Geo setup, what you think?
#1
Geo setup, what you think?
Carried out a geometry setup today on my type r as we got a new alignment machine today. The goal was a fast road set up so would like some input please on how I've got on.
The only issue I have is I can't get enough camber on the O/S/R.
I have BC coilovers with adjustable top plates front and rear with an A/L/K.
Thanks for looking
Cheers
James
The only issue I have is I can't get enough camber on the O/S/R.
I have BC coilovers with adjustable top plates front and rear with an A/L/K.
Thanks for looking
Cheers
James
#3
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Pretty good I'd say. Possibly you could go for a little more rear camber than the front, perhaps as much as 2°, but it's nothing much to mention, and personally I like a tad more aggressive toe-in (0.06-8' per side), but that's me.
Thing is you've got a bit of toe-in all round which is good, plus a decent amount of camber (bar the one rear)
What do you thin is going on with the outside rear? You'll feel that, especially knowing it's there now
Thing is you've got a bit of toe-in all round which is good, plus a decent amount of camber (bar the one rear)
What do you thin is going on with the outside rear? You'll feel that, especially knowing it's there now
#4
Thanks for the reply I'm going to have to have to strip down and have a look at what's going on as the N/S/R started off with well over 2 degrees negative camber. I may add some more toe In all round but want to see how this feels on the road ( once the camber problem is sorted ).
#5
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I should say it will feel brilliant But yes see how it performs. I find the tad extra toe gives a better feedback mid corner, although straight ahead can sometimes feel vague, especially first thing (a scooby trait though tbf), but once warm they're good
Do watch out for those Prada's in the wet though, heard of two Scooby owners recently coming unstuck with those fitted
Do watch out for those Prada's in the wet though, heard of two Scooby owners recently coming unstuck with those fitted
#6
They came with the wheels I bought and were fairly new and they worked out cheaper than buying tyres alone but I have heard they are not the best in the wet
Hopefully I can sort out the camber issue but I would of thought I would of had a lot more negative than that as I think it wa that as standard? Maybe something is bent but I've not hit anything?
Hopefully I can sort out the camber issue but I would of thought I would of had a lot more negative than that as I think it wa that as standard? Maybe something is bent but I've not hit anything?
#7
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I've just noticed something - your toe readings show your wheels are toeing OUT not in
Negetive figures are toe OUT, positive are IN. So your wheels need toeing IN, otherwise your car isn't going to handle too well, and the toe out will be very painful for your tyres
Here's a geo reading off my Type R
Negetive figures are toe OUT, positive are IN. So your wheels need toeing IN, otherwise your car isn't going to handle too well, and the toe out will be very painful for your tyres
Here's a geo reading off my Type R
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#13
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That's a poor set-up, and no wonder your tyres are wearing fast
Camber is not enough up front, not too bad out back. Your toe settings, which are toeing out, need changing to 'toe-in'
Camber changes significantly on the Impreza with suspension compression - the so called camber curve. So with cornering, and also braking, the camber wants to reduce and go into positive, so dialling in a fair bit of negative static camber will offset this.
Toe will also go 'out' under suspension compression, so again dialling in static toe-in will offset this
Lowering the car by more than an inch on a STi, and 1.5" on a WRX will substantially accentuate all these effects
Camber is not enough up front, not too bad out back. Your toe settings, which are toeing out, need changing to 'toe-in'
Camber changes significantly on the Impreza with suspension compression - the so called camber curve. So with cornering, and also braking, the camber wants to reduce and go into positive, so dialling in a fair bit of negative static camber will offset this.
Toe will also go 'out' under suspension compression, so again dialling in static toe-in will offset this
Lowering the car by more than an inch on a STi, and 1.5" on a WRX will substantially accentuate all these effects
#14
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Carried out a geometry setup today on my type r as we got a new alignment machine today. The goal was a fast road set up so would like some input please on how I've got on.
The only issue I have is I can't get enough camber on the O/S/R.
I have BC coilovers with adjustable top plates front and rear with an A/L/K.
Thanks for looking
Cheers
James
The only issue I have is I can't get enough camber on the O/S/R.
I have BC coilovers with adjustable top plates front and rear with an A/L/K.
Thanks for looking
Cheers
James
You just need a set of rear camber bolts
#16
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That's a poor set-up, and no wonder your tyres are wearing fast
Camber is not enough up front, not too bad out back. Your toe settings, which are toeing out, need changing to 'toe-in'
Camber changes significantly on the Impreza with suspension compression - the so called camber curve. So with cornering, and also braking, the camber wants to reduce and go into positive, so dialling in a fair bit of negative static camber will offset this.
Toe will also go 'out' under suspension compression, so again dialling in static toe-in will offset this
Lowering the car by more than an inch on a STi, and 1.5" on a WRX will substantially accentuate all these effects
Camber is not enough up front, not too bad out back. Your toe settings, which are toeing out, need changing to 'toe-in'
Camber changes significantly on the Impreza with suspension compression - the so called camber curve. So with cornering, and also braking, the camber wants to reduce and go into positive, so dialling in a fair bit of negative static camber will offset this.
Toe will also go 'out' under suspension compression, so again dialling in static toe-in will offset this
Lowering the car by more than an inch on a STi, and 1.5" on a WRX will substantially accentuate all these effects
I'm not really clued up about geo settings so i told the guy to just do what he thought was right as it was a well respected geometry place. Bit disappointing really. I've rubbed off the inside of my front tyres quite quickly so i was worried about adding more negative camber but are you saying that its more likely the toe out causing that?
(in case it matters mine is a blob wrx not lowered yet)
#17
Right, sorted out the O/S/R camber problem. Stripped that side down and loosened the strut to hub bolts and was able to push the hub assembly towards the car giving a better negative camber starting point and also found that the alignment plate i used on that side wasn't free moving.
So now i can get plenty of camber adjustment on that side now.
I carried out another alignment correcting my toe setting mistake. I also had the engine out to sort a few things and did notice a change in readings from before and after the engine removal and refitting.
So here's the results second time round
So now i can get plenty of camber adjustment on that side now.
I carried out another alignment correcting my toe setting mistake. I also had the engine out to sort a few things and did notice a change in readings from before and after the engine removal and refitting.
So here's the results second time round
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