Camber bolts for V4 type r
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Camber bolts for V4 type r
Hi all,
I have a 1997 v4 sti type r and I am looking at getting a geo setup.
I understand (like on my bugeye ) I would need some camber bolts.
Would I be wise to buy a pair of eibach front and rear ones?
Or would I only need rear (like I did on my bug)?
I know the eibach are adjustable -1.75 deg to +1.75 deg which would be just fine for my setup.
I have a 1997 v4 sti type r and I am looking at getting a geo setup.
I understand (like on my bugeye ) I would need some camber bolts.
Would I be wise to buy a pair of eibach front and rear ones?
Or would I only need rear (like I did on my bug)?
I know the eibach are adjustable -1.75 deg to +1.75 deg which would be just fine for my setup.
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Any suggestions for specific settings on the car?
I don't want to get too much extra tyre wear ideally.
One person suggested negative 1.5 on front, 1 in the rear. zero toe all around and as much castor as possible in the front.
I feel that the front camber that much could be a bit excessive??? What are your thoughts folks?
I don't want to get too much extra tyre wear ideally.
One person suggested negative 1.5 on front, 1 in the rear. zero toe all around and as much castor as possible in the front.
I feel that the front camber that much could be a bit excessive??? What are your thoughts folks?
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I run 2.5 on the front and 2 on the rear 1.2 degrees toe in on the rear carnt remember how much caster we put on it but it was as much as we could get car is set up for sprints but it also my daily drive haven't noticed any uneven tyre wear and have put about 3000 miles on the road plus side it courners like its on rails all done with with eibach camber bolts front and rear plus the standard front camber bolts
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Thanks for the info guys. I'd seen your post before too bonesetter. Was just curious if the DCCD and power delivery etc on the type r might change things a bit, especially if i still want some decent tyre wear.
I notice both of you suggest a bit of toe in, is that still going to be OK if i'm not pushing it all the time?
And might I just go a touch less camber if I want decent ware if im commuting a bit in the car as well from time to time?
I notice both of you suggest a bit of toe in, is that still going to be OK if i'm not pushing it all the time?
And might I just go a touch less camber if I want decent ware if im commuting a bit in the car as well from time to time?
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Geo set-ups are quite flexible and tweakeable for what you're hoping to achieve.
The fiqures I normally post up should really be considered as a good starting pioint (although that is what I run all the time).
DCCD shouldn't need additional tweaking. As for camber, my suggestions are 'fast road' although I have ran -2° and more with seemingly no bad effect on tyre wear (on a dedicated hooner).
Thing is is to try a setting and see how you like it. You can always tweak it
The fiqures I normally post up should really be considered as a good starting pioint (although that is what I run all the time).
DCCD shouldn't need additional tweaking. As for camber, my suggestions are 'fast road' although I have ran -2° and more with seemingly no bad effect on tyre wear (on a dedicated hooner).
Thing is is to try a setting and see how you like it. You can always tweak it
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Thanks mate. Yea I hear you , thats half the fun of it all right .
Do you definitely reccomend no matter what to go equal camber on front and rear though for the type r?
Do you definitely reccomend no matter what to go equal camber on front and rear though for the type r?
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For a tail happy JDM DCCD Type R, I would go for around -1.5° and not go much below.
With that out back a little more up front, say -1.75° which you should be able to achieve without the need for another camber bolt
Again, see how it feels for you. If you need more or less a small tweak at your geo shop will not cost very much. In fact, it's good to get a good relationship going. I take my cars back if I'm not happy and ssmall tweaks are done for free now
With that out back a little more up front, say -1.75° which you should be able to achieve without the need for another camber bolt
Again, see how it feels for you. If you need more or less a small tweak at your geo shop will not cost very much. In fact, it's good to get a good relationship going. I take my cars back if I'm not happy and ssmall tweaks are done for free now
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Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it.
I suspected it might be wise as you said with the more tail happy nature of the type R to run a bit more up front. Do you reckon I will see decent wear on the T1R's that are on there even if i'm not hooning it all the time?
I know you said you ran up to -2 but that was with a dedicated hooner
The tyres are nearly new so I would like to see some decent even wear for a bit even though they are a softer tyre.
I suspected it might be wise as you said with the more tail happy nature of the type R to run a bit more up front. Do you reckon I will see decent wear on the T1R's that are on there even if i'm not hooning it all the time?
I know you said you ran up to -2 but that was with a dedicated hooner
The tyres are nearly new so I would like to see some decent even wear for a bit even though they are a softer tyre.
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i think the front ends might really perform well and no need at the front . . . But the rear might be just great with them .
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Last edited by JamesLucas; 30 October 2015 at 06:25 AM.
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I understand your point about resisting oversteer, but by "quite a bit" does this mean that -1.75 front and -1.5 rear could be considered excessive if i'm not hooning it all the time? As in causing increased tyre wear because im not pushing it around the bends all the time?
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