Heat shield help please!
25 May 2009, 05:16 PM
#1
Heat shield help please!
i have a rattle coming from the engine bay and i am pretty sure it is one of the heat shields but i cant work out which one so i am going to try to take them off one at a time then test it. What i need is a diagram or pictures of the locations and fixings of all the shields in the engine bay.
If anyone has any or a link to a helpful site it would be very helpful
One thing i do know is its not the turbo heat shield though, one down, god knows how many to go
Since i am getting my hands dirty, would it be worth wrapping the exhaust while under the car or is it not possible while its on the car?
Thanks in advance peeps
Ian
If anyone has any or a link to a helpful site it would be very helpful
One thing i do know is its not the turbo heat shield though, one down, god knows how many to go
Since i am getting my hands dirty, would it be worth wrapping the exhaust while under the car or is it not possible while its on the car?
Thanks in advance peeps
Ian
25 May 2009, 09:07 PM
#3
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Hi - I note you are'nt tackling the turbo heat shield, not sure if they are the same bolts for the other shields, but when I tried to get my turbo one off, the top bolt just sheard off with very little force - I gave up after 1, as didn't want to damage the others - give the bolts a good soak in something first..........release oil or something.
26 May 2009, 03:07 PM
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I had the same prob Ian, took me ages to track it down as it only occassionally rattled. The usual culprit is the heat sheild for the headers, as it was with mine. The spot welds break then they rattle. Just removed mine and left it off with no ill effects at all.
27 May 2009, 12:38 PM
#7
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you will need to take it off to get at all the bolts but as said they will 99% snap you would be better off buying some s/s headers and fitting them instead (much lighter and more bhp)
i have changed my headers and the weight diff is unbelivable, i didnt wrap mine as ive been told it can sumtimes cause more probs than its worth, an ive had no probs with them,
i have changed my headers and the weight diff is unbelivable, i didnt wrap mine as ive been told it can sumtimes cause more probs than its worth, an ive had no probs with them,
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27 May 2009, 12:51 PM
#8
you will need to take it off to get at all the bolts but as said they will 99% snap you would be better off buying some s/s headers and fitting them instead (much lighter and more bhp)
i have changed my headers and the weight diff is unbelivable, i didnt wrap mine as ive been told it can sumtimes cause more probs than its worth, an ive had no probs with them,
i have changed my headers and the weight diff is unbelivable, i didnt wrap mine as ive been told it can sumtimes cause more probs than its worth, an ive had no probs with them,
27 May 2009, 01:42 PM
#9
Heat soak into the engine bay is the main reason for wrapping the headers or fitting a heat shield. Heat feeding back into the engine bay will effect intake temperatures especially if your running a CAIK in the engine bay, hot air is bad, cold dense air is good.
You can get away with it by fitting the cone into the wing and then putting ducting from the fog cover.
You always get a better BHP and Torque when you remap in the winter. hot air is thinner and not as dense as cold.
You can get away with it by fitting the cone into the wing and then putting ducting from the fog cover.
You always get a better BHP and Torque when you remap in the winter. hot air is thinner and not as dense as cold.
27 May 2009, 11:05 PM
#11
you will need to take it off to get at all the bolts but as said they will 99% snap you would be better off buying some s/s headers and fitting them instead (much lighter and more bhp)
i have changed my headers and the weight diff is unbelivable, i didnt wrap mine as ive been told it can sumtimes cause more probs than its worth, an ive had no probs with them,
i have changed my headers and the weight diff is unbelivable, i didnt wrap mine as ive been told it can sumtimes cause more probs than its worth, an ive had no probs with them,
Having read through Lee's project 2.5 rebuild, maybe i should be a little more brave when it comes to working on the car and just start getting stuck in myself. It will save me some money, headers look pretty simple to change too
27 May 2009, 11:35 PM
#12
Ian, I have access to a full workshop, ramps and pit in work. I can normally get in on the weekends if you want to get stuff done?
Drop me a PM. This weekend is no good though, moving back in to my house and JTS now work as been cancelled.
Drop me a PM. This weekend is no good though, moving back in to my house and JTS now work as been cancelled.
27 May 2009, 11:49 PM
#13
Be carefull though mate, i could have the car in bits given half a chance, its been a while since i got my hands dirty and i have been missing it
28 May 2009, 08:34 AM
#14
It's OK. Lately I have done..............
Fitted two pots and new bigger discs to the rear
New front discs
Removed, stripped and painted the calipers
Fitted mudflaps
New door cards
New centre consul sprayed and fitted
Stripped, cleaned and painted the radiator shrouds
Fitted new alloy rear drop links
Fitted a new CD player
New steering wheel
Waxoyled the underside
New ARB's front and rear
Taken out and refitted the new IC three times
Had a new exhaust fitted
New exhaust bushes
Detangoed
Another few months and I'll be sorted.........................................rea lly, honest, all enhancements will be finished
Fitted two pots and new bigger discs to the rear
New front discs
Removed, stripped and painted the calipers
Fitted mudflaps
New door cards
New centre consul sprayed and fitted
Stripped, cleaned and painted the radiator shrouds
Fitted new alloy rear drop links
Fitted a new CD player
New steering wheel
Waxoyled the underside
New ARB's front and rear
Taken out and refitted the new IC three times
Had a new exhaust fitted
New exhaust bushes
Detangoed
Another few months and I'll be sorted.........................................rea lly, honest, all enhancements will be finished
28 May 2009, 09:45 PM
#15
Heat soak into the engine bay is the main reason for wrapping the headers or fitting a heat shield. Heat feeding back into the engine bay will effect intake temperatures especially if your running a CAIK in the engine bay, hot air is bad, cold dense air is good.
