Reducing body roll...
#1
Reducing body roll...
Hi,
What is the best setup to reduce body roll in a 2007 WRX wagon? The car is standard at the moment.
Coming from a modified 205 gti (Bilstein dampers, -25mm SBC springs, uprated anti-roll and torsion bars, rear negative camber kit), I don't like the body roll of the impreza.
Although the grip is very good and the car is very progressive at the limit I would like to do something to stiffen the suspension a bit without making it untolerable (the 205 is sometimes tiring in town specially on roads with pot holes)
Will the prodrive springs help or should I change the shock absorbers and/or anti roll bars?
What are your experiences with coilovers (AST, Tein etc)? Are they too stiff for a daily car? My mate has fitted Bilstein PSS9 coilovers on his E46 M3 and the comfort has not been sacrificed, it may be even better!
I want the car to still be able to carry 4 people with luggage if required without the fear of scraping or the wheels rubbing on the wheel arches.
Bear in mind mediterannean roads are not as good as british ones too!
Thanks for your help,
What is the best setup to reduce body roll in a 2007 WRX wagon? The car is standard at the moment.
Coming from a modified 205 gti (Bilstein dampers, -25mm SBC springs, uprated anti-roll and torsion bars, rear negative camber kit), I don't like the body roll of the impreza.
Although the grip is very good and the car is very progressive at the limit I would like to do something to stiffen the suspension a bit without making it untolerable (the 205 is sometimes tiring in town specially on roads with pot holes)
Will the prodrive springs help or should I change the shock absorbers and/or anti roll bars?
What are your experiences with coilovers (AST, Tein etc)? Are they too stiff for a daily car? My mate has fitted Bilstein PSS9 coilovers on his E46 M3 and the comfort has not been sacrificed, it may be even better!
I want the car to still be able to carry 4 people with luggage if required without the fear of scraping or the wheels rubbing on the wheel arches.
Bear in mind mediterannean roads are not as good as british ones too!
Thanks for your help,
Last edited by fpan; 21 April 2007 at 10:36 PM.
#2
Scooby Regular
Start with the Whiteline 22mm adjustable rear ARB and some solid (steel for 45, alloy for 80+ and no perceivable difference) droplinks. If you have a smooth driving style then set it at the stiffest setting, if you use a lot of braking and have frequent moments then the middle may be for you. My style is very smooth and I wish I'd got the 24mm bar. See how you like that for IRO 200 quid all in and a DIY job and then decide if you need to go further. The next step would be some Eibach or Prodrive springs. The Prodrive are universally regarded as better, but are a few quid more. If funds allow then go the whole hog and look at AST's. I had them and they were awesome. Kept them on 2's around town and the ride was comfortable, 4's in the wet on a run and 6's in the dry. On track I tried 9F/8R but it was twitchy and nervous on a tight circuit and compromised at 8/7 for the day. The adjustability was a real benefit, and unlike most I used it. Many just buy the kit, set it how they like it in the dry and never adjust it thereafter, so they may as well have fixed rate, and it's amazing how many just leave them on what the installers advise. I have no experience of Tein or Bilstein, apart from a mate with an Evo who's just fitted Teins with the electronic controller and he's thrilled with them.
#3
Thanks for the advice corradoboy.
What about the front ARB? Should it not be changed to match the rear?
Also are there any droplinks at the front?
Sorry I'm new to subarus...
Where can I order the parts from? Does ride quality worsen a lot by changing the ARB?
What about the front ARB? Should it not be changed to match the rear?
Also are there any droplinks at the front?
Sorry I'm new to subarus...
Where can I order the parts from? Does ride quality worsen a lot by changing the ARB?
#4
Scooby Regular
Ride will remain the same as the ARB is only brought into use by torsional rotation during roll in corners. Stiffening the front ARB often has a detremental effect on the gains made by fitting the rear one depending on your geo set-up and the rest of your chassis components. There are links to the front but the gains in changing them are less than the plastic rears. You may need ball jointed fronts depending on what set-up your car has.
#5
IMHO i would add 3 more things to the listing/advice above.
1
If fitting the great AST's have some adjustable top mounts fitted at least to the front.
You will increase the caster and remove much/all of the understeer.
2
Find a very good alignment technician who knows what he is doing.
3
Talk to Power Station (I'm assuming you are in the UK) and get the lot done in one day.
The car will be transformed beyond belief.
You can go a little further with the changes to take advantage of the basic changes you may make, but these would be more for squeezing the last drop on track.
After 4 years with this subject I think I've done enough!
Graham.
1
If fitting the great AST's have some adjustable top mounts fitted at least to the front.
You will increase the caster and remove much/all of the understeer.
2
Find a very good alignment technician who knows what he is doing.
3
Talk to Power Station (I'm assuming you are in the UK) and get the lot done in one day.
The car will be transformed beyond belief.
You can go a little further with the changes to take advantage of the basic changes you may make, but these would be more for squeezing the last drop on track.
After 4 years with this subject I think I've done enough!
Graham.
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