kin quick

iTrader: (2)

Wonder if anyone could give me some advice on the following.....

I have a 52 plate Bugeye WRX with the following mods :-

Eibach springs
Adjustable rear ARB
Solid rear drop links
Solid front drop links (cos the standard ones broke)
Anti-lift kit
18" PFF7's with Goodyear GSD03 225/45/18 with good tread

All Whiteline stuff.

With a geometry setup, will this get rid of my understeer??? Or is there something else I need??? (Can't afford coil-overs).

It's getting annoying now!!

Cheers

Ross

911

IMO:
You need camberbolts in the rear and top mounts that give a BIG increase in caster angle to the front.

Only then will you kill the understeer.

My car does not understeer.
Graham

WRX_Rich

iTrader: (5)

have you not had the geo redone since the anti lift kit was fitted ?

STI_V2

Hi mate,

Like 911 mentioned you will need rear camberbolts. If you can afford topmounts go for it otherwise don't worry it's not a big deal if the car is for road use.

I'm running exactly the same setup but with KYB's and no antilift and the car understeers very rarely.

kin quick

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the replies fella's, have been thinking of camber bolts for a while.

I have spoken to a few Scoob specialists and they all reckon that I shouldn't get virtually any understeer with my setup! It's classed as the best road/track setup before using coilovers!

I've only done a few track days and I had tonnes of understeer, got an instructor to drive it round Snetterton in October and he said it had loads of understeer!!! It spends most of it's life on normal roads, but when I get to a nice big corner or roundabout, it just seems to want to go straight on, getting annoying now, I've tried different driving techniques and let a friend (fellow Scoob owner) have a go and he found the same thing


Rich, I got the geometry sorted a few days after the anti-lift kit, it made a difference but compared to most that I've been in, it still has bundles of understeer!! Going to take it to Leda for a full geometry setup and some advice as it's starting to get on my t1ts

911

If you drive the car hard, then understeer will arrive and very closely a 4 wheel drift/slip/slide.

Drive sensibly and the stock Impreza does not understeer. Drive it on a track and it WILL be cr@p.

For those of us who drive the cars on track hard, I am sure that the basic mods will not eliminate U/Steer.

All depends on what you want.
Coil-overs will not remove understeer, just allow a much better set-up.

you must have a good dose of caster and the RIGHT dose of static neg camber/toe-in.
this is why people go to PowerStation as they know where to dial the chassis in. The camber bolts allow the technician to achieve the right settings, not always the most extreme ones.

Graham.

kin quick

iTrader: (2)

I don't drive the car that hard compared to some, and it dosen't go on track very often (3 times in 3 1/2 years).

It's just getting annoying now, I've done more than alot of people I know but they have virtually no understeer on the road and less than me on track!

I think your right Graham, camber bolts are the way forward for me and then a fair amount of negative "everything"

Will have a word with Leda when I go for a geometry setup and see what they recommend.

Mo

What are your current geometry settings, there's no doubt something to be had here?

frayz

iTrader: (7)

Ross,

You need athe camber bolts and adjustable front topmounts to dial in around 5 deg of caster.
Caster removes the need for alot of static camber, on a road car, camber wears tyres, caster will give you loads more turn in and eliminate understeer.

Gear Head

iTrader: (2)

What tyres are you using?

Gear Head

iTrader: (2)

sorry, just read the top quote.

Matthew

Assuming the geometry is somewhere near correct the setup you have at the moment should be better than standard. Have you tried playing around with the settings on the rear arb? From full soft to full hard on mine makes a tremendous difference - I find full hard is pretty well balanced in the dry, but tail happy on wet roads, full soft still understeers more than I like.

If adjusting the ARB doesn't make a difference for you then maybe changing your driving style could? You don't say where in the corners you get the understeer - if it's on the way in it may be you are just arriving too fast.

A good way to get a feel for the balance is to find a private road with a nice deserted 2nd-3rd gear roundabout and keep going gently faster around it until the car begins to slide - ideally both ends at once. If it still understeers then 911's suggestion of more caster angle is probably best for the road - running lots of camber is great for the corners, but can wear out a set of tyres faster than you would believe.

Matthew

911

You need a real alignment job doing.
Graham

aaronhowe

I was going to say the exact same thing. If you drive over the front of the car all the time then yes you will always get understeer. Try setting the car up and turning before you get to the corner so you clip the apex then power out. This should give you a very neutral feeling car through the corner and even possibely a little bit of oversteer as you power out.
The reason I say this is because I have been in the same situation until a very good ARDS qualified driver showed me the error of my ways. The car now handles supurbly yet I haven't changed anything else on it.
The car has a 24mm rear arb, prodrive springs, solid rear droplinks, powersteering bushes, antilift kit and geometry setup. These mods are more than enough for me on a road going car and I no long get nasty understeer.

cmpequeno

what is the standard arbs diameter on the classic?

DubaiNeil

kin quick,

One slightly cheaper option, which has some effect, is to use the camber bolts in the front, and later you can swap those to the rear when/if you go for adjustable top mounts.

I have -2 degree camber and 0 toe with a similar hardware as yourself (only addition is the front arb from Whiteline, but set on the 'softer' setting) and have a relatively neutral handling car, especially on the road.

With the front ARB on 'stiff' and the rear on 'middle' I still had loads of understeer on the track, changing the front to 'soft' made a huge difference. I have been tempted to try the standard front ARB (which you still have) to see if that makes an improvement.

One caveat I have though, is that I run on the standard 17's on a MY02 bugeye saloon

Fuzz

Although you've not mentioned (or I missed it if you did, it's late ok) your alignment settings.
Lessen understeer by one of the following,
increase rear antiroll bar rate (move the bolt closer to the main cross bar)
decrease the front antiroll bar rate
run negative toe on the rear
Run positive toe on the front.

Andy