eibachs or teins?
22 October 2008, 09:08 PM
#1
eibachs or teins?
As above - want to lower my blob and wondering which to go for 
I like the teins because they lower the front more than the rear, but powerstation do a nice package using eibachs and ARB's etc, any commen ts welcome!!
I like the teins because they lower the front more than the rear, but powerstation do a nice package using eibachs and ARB's etc, any commen ts welcome!!
22 October 2008, 09:32 PM
#2
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I just put a set of Tein S-Tech springs on my blob a couple of weeks ago. I haven't had a chance to get the geo set up yet but so far the car seems to love the corners. The ride is a lot less harsh than I was expecting too. I had Eibachs on my last car (Mazda MX6) and was very pleased with them too.
I went for Teins this time as I heard they were better and lowered the car slightly more and were less prone too a knock which I heard the Eibachs could give you. But guess what? Yep, the Teins knock too. I have a slight knock on the rears when I hit a lump or dip in the road, I have gone back and re-torqued all the nuts/bolts and all the springs have rubber top and bottom so there's no metal on metal. Bloody pain in the ***. The only thing I can think it could be the the coils on the spring bouncing off each other. Guess I'll just have to live with it.
A lot of people on here swear by the Teins and also a lot of people have said the Eibachs have been fine too. They are both good springs. Someone said something to me about Teins being designed and tested on Japanese cars in Japan and the Eibachs are German, seemed to make sense.
Hope this has helped. I suppose there are pro's and con's for both.
I went for Teins this time as I heard they were better and lowered the car slightly more and were less prone too a knock which I heard the Eibachs could give you. But guess what? Yep, the Teins knock too. I have a slight knock on the rears when I hit a lump or dip in the road, I have gone back and re-torqued all the nuts/bolts and all the springs have rubber top and bottom so there's no metal on metal. Bloody pain in the ***. The only thing I can think it could be the the coils on the spring bouncing off each other. Guess I'll just have to live with it.
A lot of people on here swear by the Teins and also a lot of people have said the Eibachs have been fine too. They are both good springs. Someone said something to me about Teins being designed and tested on Japanese cars in Japan and the Eibachs are German, seemed to make sense.
Hope this has helped. I suppose there are pro's and con's for both.
22 October 2008, 11:44 PM
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I fitted the Tein's to my newage STI [view my scooby] and I can't fault them.
Really pleased with the appearance and performance.
No knocks on mine whatsoever.
Really pleased with the appearance and performance.
No knocks on mine whatsoever.
23 October 2008, 09:26 AM
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Tein set ups are also available and tested on EU roads with appropriate spring rates e.g. the Superstreet Kit. There is no such thing as a free lunch with suspension, if you want better body control, the payoff is a firmer ride. It's all about compromise.
Ns04
23 October 2008, 01:27 PM
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I am no mechanic but I have a large tool selection and I have lowered most sports cars that I have owned.
It would take around 3-4 hrs under normal conditions [on your driveway]
and the only real specialist tool you will need is spring compressors although I always use coat hangers.
23 October 2008, 01:47 PM
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Is it easy......................well it depends on your capabilities.
I am no mechanic but I have a large tool selection and I have lowered most sports cars that I have owned.
It would take around 3-4 hrs under normal conditions [on your driveway]
and the only real specialist tool you will need is spring compressors although I always use coat hangers.
I am no mechanic but I have a large tool selection and I have lowered most sports cars that I have owned.
It would take around 3-4 hrs under normal conditions [on your driveway]
and the only real specialist tool you will need is spring compressors although I always use coat hangers.
23 October 2008, 03:51 PM
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Tein
Received my Tein springs from Camskill today (super fast service), garage fitting them on tuesday. How much does a geometry set up normally cost from some one like Powerstation? Cheers, Mick.
23 October 2008, 06:06 PM
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Geo setup is around the £80 to £100 mark depending on how many adjustments are needed and time taken. (so I'm told, have my car booked in early next month)
I am very happy with the ride quality the Teins give so far. I am still on standard sized rubber though with a 45 profile. As I said I had Eibachs on my last car and had 35 profile tyres fitted and could feel every bump. Probably down to the tyres I suspect.
Back seat does have to come out to get at the rear top mount nuts but is literally a 2 minute job. 2 bolts hold the bench seat in place and 4 for the back. Lift the back upwards when removing as it is held inplace with 3 or 4 hooks.
I am very happy with the ride quality the Teins give so far. I am still on standard sized rubber though with a 45 profile. As I said I had Eibachs on my last car and had 35 profile tyres fitted and could feel every bump. Probably down to the tyres I suspect.
Back seat does have to come out to get at the rear top mount nuts but is literally a 2 minute job. 2 bolts hold the bench seat in place and 4 for the back. Lift the back upwards when removing as it is held inplace with 3 or 4 hooks.
24 October 2008, 05:33 PM
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I not sure about a "how to" guide but here's mine . . . . . its dead easy.
Tools needed: Spring compressors, 12mm spanner, 12mm deep reach socket, 19mm Spanner, 19mm Socket, Ratchet, extention bar 6" + 12", 6mm Allen key, mole grips, Hammer, punch or old screwdriver, old piece of rag.