You can get away with it by fitting the cone into the wing and then putting ducting from the fog cover.
You always get a better BHP and Torque when you remap in the winter. hot air is thinner and not as dense as cold.
You can get away with it by fitting the cone into the wing and then putting ducting from the fog cover.
You always get a better BHP and Torque when you remap in the winter. hot air is thinner and not as dense as cold.
what are the cons of it though apart from cost?
sorry for my ignorance lol but what is CAIK?
still a newbie to scoobs having had all naturally aspirated cars before
28 May 2009, 10:51 PM
#16
Cold Air Induction Kit
One of these, in my old Foggy.
This is by Zero Sport version.
It replaces the standard air box. You can mount the cone inside the wing but you have to remove the resonator ( more plastic bits ). It gives a good whooshing noise and is less restrictive than the long normal induction system.
One of these, in my old Foggy.
This is by Zero Sport version.
It replaces the standard air box. You can mount the cone inside the wing but you have to remove the resonator ( more plastic bits ). It gives a good whooshing noise and is less restrictive than the long normal induction system.
29 May 2009, 09:32 PM
#18
Cold Air Induction Kit
One of these, in my old Foggy.
This is by Zero Sport version.
It replaces the standard air box. You can mount the cone inside the wing but you have to remove the resonator ( more plastic bits ). It gives a good whooshing noise and is less restrictive than the long normal induction system.
One of these, in my old Foggy.
This is by Zero Sport version.
It replaces the standard air box. You can mount the cone inside the wing but you have to remove the resonator ( more plastic bits ). It gives a good whooshing noise and is less restrictive than the long normal induction system.
01 June 2009, 11:32 AM
#24
Right Im thouroughly pissed off!
My heatshields have rusted and degraded so bad that I cant get any of them off without removing the whole lot of headers and exhaust every bolt is mangled and every time I try to sort it I get nowhere
are the gaskets reusable? Because I really dont want to spend more cash on the std exhaust when its coming off after MOT in August!
My heatshields have rusted and degraded so bad that I cant get any of them off without removing the whole lot of headers and exhaust every bolt is mangled and every time I try to sort it I get nowhere
are the gaskets reusable? Because I really dont want to spend more cash on the std exhaust when its coming off after MOT in August!
01 June 2009, 09:30 PM
#25
Dont know if i will go with heat wrap if there are some downsides to it in terms of melting the headers
The car doesnt get a ragging so heat soak probably isnt going to be a major issue with my current usage of the car anyway. Just thought i would do it since i would be under there, maybe i will do it when it becomes a track car in a few years
I will drop you a PM or give you a buzz some point this week or early next week to see when i can take you up on your offer. I will take the splitter off while nosing at the heat shields too since it has to come off before i go on holidays.
02 June 2009, 01:03 AM
#27
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Right Im thouroughly pissed off!
My heatshields have rusted and degraded so bad that I cant get any of them off without removing the whole lot of headers and exhaust every bolt is mangled and every time I try to sort it I get nowhere
are the gaskets reusable? Because I really dont want to spend more cash on the std exhaust when its coming off after MOT in August!
My heatshields have rusted and degraded so bad that I cant get any of them off without removing the whole lot of headers and exhaust every bolt is mangled and every time I try to sort it I get nowhere
are the gaskets reusable? Because I really dont want to spend more cash on the std exhaust when its coming off after MOT in August!
you can use the gaskets again but i'd put **** loads off exhaust gunk over them too cos they WILL blow otherwise and thats an mot fail,
02 June 2009, 09:23 AM
#28
bummer fella cold chisel the old ones off and new ones in place is the only way then, bit of a tip buy some studs as well cos guaranteed at least one will **** up,(£6 for a set on ebay)
you can use the gaskets again but i'd put **** loads off exhaust gunk over them too cos they WILL blow otherwise and thats an mot fail,
you can use the gaskets again but i'd put **** loads off exhaust gunk over them too cos they WILL blow otherwise and thats an mot fail,
you cant even get a socket or spanner over any of the nuts/bolts after Mot Im really gonna start doing her up so dont see much point at the moment!
Im just worried now about the heat soak especialy by number 3 cylinder should they cone off
02 June 2009, 05:41 PM
#29
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Right Im thouroughly pissed off!
My heatshields have rusted and degraded so bad that I cant get any of them off without removing the whole lot of headers and exhaust every bolt is mangled and every time I try to sort it I get nowhere
are the gaskets reusable? Because I really dont want to spend more cash on the std exhaust when its coming off after MOT in August!
My heatshields have rusted and degraded so bad that I cant get any of them off without removing the whole lot of headers and exhaust every bolt is mangled and every time I try to sort it I get nowhere
are the gaskets reusable? Because I really dont want to spend more cash on the std exhaust when its coming off after MOT in August!