bob r

iTrader: (46)

The rear was a doddle. It took about 45 mins in total, all done on the floor without ramps etc.

Now the front...................was a bit of a "£$%^&!. After finally locating the thing under the plastic engine guard, my initial thoughts were....."I'm sending it back" but then I got to work.
The mounting bolts are located in a very annoying place and one of the nuts would't budge and I rounded the tw*t off, so out came the trusty nut splitter which did the trick. (phew)
Next problem..........."how does the thing come out"? no matter which way I tried the thing didn't want to come out, so a quick call to Powerstation who stated the obvious "just remove the center plate"....marvelous, out it came.

Powerstation also advised me if the bar is put on the wrong way round, it can rub against a steering component which trashes something, I can't remember what exactly, but it got me thinking.

I refitted the front ARB (with the wording "Whiteline" the correct way up as stated) and put it all back together.

Now I only took the car around the block but I could hear a very faint rubbing now I'm paranoid I have put it in the wrong way around.

Any thoughts/advice on this rubbing sound? I have looked underneath and nothing appears to be catching.

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

Could just be the rubber bushes around the ARB... did you grease these?

Tony.

bob r

iTrader: (46)

I used all the grease provided around the bushes/bar and mountings.
Does the ARB slide/move as you turn the wheel?

bob r

iTrader: (46)

I took the car out for a brief drive today. The roads were slightly damp in places and perhaps a little slippy.
After reading so many positive remarks about uprated ARB's, after the first drive I am slightly concerned. The rear does feel like it corners flatter but after some acceleration exiting a small bend, I found myself turning the wheel a little quickly to avoid saying hello to the rear end, something I have not experienced in the past . I feel like the mods were a waste of time, or more to the point, made the handing crap.

Should I be making changes to the rear ARB? (harder setting).

911

It should look like the one in the picture for the front. If it is on upside down, then it can rub on the steering arm.....not good.

Sounds to me you have the rear bar on the 'hard' setting hole. Move them back to the hole right at the end of the bar, softest, and things will be much better. When it is dry you will find the middle hole to be rather good!

The bars do take a bit of getting used to, hence the Whiteline instructions to take care for some miles to familiarise yourself with the new attitude.

bob r

iTrader: (46)

911, I was rather hoping you would respond.

Looking at your photo, mine looks the same (from memory) and prior to refitting the engine guard I checked all around the bar and nothing appeared to be rubbing, so I am fairly confident it is fiited the right way round. Is there any definite way to tell?

The rear is fitted on the middle settings already, and the front is not adjustable (both 22mm) I took advice from Powerstation on these bars, but I am sure I asked for adjustable front and rear.

cusco kid

you should have fitted a 24mm rear and 22mm front your the first guy that i have heard saying that the handling is not good .i have set up many classics and newage and rally /track cars with brilliant results qu did you fit alloy d/links with the bars m8

cusco kid

911

I'm with Geo.

22 Fr/24 Rr with the rear on middle hole will give great results.

I have tried several combinations over the last 4 years:
Stock / 22 rear = 'ok'
22 F/ 24 R = bloody great. Hard hole rear = scarey in the wet, ok in the dry, but middle works everywhere.
27! front/24 rear on hard hole, = not too bad oddly enough but not so sure footed as 22/24.

There will always be a few who swear other combinations are better, and that is down to what you want. I need a car that will change direction bloody fast without hero oversteer and without speed sapping understeer.

22/24 did it.

911

I'm with Geo.

22 Fr/24 Rr with the rear on middle hole will give great results.

I have tried several combinations over the last 4 years:
Stock / 22 rear = 'ok'
22 F/ 24 R = bloody great. Hard hole rear = scarey in the wet, ok in the dry, but middle works everywhere.
27! front/24 rear on hard hole, = not too bad oddly enough but not so sure footed as 22/24.

There will always be a few who swear other combinations are better, and that is down to what you want. I need a car that will change direction bloody fast without hero oversteer and without speed sapping understeer.

22/24 did it.

bob r

iTrader: (46)

After taking advice off people on hear, I asked Powerstation for their advice who recommended the above bars. I was advised that the rear 24mm was more for track use and the 22mm is ample and the front should be 22mm also as the standard front isn't quite man enough. Surely they can't get it wrong?

911 is suggesting that the rear maybe set too hard......(when it is on the middle setting) then why go for a 24mm?

I also have the Whiteline solid droplinks on the rear and the fronts are the oe balljoint type.

911

A lot is down to how the car feels to you. I think you will have many with a 22 or 24 rear only and swear it is a revelation on the road.
Similarly, the 22.24 combination.

This is why I have experimented so much with my car/chassis. It is the only way to be sure what is right for yourself.

I know Powerstation well, they have done lots of alignment on my road/race Impreza and are good people.

As a thought, everyone I know well with an Impreza who really do drive then hard in actual competition (5 people) all have 22/24 Whiteline bars. They are all road driven too.

Incidentally: have you had the car re-aligned to compliment the bars?

vindaloo

We've been having various discussions in the office today about how bad/slippery the roads are at the moment. It's unfortunate but I can't think of a worse time to try out handling mods. (other than your actual snowing/thawing situation).