Do one corner at a time.
Front:
1 - Open the bonnet and crack but don't undo the three top mount nuts. 12mm deep reach socket.
2 - Jack the car up and remove the wheel (having 1st loosened the nuts)
3 - At the bottom of the strut there are 2 19mm bolts. Top ones (on front only if standard) have camber adjustment on them. Mark the position of the bolt (a mark on the end of the bolt pointing up will surfice). When undoing hold the bolt still and undo the nut without turning the bolt. The bottom bolt is normal so it doesnt matter. Once these are undone, remove. You may need the punch/screwdiver and hammmer to knock them out. Mine where quite tight. You also need to remove the brake line, this is just clipped into place on a bracket on the side of the strut.
4 - The hub should now be free from the strut.
5 - Continue undoing the 3 nuts on the top mount, remove the nuts. Now the whole strut/spring assembly is free to remove. Remove taking care the bottom of the strut doesn't tear the driveshaft boot at the back of the hub. It helps to push the whole hub down on its bushes to give more space.
6 - Before you start to remove the spring etc, mark the top mount and base of the strut for alignment. They have to go back together exactly how it came off. I also maked the fowardmost top mount bolt so I knew the orientation is should go back in. Once you're happy with your marks you can start undoing the spring.
7 - Put the spring compressors on and compress the spring. Put one on each side of the spring to make the compression equal.
8 - Undo the big nut at the top of the strut (inside the top mount). I had to put the 6mm Allen key into the top of the piston to hold it from turning, then grip the socket (19mm I think) with the mole grips to undo. Seemed really awkward and I'm sure there must be a better way of doing this, but it worked for me. Take the nut off with the top mount assembly making sure you remember the order they came off in. Remove the spring with the compressors still on. This is important as you don't want a spring in your face!
9 - Give everything a clean up and put your new spring on, making sure it is seated correctly on the base of the strut. Usually the shorter springs are for the front. You don't need the compressors for this but if you want to use them it won't hurt.
10 - Re-install the top mount in reverse order. Put on the top nut and tighten. I found the best way to tighten this right up was to grip the piston with the mole grips having first protected it with a good thickness of rag to stop scoring (this is important). If you just tighten the top nut the whole piston spins and not sure if it should do this. Get all the alignment correct. The lines you marked on before dismantling.
11 - Grease all the threads/bolts and re-install onto the car in reverse order. Remembering to put the uppermost bottom bolt in how it came out. This adjusts the front camber.
Rear:
1 - Remove the back seat to access the top mount nuts. 2 bolts hold the bench in place. Remove the bolts and the bench seat comes out. 4 bolts hold the back in place. When they are removed you have to lift the seat upwards as its held in place with 3 or 4 hooks. Lift up and remove.
2 - Now you can see the top mount nuts. I think you can get at 2 of these with the socket but for the 3rd you will need your 12mm spanner. Its a bit fiddley.
3 - Same process as the front really but you may need the extention bar to get at the nuts/bolts. The brake caliper gets in the way.
The rear bolts at the base of the strut are normal bolts (well they were on mine) so no need to mark them like the front ones. You also may have to undo from the bolt side not the nut side as you cant get the socket onto the nut as the rear drive shaft is in the way.
You'll learn as you go and this is by no means concise, other people may have better ways of doing this, but the above worked for me.
Good luck mate
Tools needed: Spring compressors, 12mm spanner, 12mm deep reach socket, 19mm Spanner, 19mm Socket, Ratchet, extention bar 6" + 12", 6mm Allen key, mole grips, Hammer, punch or old screwdriver, old piece of rag.
Do one corner at a time.
Front:
1 - Open the bonnet and crack but don't undo the three top mount nuts. 12mm deep reach socket.
2 - Jack the car up and remove the wheel (having 1st loosened the nuts)
3 - At the bottom of the strut there are 2 19mm bolts. Top ones (on front only if standard) have camber adjustment on them. Mark the position of the bolt (a mark on the end of the bolt pointing up will surfice). When undoing hold the bolt still and undo the nut without turning the bolt. The bottom bolt is normal so it doesnt matter. Once these are undone, remove. You may need the punch/screwdiver and hammmer to knock them out. Mine where quite tight. You also need to remove the brake line, this is just clipped into place on a bracket on the side of the strut.
4 - The hub should now be free from the strut.
5 - Continue undoing the 3 nuts on the top mount, remove the nuts. Now the whole strut/spring assembly is free to remove. Remove taking care the bottom of the strut doesn't tear the driveshaft boot at the back of the hub. It helps to push the whole hub down on its bushes to give more space.
6 - Before you start to remove the spring etc, mark the top mount and base of the strut for alignment. They have to go back together exactly how it came off. I also maked the fowardmost top mount bolt so I knew the orientation is should go back in. Once you're happy with your marks you can start undoing the spring.
7 - Put the spring compressors on and compress the spring. Put one on each side of the spring to make the compression equal.
