So....I fitted the Eibach springs with KYB CLIMB GEAR Dampers....
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So....I fitted the Eibach springs with KYB CLIMB GEAR Dampers....
I finally swap the bouncy/hard springs (STi V3) for a set of Eibach
(£141 delievered from Roadrunners in Nottingham, great service BTW)
While I was a it, I finally got to see the make of my dampers, they are KYB GEAR CLIMB (New SR Special) which I have never seen or read anything about here in SN, they are in good condition but still wander what the damping rate would be....
The difference is noticeable, IE. I am no longer bouncing around as much as I used to...still have to try them more, I have only driven 20 miles.
The main question of this post is what sort of Aligment/Tracking settings should I use? I use the car for the city with the occational long distance trip and no track days....
I have seen some many different settings, with max camber which I am terrify of using as the inner side of the tyres my wear quicker, with camber bolts, without them, with 1mm or 0mm or 2mm or Toe, with bump steer removal, Prodrive, Whiteline.....ahhhhhhgggg the list goes on.....I just want a nice setup and get the best out of my standarish suspension and wheels.
Everything else is standard, so what is adjustable and what is not?
Your comments and ideas are greatly appreciated!
cheers
Koji
(£141 delievered from Roadrunners in Nottingham, great service BTW)
While I was a it, I finally got to see the make of my dampers, they are KYB GEAR CLIMB (New SR Special) which I have never seen or read anything about here in SN, they are in good condition but still wander what the damping rate would be....
The difference is noticeable, IE. I am no longer bouncing around as much as I used to...still have to try them more, I have only driven 20 miles.
The main question of this post is what sort of Aligment/Tracking settings should I use? I use the car for the city with the occational long distance trip and no track days....
I have seen some many different settings, with max camber which I am terrify of using as the inner side of the tyres my wear quicker, with camber bolts, without them, with 1mm or 0mm or 2mm or Toe, with bump steer removal, Prodrive, Whiteline.....ahhhhhhgggg the list goes on.....I just want a nice setup and get the best out of my standarish suspension and wheels.
Everything else is standard, so what is adjustable and what is not?
Your comments and ideas are greatly appreciated!
cheers
Koji
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Removing the bump steer requires specialist tools and the knowledge to use them
As a starting point try running the front and rears with zero toe, the rear camber is none adjustable unless you were to fit camber bolts if you do run the camber bolts run the front and rears with approximately 1degree of negative camber per side.
The toe angle will have a massive effect on the cars handling characteristics so should be tailored to suit your driving style.
As a starting point try running the front and rears with zero toe, the rear camber is none adjustable unless you were to fit camber bolts if you do run the camber bolts run the front and rears with approximately 1degree of negative camber per side.
The toe angle will have a massive effect on the cars handling characteristics so should be tailored to suit your driving style.
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Great, thanks for that post Mocom Racing, I am thinking to put some camber bolts in the rear.
How would the tyre wear be affected by having 1 degreee negative camber on fronts and rears?
cheers
Koji
How would the tyre wear be affected by having 1 degreee negative camber on fronts and rears?
cheers
Koji
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Tyre wear would be minimal on general driving although this does depend on your driving style, you may find you'll need to run more camber with your roads and minimal traffic
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Mocom, Thanks again for that again.... roads a bad here in Aberdeen; not too sure about the minimal traffic at peak times
I tend to take my bends....fast! Will try -1.25 degrees +/- (if I can get them) and see how it goes...
cheers
I tend to take my bends....fast! Will try -1.25 degrees +/- (if I can get them) and see how it goes...
cheers
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That'd be a good place to start
By far and away best suspension modification on a classic is a large increase in castor angle, ALK with give approximately 0.5degree change and Noltec adjustable top mounts can give a 2 degree increase .
Increasing the castor angle allows you to run less static camber lowering the risk of premature tyre wear.
By far and away best suspension modification on a classic is a large increase in castor angle, ALK with give approximately 0.5degree change and Noltec adjustable top mounts can give a 2 degree increase .
Increasing the castor angle allows you to run less static camber lowering the risk of premature tyre wear.
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