Converting 5x100 to 5X114.3 on my wrx bug
15 January 2012, 08:12 PM
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Converting 5x100 to 5X114.3 on my wrx bug
Hi Guys,
I'm wondering, are there any performance benefits in converting my bug wrx from 5x100 to 5x114.3?
Whats the reason people do this conversion?
I'm wondering, are there any performance benefits in converting my bug wrx from 5x100 to 5x114.3?
Whats the reason people do this conversion?
15 January 2012, 08:23 PM
#2
Forget it.
No performance benefits.
Motorsport orientated people do it because the 114 hubs use a larger wheel bearing, and the larger choice of low offset wheels.
You would need 4 hubs, struts, driveshafts, diff to start with.
No performance benefits.
Motorsport orientated people do it because the 114 hubs use a larger wheel bearing, and the larger choice of low offset wheels.
You would need 4 hubs, struts, driveshafts, diff to start with.
15 January 2012, 08:39 PM
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But if you've ever had to deal with pad knock back issues using a big brake kit, having the more robust bearings of the 114.3 are really very, very nice. Though Reshard is right, its usually way too much work and expense to get it to work on a non-STi 5x100 car.
24 January 2012, 10:54 AM
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Its REALLY annoying!! But, the mechanic says that it doesnt affect the performance of the brakes, is that right?
The brakes dont high the bite i thought they would, is this down to my pcd?
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24 January 2012, 02:42 PM
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Nah, that's just your pad sliding around in the caliper. Some designs have the pad more tightly fixed within the caliper, some float around more. As your shop says, won't affect your performance.
Pad knock back is when the caliper pistons are pushed back into the caliper by the rotor under cornering. This is usually due to some play in the hub bearings or flex in the bearing carrier or knuckle. What happens is, in a corner the play at the hub causes the rotor to deflect. This deflection pushes the pistons back into the caliper i.e. it knocks the piston back. What then happens is you go to use the brake and you find that you have none! Pedal goes to the floor (because you piston is now much farther away from the rotor and won't contact it in one application of the pedal). Its the scariest thing on earth if you don't expect it. What most people who experience knock-back regularly do is give a quick tap of the brake before the next braking point to set the pistons in the right place so you have brakes for the next corner. Track oriented brake setup often use anti-knock back springs. These are very lightweight springs inserted into the backs of the brake pistons to force them out after brake application. It keeps the pistons lightly pressed up against the rotor, giving you a nice firm pedal at all times. Pad wear will go up just slightly.
This phenomenon is worse the larger your rotors get (more leverage) and the older your bearings get.
As for pedal bite in your application, its usually down to pad compound. That's usually the determining factor in how much initial bite you have. I've noticed different levels of bite with different pads. I never liked Hawk HPS pads, for instance. Horrible bite. I've been pretty satisfied with the bite of various Ferodo compounds, especially when you get some heat into them.
Pad knock back is when the caliper pistons are pushed back into the caliper by the rotor under cornering. This is usually due to some play in the hub bearings or flex in the bearing carrier or knuckle. What happens is, in a corner the play at the hub causes the rotor to deflect. This deflection pushes the pistons back into the caliper i.e. it knocks the piston back. What then happens is you go to use the brake and you find that you have none! Pedal goes to the floor (because you piston is now much farther away from the rotor and won't contact it in one application of the pedal). Its the scariest thing on earth if you don't expect it. What most people who experience knock-back regularly do is give a quick tap of the brake before the next braking point to set the pistons in the right place so you have brakes for the next corner. Track oriented brake setup often use anti-knock back springs. These are very lightweight springs inserted into the backs of the brake pistons to force them out after brake application. It keeps the pistons lightly pressed up against the rotor, giving you a nice firm pedal at all times. Pad wear will go up just slightly.
This phenomenon is worse the larger your rotors get (more leverage) and the older your bearings get.
As for pedal bite in your application, its usually down to pad compound. That's usually the determining factor in how much initial bite you have. I've noticed different levels of bite with different pads. I never liked Hawk HPS pads, for instance. Horrible bite. I've been pretty satisfied with the bite of various Ferodo compounds, especially when you get some heat into them.
Last edited by Arnie_1; 24 January 2012 at 02:43 PM.
24 January 2012, 04:02 PM
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Nah, that's just your pad sliding around in the caliper. Some designs have the pad more tightly fixed within the caliper, some float around more. As your shop says, won't affect your performance.
Pad knock back is when the caliper pistons are pushed back into the caliper by the rotor under cornering. This is usually due to some play in the hub bearings or flex in the bearing carrier or knuckle. What happens is, in a corner the play at the hub causes the rotor to deflect. This deflection pushes the pistons back into the caliper i.e. it knocks the piston back. What then happens is you go to use the brake and you find that you have none! Pedal goes to the floor (because you piston is now much farther away from the rotor and won't contact it in one application of the pedal). Its the scariest thing on earth if you don't expect it. What most people who experience knock-back regularly do is give a quick tap of the brake before the next braking point to set the pistons in the right place so you have brakes for the next corner. Track oriented brake setup often use anti-knock back springs. These are very lightweight springs inserted into the backs of the brake pistons to force them out after brake application. It keeps the pistons lightly pressed up against the rotor, giving you a nice firm pedal at all times. Pad wear will go up just slightly.
This phenomenon is worse the larger your rotors get (more leverage) and the older your bearings get.
As for pedal bite in your application, its usually down to pad compound. That's usually the determining factor in how much initial bite you have. I've noticed different levels of bite with different pads. I never liked Hawk HPS pads, for instance. Horrible bite. I've been pretty satisfied with the bite of various Ferodo compounds, especially when you get some heat into them.
Pad knock back is when the caliper pistons are pushed back into the caliper by the rotor under cornering. This is usually due to some play in the hub bearings or flex in the bearing carrier or knuckle. What happens is, in a corner the play at the hub causes the rotor to deflect. This deflection pushes the pistons back into the caliper i.e. it knocks the piston back. What then happens is you go to use the brake and you find that you have none! Pedal goes to the floor (because you piston is now much farther away from the rotor and won't contact it in one application of the pedal). Its the scariest thing on earth if you don't expect it. What most people who experience knock-back regularly do is give a quick tap of the brake before the next braking point to set the pistons in the right place so you have brakes for the next corner. Track oriented brake setup often use anti-knock back springs. These are very lightweight springs inserted into the backs of the brake pistons to force them out after brake application. It keeps the pistons lightly pressed up against the rotor, giving you a nice firm pedal at all times. Pad wear will go up just slightly.
This phenomenon is worse the larger your rotors get (more leverage) and the older your bearings get.
As for pedal bite in your application, its usually down to pad compound. That's usually the determining factor in how much initial bite you have. I've noticed different levels of bite with different pads. I never liked Hawk HPS pads, for instance. Horrible bite. I've been pretty satisfied with the bite of various Ferodo compounds, especially when you get some heat into them.
RE: The bite, I have blue stuff pads on the rears and wish I had got them for the front too. I had blue stuff pads on my previous car, they were excellent!
Cheers again for all the info!
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