8 - Undo the big nut at the top of the strut (inside the top mount). I had to put the 6mm Allen key into the top of the piston to hold it from turning, then grip the socket (19mm I think) with the mole grips to undo. Seemed really awkward and I'm sure there must be a better way of doing this, but it worked for me. Take the nut off with the top mount assembly making sure you remember the order they came off in. Remove the spring with the compressors still on. This is important as you don't want a spring in your face!
9 - Give everything a clean up and put your new spring on, making sure it is seated correctly on the base of the strut. Usually the shorter springs are for the front. You don't need the compressors for this but if you want to use them it won't hurt.
10 - Re-install the top mount in reverse order. Put on the top nut and tighten. I found the best way to tighten this right up was to grip the piston with the mole grips having first protected it with a good thickness of rag to stop scoring (this is important). If you just tighten the top nut the whole piston spins and not sure if it should do this. Get all the alignment correct. The lines you marked on before dismantling.
11 - Grease all the threads/bolts and re-install onto the car in reverse order. Remembering to put the uppermost bottom bolt in how it came out. This adjusts the front camber.
Rear:
1 - Remove the back seat to access the top mount nuts. 2 bolts hold the bench in place. Remove the bolts and the bench seat comes out. 4 bolts hold the back in place. When they are removed you have to lift the seat upwards as its held in place with 3 or 4 hooks. Lift up and remove.
2 - Now you can see the top mount nuts. I think you can get at 2 of these with the socket but for the 3rd you will need your 12mm spanner. Its a bit fiddley.
3 - Same process as the front really but you may need the extention bar to get at the nuts/bolts. The brake caliper gets in the way.
The rear bolts at the base of the strut are normal bolts (well they were on mine) so no need to mark them like the front ones. You also may have to undo from the bolt side not the nut side as you cant get the socket onto the nut as the rear drive shaft is in the way.
You'll learn as you go and this is by no means concise, other people may have better ways of doing this, but the above worked for me.
Good luck mate
Last edited by Meallbhan; 24 October 2008 at 05:38 PM.
24 October 2008, 06:35 PM
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No worries mate, sounds scary but its not hard. Mine was a pig cos the rear bolts had seized. I got a garage to loosen them then I could carry on. Managed to get the front done then a week later finished the rears. The car felt a bit strange inbetween!
25 October 2008, 02:00 PM
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8 - Undo the big nut at the top of the strut (inside the top mount). I had to put the 6mm Allen key into the top of the piston to hold it from turning, then grip the socket (19mm I think) with the mole grips to undo. Seemed really awkward and I'm sure there must be a better way of doing this, but it worked for me. Take the nut off with the top mount assembly making sure you remember the order they came off in. Remove the spring with the compressors still on. This is important as you don't want a spring in your face!
Good write up btw
26 October 2008, 12:06 PM
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Aye boy, had to watch the corners incase the rear end overtook me! The only problem you should get would be the bottom bolts being seized, they're the ones that collect all the salt etc from the road. You could soak them with WD40 a few days in advance. A garage would probably charge you 4 - 5 hours labour to do the job. Depends if you want to fork out though. If you have a mate that could help you it's definately worth doing it yourself.
26 October 2008, 04:12 PM
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fwiw, not sure if its a longer job replacing springs, but i've just had a set of coilovers and anti lift kit fitted with full lazer geometry for £280 inc vat!
I thought this was a very good price for 2 people and 4 hours.
p.s i provided the coilovers and anti lift
Aaron
I thought this was a very good price for 2 people and 4 hours.
p.s i provided the coilovers and anti lift
Aaron
26 October 2008, 06:01 PM
#27
i have a mate whos a mechanic thinking about it .......
my local garage will charge 3 hours labour
can I alter the camber myself when putting it back together and if so how much?? just wondering if I can adjust the camber bolts myself or do you need a special tool? this will do temporary until I get a pro setup
my local garage will charge 3 hours labour
can I alter the camber myself when putting it back together and if so how much?? just wondering if I can adjust the camber bolts myself or do you need a special tool? this will do temporary until I get a pro setup
Last edited by IainMilford; 26 October 2008 at 06:04 PM.
29 December 2008, 04:45 PM
#28
teins now sat in my workshop, still just need to convince my mate its a good idea. ... also had to bump this thread back up for the write up ... !!
question - how long should you let the car sit on the springs before getting a geo setup ??
thanks chaps
question - how long should you let the car sit on the springs before getting a geo setup ??
thanks chaps
30 December 2008, 05:30 PM
#29
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If you are careful when you take out the front 2 bottom bolts and replace them as near as you can to how they came out (1 on each side camber adjusting), I ran mine for 2 month and was fine.
I always thought it was good to let new springs etc bed in before any adjustments are made.
Are you using the standard shocks? Reason I ask is that my car has done 41k miles and the front shock had burst, so replaced the 2 when I changed the springs. The rears were fine, but then 2 months down the line one of them burst too. Oil everywhere. Should have done them all at the same time cos it would have saved a bit of hassle. Never mind, did the 2 rears a couple of days ago and took only 40 mins in total for both sides, can't complain!