in a gearbox upgrade. mine is a PPG straight cut and it sounds very nice and should do for 500+.
No problem as a road car but dragging it might see it off. 6 speed is the way to go, but you have one extra change and they are heavier
has it had rods inserted down the sides of the bore ? as running a 2.5 block over 1.6 bar is risky to say the least
if i was going to build one again it would be a 2.3ltr as you can run alot more boost than the 2.5 as the 2.5 liners are weak and give under high boost
as for gearbox the 6 speed is one of the best options as you can pick up great deals just need to look out for them just check out daz thread on projects as he picked up a full engine with 6 speed and has avcs heads for around 1500
ppg are expensive and seen lots of people who have broke them but are great boxes and would be better than the 6 speed if you intend to do events
if your going to go 400+ it's a very expensive with a scoob good luck and well done for doing it yourself mate
i have been there and done it and it's very rewarding when it's all up and running there are lots of poeple who can help you on here so go for it mate
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cheers mate,
whats your thoughts on it. ideally i could keep with the 2 lt. as i do want to go to 400 but i dont want to go ott with it. i use mine daily so it has to be practical. part of me wants to go 2.5 because i can. but part of me just wants to forge my own 2lt and stick with that. keep it orginal so to speak.
whats your thoughts on it. ideally i could keep with the 2 lt. as i do want to go to 400 but i dont want to go ott with it. i use mine daily so it has to be practical. part of me wants to go 2.5 because i can. but part of me just wants to forge my own 2lt and stick with that. keep it orginal so to speak.
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I went with the 2.1 because of it's revvy aspect, 2.5 would've been great but also wanted something different! As Lee said, 2.33 is the way to go but 2.2 blocks are expensive! A CDB is a wise choice too All the little bits add up and as Si said, it's not long before you hit the 9k mark!!
Still need to get some fuelling bits before I break the 500/500 mark
Still need to get some fuelling bits before I break the 500/500 mark
Last edited by mervil; 04 March 2010 at 07:49 AM. Reason: Crappy iPhone spell checker!!
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cheers mervil.
if i was to go stroker. then what from the list above would i need to change. is the crank different. i know the pistons need to be bigger. but what else. as im sure there is more that is different
if i was to go stroker. then what from the list above would i need to change. is the crank different. i know the pistons need to be bigger. but what else. as im sure there is more that is different
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what boost you running on your 2.5 dan ?? as thats a good bhp and torque thats under your username
has it had rods inserted down the sides of the bore ? as running a 2.5 block over 1.6 bar is risky to say the least
if i was going to build one again it would be a 2.3ltr as you can run alot more boost than the 2.5 as the 2.5 liners are weak and give under high boost
has it had rods inserted down the sides of the bore ? as running a 2.5 block over 1.6 bar is risky to say the least
if i was going to build one again it would be a 2.3ltr as you can run alot more boost than the 2.5 as the 2.5 liners are weak and give under high boost
0.8 =280BHP,
1.2= 380BHP
1.8= 478BHP
All were run on scoobyclinics rollers, the 478 run is still on the wall at scoobyclinic
The previous guy used 10% meth on the 1.8 figures, it got 446 and 508 on standard V power.
I know what you mean about the rods down the sides, the old engine had barrowed the cylinders as the previous owner had tried even higher boost I was considering liners on the rebuild, but a good 70-80% will drop and require a head skim within a couple of 000's miles
Last edited by DannyBoy007; 04 March 2010 at 09:37 AM.
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I've three boost setting on the EBoost2 Controller,
0.8 =280BHP,
1.2= 380BHP
1.8= 478BHP
All were run on scoobyclinics rollers, the 478 run is still on the wall at scoobyclinic
The previous guy used 10% meth on the 1.8 figures, it got 446 and 508 on standard V power.
I know what you mean about the rods down the sides, the old engine had barrowed the cylinders as the previous owner had tried even higher boost I was considering liners on the rebuild, but a good 70-80% will drop and require a head skim within a couple of 000's miles
0.8 =280BHP,
1.2= 380BHP
1.8= 478BHP
All were run on scoobyclinics rollers, the 478 run is still on the wall at scoobyclinic
The previous guy used 10% meth on the 1.8 figures, it got 446 and 508 on standard V power.
I know what you mean about the rods down the sides, the old engine had barrowed the cylinders as the previous owner had tried even higher boost I was considering liners on the rebuild, but a good 70-80% will drop and require a head skim within a couple of 000's miles
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