Front ARB Fitting
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From: Littlehampton
Hi I recently bought a set of Eibach f & R ARBs from Larkspeed for £199 which I thought was a pretty good deal now it's time to fit them. I have a copy of the Subaru Service Manual for my car (2002 WRX - Bugeye) but no instructions came with the bars - the rear seems simple enough and yes I will be getting some uprated drop links (wire Whitelines probably). Its the front I am a little worried about - do I really have to remove the front U beam and when I do do I need to support anything i.e gear box or engine? Is it as simple as unbolting it from the underside of the car?
Also what grease/lube should I use in the new ARB Bushes?
I have 'wire' front drop links with ball joints top and bottom should I replace these and if so what with?
Also what grease/lube should I use in the new ARB Bushes?
I have 'wire' front drop links with ball joints top and bottom should I replace these and if so what with?
1
Ask Larkspeed for help on the front. My car is the Classic shape and you have to remove the jack plate that is across the front cross member. New age is different.
2
The bars/bushes IMHO should have come with the correct grease that resists migration over time out of the bush.
Use a good moly grease or silicon if you have to.
3
The ball/wire/ball links for the front are perfectly ok, just look naff.
Be sure the hole diameter in the bar is the same as the shaft diameter of the link ball joint.
Ask Larkspeed for help on the front. My car is the Classic shape and you have to remove the jack plate that is across the front cross member. New age is different.
2
The bars/bushes IMHO should have come with the correct grease that resists migration over time out of the bush.
Use a good moly grease or silicon if you have to.
3
The ball/wire/ball links for the front are perfectly ok, just look naff.
Be sure the hole diameter in the bar is the same as the shaft diameter of the link ball joint.
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From: S E London........ 555 Wagon Sqn
The front ARB can be removed without taking off the front u beam but one of the nuts that holds the bracket is very awkward to get to as you cannot get a socket on it and its very tight with a spanner, can be done but time consuming
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From: Littlehampton
Was going to attempt this today but the missus car is in there and she's buggered off with the keys.... Now how hard is it to break into a Ford?!
Now once I've fitted all this I want a good fast road set-up on the geometry I've searched the forums and online and think that these are the prodrive settings for a newage (2002 Bugeye) WRX am I right?
Prodrive Settings
Front camber -1°15’ (-1.25°)
Front toe total 0°00’ (0.00°)
Rear toe 0°06’ (0.1°) per wheel toe in [0°12’ (0.2°) total toe in]
Note: sometimes the front camber figure isn't achievable in which case set it to max. negative equal.
And will this be OK on Std springs (can't stretch to the Eibachs yet!).
Now once I've fitted all this I want a good fast road set-up on the geometry I've searched the forums and online and think that these are the prodrive settings for a newage (2002 Bugeye) WRX am I right?
Prodrive Settings
Front camber -1°15’ (-1.25°)
Front toe total 0°00’ (0.00°)
Rear toe 0°06’ (0.1°) per wheel toe in [0°12’ (0.2°) total toe in]
Note: sometimes the front camber figure isn't achievable in which case set it to max. negative equal.
And will this be OK on Std springs (can't stretch to the Eibachs yet!).
Last edited by BlueBugEye; Jan 4, 2008 at 09:54 AM. Reason: Forgot to finish!
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