I'd back off the rear bar for now and try to regain confidence in the car's attitude. Other than that all you can do is wait for it to dry out or warm up a tad.

J.

jd5217

what about the 22 rear bar on shortest hole?

bob r

iTrader: (46)

To make matters even worse on the way home from work this evening I took a fairly sharp corner at 20mph (purposely) and the car continued straight towards the kerb which wasn't a nice feeling. (and this has never happened before, not in this car anyway)

To add to the comments above, I know the roads are very slippy at the moment thats why I am not pushing it, but I would have confidently driven it harder before the bars were fitted, than I am at the moment.

Perhaps it is just down to the current climate and me, adjusting my driving, but I ain't happy.

I have not had the alignment readjusted either. I didn't think it needed it as I haven't touched the track rods. (surely everybody that does this simple mod at home doesn't go out and have realignment done).

Thanks for any input.

cusco kid

hi m8 what tyres are u using what pressures what spring set up standard or lowered m8 geo

bob r

iTrader: (46)

Pirreli P Zero 225 40 18 (unknown pressue)
Tein S Tech springs


Personally I don't think any of the above really matters as prior to fitting the ARB's, the car's handling was fine, never had an issue at all, but now I do, I think.

....and before anyone says, if it was fine then why change it............I just wanted to improve on what was already there and make driving safer.

1. It is either a combination of the road conditions and getting used to the new ARB's

or

2. I have fitted the front ARB the wrong way round, although I cannot tell unless I remove it and try it the other way around. A job for the weekend perhaps.

Thanks again.

bob r

iTrader: (46)

From my understanding the middle hole on the rear bar is the same as a 1 hole 22mm bar, therefore the front being non adjustable (1 hole bar)and my rear bar being on the middle setting should mean that the whole of the car just remains flatter when cornering without a major difference in understear or overstear which I now seem to be getting.

911

My point about alignment is maybe the car is not set at it's best esp if it is still on the crudly set factory settings?
Once set-up, my hillclimb Sti has had all manner of roll bar changes searching for the best (for me) balance.

The alignment is the foundation stone.

bob r

iTrader: (46)

The alignment was done 5 months ago. (cost me £150.00)

cusco kid

look at my post with photos and 911 photos look how the bar sits and make it the same on your car or check if its the same on yours m8
possibly your base settings on your alignment are way out, now the arbs are showing how far it is requiring adjustment. i cant understand these problems your having

cusco kid

try this//// first remove the front arb, refit the old one ,you have done it before it should be a doddle now set the rear drop link to middle setting CHECK THAT YOU HAVE A 24 MM AND NOT A 27mm bar by mistake easy way to check is to measure the bar or drop off the bracket to body and look at the bush it will say 22-24 or 27 on the top surface if thats ok now go out and drive the car esp roundabouts and tight corners watching your speed see how the car handles by moving from a 19mm bar to a 24mm bar you have increased roll centre stiffness by 155% this will tighten up your front end give you more positive steering what is your ride height measure from centre of road wheel to tpo of wheel arch all 4 wheels and post back geo

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

Maybe the ARBs are highlighting how bad the Tein springs are.... not sure if you read the link i put on another spring thread to NASIOC and their thoughts on Tein S Techs.

Tony.

dunx

iTrader: (3)

Could it be the springs, I'm running std shocks and springs with full pile of Whiteline bits inc ALK, on R888's the grip in the wet is phenomenal....

BUT it doesn't like painted white-lines in the wet.... Ironically !

DunxC

bob r

iTrader: (46)

I am aware of the post, and I would be devastated if the Tein's are that bad, although on my Bugeye they were great and on this car they were even better, before I fitted the ARB's.

I have come to the conclusion that it is silly for me to push the car in the current conditions anyway and as I rarely pushed the car hard around corners etc I have not really been fully aware of the cars capabilities so I will await better weather and then re-evaluate.

bob r

iTrader: (46)

I've had a thought.................

The rear was done with the road wheels on the ground as recommended.....you know what's coming next..........

The front, being lowered and with a splitter and me not having a pit or ramp access, was done with the car on axle stands (not recommended)
Could this effect the geometry and front ARB performance when being driven and if so whats the best fix?

911

Do you mean the alignment?
If so, not the best way to do things!

bob r

iTrader: (46)

No, I am refering to the fitting of the ARB's.

bob r

iTrader: (46)

How easy/hard is it to actually fit the front ARB upside down. It doesn't look like it could be fitted upside down anyhow.

dunx

iTrader: (3)

Apart from rubbing/clearance issues.... the bar works in torsion, so SHOULD function correctly, as long as it's not hitting anything.

With just a rear bar on, my car felt superb and a little loose at the rear (Nice !)
With the front bar added the grip just went up from 10 to 11 (Spinal Tap style), and this calmed the rear end down.

Agree about the weather tho'.... 4-wheel drifting in a Jeep yesterday EK !
Tank slapper in mine on the way home.

DunxC