Handling Issue
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (100)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 13,684
Likes: 0
From: Planet Earth
Handling Issue
I don't know if anyone has come across this problem before but my Spec C's handling is amiss, it's hard to describe but it doesn't feel as 'planted' as before. I've also been told that it's cocking a wheel up on roundabouts. 
I have the following modifications carried out to the suspension:
STi Front Strut Brace
Uprated STi Shock Absorbers
Prodrive Lowering Springs
Perrin 25MM Rear Anti Roll Bar
Perrin Rear Anti Roll Bar Stout Mounts
Whiteline 22MM Front Anti Roll Bar
CDF Racing Uprated Drop Links
Perrin Rear Diff Lockdown Kit and Subframe Locking Bolts
The ride has always been firm and as it's a weekend toy I don't mind that but at the moment it's a real pig.
My initial thoughts were rear drop links / anti roll bar / shock absorbers but they all appear to be ok and the suspension geometry was recently setup by Melvyn Evans Motorsport so I am confident that is all ok.
Any suggestions what to check next welcome.
I have the following modifications carried out to the suspension:
STi Front Strut Brace
Uprated STi Shock Absorbers
Prodrive Lowering Springs
Perrin 25MM Rear Anti Roll Bar
Perrin Rear Anti Roll Bar Stout Mounts
Whiteline 22MM Front Anti Roll Bar
CDF Racing Uprated Drop Links
Perrin Rear Diff Lockdown Kit and Subframe Locking Bolts
The ride has always been firm and as it's a weekend toy I don't mind that but at the moment it's a real pig.
My initial thoughts were rear drop links / anti roll bar / shock absorbers but they all appear to be ok and the suspension geometry was recently setup by Melvyn Evans Motorsport so I am confident that is all ok.
Any suggestions what to check next welcome.
Last edited by Cannon Fodder; Sep 4, 2011 at 04:42 PM.
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (100)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 13,684
Likes: 0
From: Planet Earth
Almost exactly the same mate but I'm on BC coilovers. I moved my ARB to the softest setting from the stiffest and preferred it. Slightly more forgiving on the typical British road. Dare say on a smooth track Tye stiffest setting would be better??
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (100)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 13,684
Likes: 0
From: Planet Earth
Has your mate got any further with his 'problem'?
Ty. Roll centre adjusters..... watch the video (its only 4 minutes), but the bit Im on about is about 1min 40sec in.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGHrA2B0lgE
Trending Topics
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 0
From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
The point people miss is that on sloppy std. suspension the ARB does a fantastic job in patching up the handling.
If you have gone to coilovers, you have gained the roll-stiffness already, so you have less need for a really stiff rear ARB.
All IMHO.
dunx
If you have gone to coilovers, you have gained the roll-stiffness already, so you have less need for a really stiff rear ARB.
All IMHO.
dunx
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (100)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 13,684
Likes: 0
From: Planet Earth
Ty. Roll centre adjusters..... watch the video (its only 4 minutes), but the bit Im on about is about 1min 40sec in.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGHrA2B0lgE
Now I know about this roll centre modification I will sort it out.
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (100)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 13,684
Likes: 0
From: Planet Earth
I'm beginning to think it's a combination of the rear anti roll bar and the rear diff / subframe lock down kit making the rear end too rigid. So I am going to move the anti roll bar to a softer setting and fit a roll centre kit and see what difference it makes.
I did have coilovers on the car when I first had it, but I took them off and reverted the car back to STi shock absorbers with Prodrive lowering springs.
I'm beginning to think it's a combination of the rear anti roll bar and the rear diff / subframe lock down kit making the rear end too rigid. So I am going to move the anti roll bar to a softer setting and fit a roll centre kit and see what difference it makes.
I'm beginning to think it's a combination of the rear anti roll bar and the rear diff / subframe lock down kit making the rear end too rigid. So I am going to move the anti roll bar to a softer setting and fit a roll centre kit and see what difference it makes.
Soften things up.
I`ve known of loads of people changing their suspension setups and then throwing money at sorting the problem, that was caused from the suspension being too firm and unforgiving.
It`s all well and good having it set up for Donnington/Silverstone in the Dry, but that makes it skittish on B-Roads in the wet. This is where the standard uprated setup was best, as it was a compromise between dry performance, and wet handling.
Also you said you had it "set-up" what did you have it set up for??
As geometry will have a MASSIVE effect on the handling, but if your cocking a wheel thats usually too firm an anti-roll bar.
I`ve known of loads of people changing their suspension setups and then throwing money at sorting the problem, that was caused from the suspension being too firm and unforgiving.
It`s all well and good having it set up for Donnington/Silverstone in the Dry, but that makes it skittish on B-Roads in the wet. This is where the standard uprated setup was best, as it was a compromise between dry performance, and wet handling.
