miltski

had these for months ad as the car is slightly pulling to the left and needs the wheels aligned i thought i might as well get these on then get the alignment sorted.

is it a case of, shocks out, old topmounts off, new ones on, set the canberr to 0 both sides ten put back in and alignment done, or is their anything else i need to do, ultimately i would like the camber put in about 1 degrees so shall i do that when fitting?
also this may sound stupid but they have right and left printed on them, can i assume they only go on one way, and that the "r" is on the right when looking at the car from the front?

cheers

scoobboy

iTrader: (3)

Would have thought the car will be like a rock and far too stiff with HKS top mounts on, i take it you have HKS Coilovers to go with these?

Unless its for track use only and not road use

miltski

nope and nope unfortunately, but will eventually be track only if i don't sell it soon, i just went out and hada look, they go on anyway round, so i assume that they will be adjustable more intowards the bulkhead than out?

i also guess that anyone with fillings will feel the effects if they go in the car?



cheers for the reply

911

Fitting is as you say, old out/new in.

The Lt/Rt will refer to the driver position, so if your car is RHD, then the rt is on that side.
The marks on the top are for guidance only. They are not a calibrated position at all.
Set them to Zero both sides.
The actual alignment will depend on the position of the strut Camber Bolts, and these can be anywhere in thier adjustment range.

You need to put them on and get the whole car aligned properly asap.

Sometimes you can put the Left unit in the right side and the Right unit in the left. This can on some Jap designs allow a much greater CASTER angle to be gained.
It is caster that will rid the car of understeer.

Any competant alignment technician can sort all this for you.

If the top mounts have ball bearing tops then you may notice a little more harshness, but if they rattle over the road then they are loose(!) or knackered.

If the car is rock hard on the road and the dampers set to max soft then the springs are possibly too stiff, a common Jap traite.

Good luck.
Graham

doug2507

iTrader: (6)

I'll take a pic of the ones fitted on mine if it helps? Pretty sure Graham is right and the one stamped R goes on the drivers side. The top mounts should have no real effect on the stiffness of the suspension.

miltski

cheers guys i can get the car setup about 2 miles from my house, so will set both marks to zero then "crab" my way down there!

pics would be great, the topmounts are two way adjustable not the newer fully adjustable.

doug2507

iTrader: (6)

pics arent on my photobucket account but i can verify that the 'r' defo goes on the drivers side and vice versa. The point with the stamp facing the outside of the car.

miltski

got them on today, **** in the cold but only managed to cut one knuckle!
the car seems higher now at the front, i've checked that the springs are sittign correct and taken the car out for a quick drive round the block. heard both springs pop into place but i think the car is still sitting higher, looking at the wheels when they were of they were worn on the OUTSIDE by about an inch both wheels, so a good setup will help the handling of the car, will hopefully get that done tomorrow,they look nice in the engine bay, and although i've only been round the block i haven't noticed the ride being any harsher.
one more thing, the springs on the car are a dark green, are all springs this colour or are they not original ones?

911

My AST springs are dove grey with the rating printed on them.
My springs on my crappy AVO's were black with ratings printed on them.

I don't think the colour of the springs should be any guide, just what is printed on them! (and the units used for the values!)

Good luck!
Graham

Andy916

iTrader: (8)

In terms of comfort I'm only really aware of my D2 solid topmounts (front and rear) on a motorway cruise, where they allow a bit more noise through.

Fronts have a graduated slot which is positioned such that imaginary lines though each would meet approx in the middle of the cabin. I got the road setup done for middle of the range (1.5deg camber, nearly zero toe, the latter of which isn't to everyone's taste). On trackdays I re-set to full rearward for extra camber and extra caster. Improves turn-in during back-to-back testing, but wears the inside of the tyres if you leave it like that for eg 1k miles on the road. Thinking about it, you could get the (road) alignnment set up at the fully forward/outward topmount position, to give max adjustment range for trackdays.

Andy