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Geo setup, what you think?

Old Mar 15, 2012 | 05:58 PM
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Default Geo setup, what you think?

Carried out a geometry setup today on my type r as we got a new alignment machine today. The goal was a fast road set up so would like some input please on how I've got on.
The only issue I have is I can't get enough camber on the O/S/R.
I have BC coilovers with adjustable top plates front and rear with an A/L/K.
Thanks for looking
Cheers
James

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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 06:08 PM
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Sorry just to add I have a 22mm rear adjustable A/R/B set to middle and the tyres are Yokohama parada spec 2 on 17 inch
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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Pretty good I'd say. Possibly you could go for a little more rear camber than the front, perhaps as much as 2°, but it's nothing much to mention, and personally I like a tad more aggressive toe-in (0.06-8' per side), but that's me.

Thing is you've got a bit of toe-in all round which is good, plus a decent amount of camber (bar the one rear)

What do you thin is going on with the outside rear? You'll feel that, especially knowing it's there now
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 06:36 PM
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Thanks for the reply I'm going to have to have to strip down and have a look at what's going on as the N/S/R started off with well over 2 degrees negative camber. I may add some more toe In all round but want to see how this feels on the road ( once the camber problem is sorted ).
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 06:50 PM
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I should say it will feel brilliant But yes see how it performs. I find the tad extra toe gives a better feedback mid corner, although straight ahead can sometimes feel vague, especially first thing (a scooby trait though tbf), but once warm they're good

Do watch out for those Prada's in the wet though, heard of two Scooby owners recently coming unstuck with those fitted
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 07:19 PM
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They came with the wheels I bought and were fairly new and they worked out cheaper than buying tyres alone but I have heard they are not the best in the wet
Hopefully I can sort out the camber issue but I would of thought I would of had a lot more negative than that as I think it wa that as standard? Maybe something is bent but I've not hit anything?
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 07:25 PM
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I've just noticed something - your toe readings show your wheels are toeing OUT not in

Negetive figures are toe OUT, positive are IN. So your wheels need toeing IN, otherwise your car isn't going to handle too well, and the toe out will be very painful for your tyres

Here's a geo reading off my Type R

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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 07:32 PM
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Well spotted! I took it as negative as toe in lol
At least I can just do it again at no cost.
How was the your tyre wear on that set up as that is not that far off what I'm trying to achieve?
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 07:35 PM
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My Type R gets taken out for intensive hooning sessions only, and I have found the wear to be fine (Yokohama AD08's)
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 07:39 PM
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Mine will be a daily driver. Just thinking about when I carried out the alignment and I remember adjusting the toe and I had to adjust the front track rod arms clockwise and wind into the track rod which I would of thought gave toe in?
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 07:42 PM
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Ignore the above as I have looked at the printout again and yes I have ballsed up the toe settings
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 09:28 PM
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sorry if i am hijacking your thread but i notice my settings are quite different to both yours.
Tyre wear hasn't been great, any thoughts guys?
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 09:53 PM
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That's a poor set-up, and no wonder your tyres are wearing fast

Camber is not enough up front, not too bad out back. Your toe settings, which are toeing out, need changing to 'toe-in'

Camber changes significantly on the Impreza with suspension compression - the so called camber curve. So with cornering, and also braking, the camber wants to reduce and go into positive, so dialling in a fair bit of negative static camber will offset this.

Toe will also go 'out' under suspension compression, so again dialling in static toe-in will offset this

Lowering the car by more than an inch on a STi, and 1.5" on a WRX will substantially accentuate all these effects
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jdc1
Carried out a geometry setup today on my type r as we got a new alignment machine today. The goal was a fast road set up so would like some input please on how I've got on.
The only issue I have is I can't get enough camber on the O/S/R.
I have BC coilovers with adjustable top plates front and rear with an A/L/K.
Thanks for looking
Cheers
James


You just need a set of rear camber bolts
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 10:17 PM
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yeah but with rear adjustable top mounts on my coilovers i would of thought i would have got what i wanted with them on the O/S/R. I need to suss out whats going on with that side first. If nothing obvious then a set of camber bolts.
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by bonesetter
That's a poor set-up, and no wonder your tyres are wearing fast

Camber is not enough up front, not too bad out back. Your toe settings, which are toeing out, need changing to 'toe-in'

Camber changes significantly on the Impreza with suspension compression - the so called camber curve. So with cornering, and also braking, the camber wants to reduce and go into positive, so dialling in a fair bit of negative static camber will offset this.

Toe will also go 'out' under suspension compression, so again dialling in static toe-in will offset this

Lowering the car by more than an inch on a STi, and 1.5" on a WRX will substantially accentuate all these effects
Thanks mate,
I'm not really clued up about geo settings so i told the guy to just do what he thought was right as it was a well respected geometry place. Bit disappointing really. I've rubbed off the inside of my front tyres quite quickly so i was worried about adding more negative camber but are you saying that its more likely the toe out causing that?
(in case it matters mine is a blob wrx not lowered yet)
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 09:12 PM
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Right, sorted out the O/S/R camber problem. Stripped that side down and loosened the strut to hub bolts and was able to push the hub assembly towards the car giving a better negative camber starting point and also found that the alignment plate i used on that side wasn't free moving.
So now i can get plenty of camber adjustment on that side now.
I carried out another alignment correcting my toe setting mistake. I also had the engine out to sort a few things and did notice a change in readings from before and after the engine removal and refitting.
So here's the results second time round

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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 09:16 PM
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How the f@ck has my name changed to Kuma
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 09:51 PM
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Looking good, How does it drive?
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 09:55 PM
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Not been on the road yet, got to get it mot'd and then taxed but can't give it too much as its only done about 10 miles since i rebuilt it so running in but i should notice a difference though
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 09:58 PM
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OIC - you have been busy

Even though you can't 'use' the engine fully you should have a much improved steering feel, and you can still go quick through bends while being gentle on the engine

Enjoy
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 10:03 PM
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Cheers Bonestter
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 10:30 PM
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Afterthought - as it seems you can alter the geo easily, you could try a tad more toe-in when you've gotten things run-in. To about 0.08' like in my print-out above and see how you like it. You can always easily return if you don't
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 10:41 PM
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I may do that as the good thing is i can have a play with the setup as i can get on the ramp most saturdays to do an alignment which is handy
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 08:43 AM
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One more thing. Your caster has 45 minutes variation left to right, the car may pull to the left with that amount of variation


.

Last edited by bonesetter; Mar 29, 2012 at 09:02 AM.
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 11:35 AM
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That's something I did notice And will have to address.
I have fitted an alk, is there any adjustment I could make to try to even it out?
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