Also you said you had it "set-up" what did you have it set up for??
As geometry will have a MASSIVE effect on the handling, but if your cocking a wheel thats usually too firm an anti-roll bar.
Last edited by Jimbob; Sep 5, 2011 at 01:32 PM.
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (100)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 13,684
Likes: 0
From: Planet Earth
Soften things up.
I`ve known of loads of people changing their suspension setups and then throwing money at sorting the problem, that was caused from the suspension being too firm and unforgiving.
It`s all well and good having it set up for Donnington/Silverstone in the Dry, but that makes it skittish on B-Roads in the wet. This is where the standard uprated setup was best, as it was a compromise between dry performance, and wet handling.
Also you said you had it "set-up" what did you have it set up for??
As geometry will have a MASSIVE effect on the handling, but if your cocking a wheel thats usually too firm an anti-roll bar.
I`ve known of loads of people changing their suspension setups and then throwing money at sorting the problem, that was caused from the suspension being too firm and unforgiving.
It`s all well and good having it set up for Donnington/Silverstone in the Dry, but that makes it skittish on B-Roads in the wet. This is where the standard uprated setup was best, as it was a compromise between dry performance, and wet handling.
Also you said you had it "set-up" what did you have it set up for??
As geometry will have a MASSIVE effect on the handling, but if your cocking a wheel thats usually too firm an anti-roll bar.
I am of the same opinion as you and that is that the rear end is too rigid and would be great for track but does not have enough movement for road use.
Bloody hell that means we've nearly agreed on two things now.
The geometry setup is to Prodrive road settings (fast road I believe most would call it) as per their instructions when using their lowering springs.
I am of the same opinion as you and that is that the rear end is too rigid and would be great for track but does not have enough movement for road use.
Bloody hell that means we've nearly agreed on two things now.
I am of the same opinion as you and that is that the rear end is too rigid and would be great for track but does not have enough movement for road use.
Bloody hell that means we've nearly agreed on two things now.
Tbh I`m always sceptical about "Prodrive Settings" as each car is different, your`s isn`t the standard car with just a set of springs added.
Me I`d slacken the rar ARB to the softest it will go, and then see what that does, but to test your better off giving to to Dylan to drive, as in the best possible sense you drive like a grand dad lol.
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (100)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 13,684
Likes: 0
From: Planet Earth
Thread Starter
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (100)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 13,684
Likes: 0
From: Planet Earth
No mention of an ALK and droplinks for me tho
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 0
From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
I found the ALK to be quite costly for the gain...
The roll centre kit won't work effectively on mine as it isn't more than -10mm on ride height.
A few years ago somebody altered the rear toe on my car and turned it into a damp road suicide machine... it didn't feel stable at 60 mph on a gentle curve. Once a less aggressive set-up was restored the car handled fine.
As you say, what do you do ?, where you are doing it ?, and can you drive it ? Are all pertinent questions.
All IMHO.
dunx
The roll centre kit won't work effectively on mine as it isn't more than -10mm on ride height.
A few years ago somebody altered the rear toe on my car and turned it into a damp road suicide machine... it didn't feel stable at 60 mph on a gentle curve. Once a less aggressive set-up was restored the car handled fine.
As you say, what do you do ?, where you are doing it ?, and can you drive it ? Are all pertinent questions.
All IMHO.
dunx
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 0
From: Slowly rebuilding the kit of bits into a car...
I found the ALK to be quite costly for the gain...
The roll centre kit won't work effectively on mine as it isn't more than -10mm on ride height.
A few years ago somebody altered the rear toe on my car and turned it into a damp road suicide machine... it didn't feel stable at 60 mph on a gentle curve. Once a less aggressive set-up was restored the car handled fine.
As you say, what do you do ?, where you are doing it ?, and can you drive it ? Are all pertinent questions.
All IMHO.
dunx
The roll centre kit won't work effectively on mine as it isn't more than -10mm on ride height.
A few years ago somebody altered the rear toe on my car and turned it into a damp road suicide machine... it didn't feel stable at 60 mph on a gentle curve. Once a less aggressive set-up was restored the car handled fine.
As you say, what do you do ?, where you are doing it ?, and can you drive it ? Are all pertinent questions.
All IMHO.
dunx
Whiteline's ALK is indeed pricey, and a much better result can be achieved with a cheaper castor kit
The extended ball joints are a worthwhile addition, but the track rod ends are not
Also, Whiteline itself lost a bit of confidence with me. Production has been farmed out to North Korea a couple of years ago, R&D budget slashed, marketing budget increased, along with production tolerances too!
Shiny products that may not work comes to my mind? But I'm not bitter
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Phil3822
General Technical
0
Sep 30, 2015 06:29 PM