whiteline gear
#1
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whiteline gear
guys
was looking at getting a Rear ARB, Rear alloy Drop links and an ALK for a 99 uk turbo
first question which size Anti roll bar do i need?
and second how easy is this all to fit?
i am ok with a tool kit replaced bumpers etc but not really done any suspension bits b4. does anyone have a DIY guide or link to any web pages or pages on here with a step by step fitting guide etc
any help would be great
thanks
steve
was looking at getting a Rear ARB, Rear alloy Drop links and an ALK for a 99 uk turbo
first question which size Anti roll bar do i need?
and second how easy is this all to fit?
i am ok with a tool kit replaced bumpers etc but not really done any suspension bits b4. does anyone have a DIY guide or link to any web pages or pages on here with a step by step fitting guide etc
any help would be great
thanks
steve
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this is a good question mate,,,and its been on here about 10 times in the last few months
im getting mine done at the weekend (saturday)
front roll bar
rear roll bar
anti lift kit
rear drop links
my macanic says 24 front and 22 rear
but people on here say 22front and 24 rear
im going with my man on what he says, as he is very well known in the subaru world and drives a rally tarmac subaru and has tryed all diff set ups
ill let you know sunday as im off on a good run with the lads
stu
im getting mine done at the weekend (saturday)
front roll bar
rear roll bar
anti lift kit
rear drop links
my macanic says 24 front and 22 rear
but people on here say 22front and 24 rear
im going with my man on what he says, as he is very well known in the subaru world and drives a rally tarmac subaru and has tryed all diff set ups
ill let you know sunday as im off on a good run with the lads
stu
#3
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i'm no expert but 24mm for rear seems alot - if a road car.
steve, i'm getting the exact same as you, rear drops, rear ARB 22mm adjustable and an ALK, all for a MY99. however, you do not know until you try (or so they say), it's all meant to be down to personal feel and preference.
when you were a kid, was there a right way to have your seat and handle bars adjusted on your bike?? or was it down to what was right for you?
steve, i'm getting the exact same as you, rear drops, rear ARB 22mm adjustable and an ALK, all for a MY99. however, you do not know until you try (or so they say), it's all meant to be down to personal feel and preference.
when you were a kid, was there a right way to have your seat and handle bars adjusted on your bike?? or was it down to what was right for you?
#4
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Hour and a quarter if you don't have any seized bolts...
Easy job if you buy the drop-links... as they come with new bolts to replace the ones that will snap when you remove the old droppers....
My new-age has a 24mm rear (medium for the road) max for track....
Get 911 to PM you with his details....
DunxC
Easy job if you buy the drop-links... as they come with new bolts to replace the ones that will snap when you remove the old droppers....
My new-age has a 24mm rear (medium for the road) max for track....
Get 911 to PM you with his details....
DunxC
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had the setup stated above on my p1 just wanted to know if the size af the arb woul dbe different between the two
think it was a 22mm,
can i ask why i should speak to 911 what will he be able to say etc as i dont want to bother him if it is not needed
steve
think it was a 22mm,
can i ask why i should speak to 911 what will he be able to say etc as i dont want to bother him if it is not needed
steve
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911 has alot of experience with this type of set up. He put me in the right direction.
Also the cuso kid seems to be in the know also and sells whiteline bits and bobs.
Hope this helps
Also the cuso kid seems to be in the know also and sells whiteline bits and bobs.
Hope this helps
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is it better to do both the front and rear?
as i thought it helped to do th erear to reduce the understeer that the impreza suffers from, so by doing both infact you just bring it back?
or am i off the ball here?
as i thought it helped to do th erear to reduce the understeer that the impreza suffers from, so by doing both infact you just bring it back?
or am i off the ball here?
#9
One of the ways to reduce/rid the Impreza of understeer is to add a lot of front caster to the suspension. The famous ALK from Whiteline goes a little towards this goal, and adjustable top mounts goes a very very long way to achieving the holy grail of zero understeer.
Ther roll bar stabilise the car to corner flatter so allowing the suspension good control of how it presents the outside tyres to the road.
The choise of roll bars is important in this endeavour and also to how easy the car is to handle, ie Control by the driver.
Some people love a neutral car (me) and some a rear drive 'Ecsort MkII' drive.
Fortunatly, the bars to allow a full adjustment is available to us.
In my 5 years of hillclimb racing with the Sti I've tried a lot of stuff, so 'normal' and some unusual....
If you want to get into the guts of the Impreza chassis rather than tickle it then IMHO:
Whiteline:
22mm front bar + 24mm adjustable bar and steel rear links (steel fronts if you have plastic ones too)
Camber bolts at each corner
ALK
Good tyres and right pressures
A good alignment technician who knows what works (for your application/style).
The will to try different settings on the rear bar and tyre pressures to get you comfortably in control.
You will have a blast as this is the Sti/RA etc you thought Subaru had made (should have made) in the first place.
That might possibly be enough for you.
If you are sad and need more-more-more (me) then you can really get to grips with it and add: (note: your investment has not been wasted)
Decent coil-overs with the RIGHT spring rates. Note that comment!
Adjustable top mounts
Quick ratio steering rack (you might have it already) and poly mountings
Poly bushed suspension, ie no rubber anywhere
Lower front brace and rear diff/subframe lock kits
A lower seat position and preferably a deep racing seat (massive difference)
Really good tyres that do not last long (ie Kumho V70's) but STICK
Back to the same alignment technician for a far more radical approach.
Be very ready to try lots of adjustments to hone all the parts.
You will be truely astonished now and should be looking for a race track close to you to fully exploit the car.
Such a car can be confortably driven on the road.
The car will be SLOWER on rough B roads than the stock Impreza and murder one on A/Track conditions.
There is roughly £2000 between the above options.
Here we go in the wet:
DropShots.com
and dry:
DropShots.com
Note how flat the car is, lack of understeer and I didn't fall off!
First video show lack of traction loosing me so much time. A dccd conversion fixed that!
Second vid resulted in a Class win and class hill record with a puny 370 bhp.
Understeer and oversteeer slow you down.
Smooth is fastest.
Hope this helps.
911
Ther roll bar stabilise the car to corner flatter so allowing the suspension good control of how it presents the outside tyres to the road.
The choise of roll bars is important in this endeavour and also to how easy the car is to handle, ie Control by the driver.
Some people love a neutral car (me) and some a rear drive 'Ecsort MkII' drive.
Fortunatly, the bars to allow a full adjustment is available to us.
In my 5 years of hillclimb racing with the Sti I've tried a lot of stuff, so 'normal' and some unusual....
If you want to get into the guts of the Impreza chassis rather than tickle it then IMHO:
Whiteline:
22mm front bar + 24mm adjustable bar and steel rear links (steel fronts if you have plastic ones too)
Camber bolts at each corner
ALK
Good tyres and right pressures
A good alignment technician who knows what works (for your application/style).
The will to try different settings on the rear bar and tyre pressures to get you comfortably in control.
You will have a blast as this is the Sti/RA etc you thought Subaru had made (should have made) in the first place.
That might possibly be enough for you.
If you are sad and need more-more-more (me) then you can really get to grips with it and add: (note: your investment has not been wasted)
Decent coil-overs with the RIGHT spring rates. Note that comment!
Adjustable top mounts
Quick ratio steering rack (you might have it already) and poly mountings
Poly bushed suspension, ie no rubber anywhere
Lower front brace and rear diff/subframe lock kits
A lower seat position and preferably a deep racing seat (massive difference)
Really good tyres that do not last long (ie Kumho V70's) but STICK
Back to the same alignment technician for a far more radical approach.
Be very ready to try lots of adjustments to hone all the parts.
You will be truely astonished now and should be looking for a race track close to you to fully exploit the car.
Such a car can be confortably driven on the road.
The car will be SLOWER on rough B roads than the stock Impreza and murder one on A/Track conditions.
There is roughly £2000 between the above options.
Here we go in the wet:
DropShots.com
and dry:
DropShots.com
Note how flat the car is, lack of understeer and I didn't fall off!
First video show lack of traction loosing me so much time. A dccd conversion fixed that!
Second vid resulted in a Class win and class hill record with a puny 370 bhp.
Understeer and oversteeer slow you down.
Smooth is fastest.
Hope this helps.
911
Last edited by 911; 09 January 2008 at 06:19 PM.
#10
Cheers 911
Just had a Rear 22 fitted yesterday with steel droplinks all whiteline, all i can say is that im very impressed roads to greasy at moment to push the car at all but i can tell its stiffened the rear up tremendously over stock.
A quick question will any topmounts fit the tein basic coilovers?
Thanks
Just had a Rear 22 fitted yesterday with steel droplinks all whiteline, all i can say is that im very impressed roads to greasy at moment to push the car at all but i can tell its stiffened the rear up tremendously over stock.
A quick question will any topmounts fit the tein basic coilovers?
Thanks
#11
Most aftermarket Top mounts will.
Great ones to get are the Noltec ones or the very new Whiteline ones look nice.
Both have the advantage of adding a lot of caster to the front, great for killing understeer and adding a real bite to the front end grip.
Great ones to get are the Noltec ones or the very new Whiteline ones look nice.
Both have the advantage of adding a lot of caster to the front, great for killing understeer and adding a real bite to the front end grip.
#12
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With OE springs (wide ones), is it possible to move the struts back any real amount with adjustable topmounts (forward)?
And will noiselevels shoot up?
/Adam -have mounted W.L. adj. controlarms on real wheels, now almost impossible to loose grip aft, really impressed.
And will noiselevels shoot up?
/Adam -have mounted W.L. adj. controlarms on real wheels, now almost impossible to loose grip aft, really impressed.
#14
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this is a good question mate,,,and its been on here about 10 times in the last few months
im getting mine done at the weekend (saturday)
front roll bar
rear roll bar
anti lift kit
rear drop links
my macanic says 24 front and 22 rear
but people on here say 22front and 24 rear
im going with my man on what he says, as he is very well known in the subaru world and drives a rally tarmac subaru and has tryed all diff set ups
ill let you know sunday as im off on a good run with the lads
stu
im getting mine done at the weekend (saturday)
front roll bar
rear roll bar
anti lift kit
rear drop links
my macanic says 24 front and 22 rear
but people on here say 22front and 24 rear
im going with my man on what he says, as he is very well known in the subaru world and drives a rally tarmac subaru and has tryed all diff set ups
ill let you know sunday as im off on a good run with the lads
stu
just got the car back ,,well about 1 ish,,been for a quick blast and this set ups nice for my car,,dont know if its coz iv got dccd on my type r,,,but it handles very well
cant wait till tomorrow so i can giveita bit ,round north yorkshire with the lads/lasses
stu
ps,, A BIG THANKS TO HOWARD AT HDC FOR ALL THE WORK AND ADVICE
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