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Please explain: Traction lost with rear strutbrace, classic wagon

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Old 23 May 2006, 03:47 AM
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hmhaga
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Question Please explain: Traction lost with rear strutbrace, classic wagon

After installing a Whiteline rear strut brace in my '98 classic wagon, the car struggles to gain traction when cornering. It is most pronounced on uneven surfaces, but even noticable on very smooth surfaces. I could apply throttle A LOT earlier exiting corners without the rear strutbrace, but now I get wheelspin (inner rear wheel).

Why?! I thought the opposite would happen?

Setup is Toyo R888, Whiteline rear+front ARB at max, antilift, suspension poly bushes, KYB AGX at max, Eibach springs.
Old 23 May 2006, 01:01 PM
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911
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I am very very surprised that the rear brace would do this to the car.

Suggest you take it off and check the behaviour again?
Even removing the top mount nuts to fit the brace and replaceing them will not have disturbed the alignment enough to matter (IMHO)

Puzzled from England.
Graham
Old 23 May 2006, 01:19 PM
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terryb
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Maybe try softening the damping on the rear struts. As you have stiffened the rear of the car, softer damping at the rear should give you more grip at the rear.

I think
Old 24 May 2006, 07:43 AM
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JIM THEO
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You probably mean corners where the inside and outside rear wheels are in very different heights thus - due to harder anti roll bar that remove some of the rear suspension "independence" - your car tend to spin the inside wheel!
Only a plated rear differential can help you in such situations as the factory diff works well only with both wheels on the ground!
I have a suretrack rear in my WRX MY04 and I use LFB on tight corners exactly for thisreason.
Jim
Old 24 May 2006, 09:33 AM
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hmhaga
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I think I'll have to readjust the rear suspension settings then, softer rear swaybar and damper settings. I do have a 6MT DCCD gearbox, so combined with a weak R160 LSD diff - I really get traction problems when one of the rear wheels lift from the ground.

The rear strut bar is not the source of the problems then, it only added "the last drop" that made the inherent problems of DCCD+R160 very noticeable.

Oh no...the never ending circle of upgrades ;(
Old 24 May 2006, 12:50 PM
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911
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Why is the r160 and dccd an issue?
The transmission diff ratio's are the same and although the split can be changed I'm sure Subaru will have made sure all combinations are reliable on the dccd with the diff??
Graham
Old 24 May 2006, 01:23 PM
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hmhaga
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As I've understood this, The LSD unit in the R160 differential is too weak compared to the clutch based units sold with DCCD equipped cars? It can't provide enough locking force to prevent one wheel from spinning (pardon my English).

I couldn't get a R160 STI V3 diff when I bought the 6MT conversion from API Engines last year, so I had to rebuild my own (weak) LSD-diff with pinion/crown from a 3.9 unit

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Old 24 May 2006, 06:28 PM
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911
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Your English is perfectly good!
Now I understand you.
Graham
Old 25 May 2006, 12:30 PM
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JIM THEO
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...Or buy an STI plated R160 differential (1 or 1,5 way) that will transform your car especially on winter Norway conditions, but you already know it better from me ah?
Have in mind all torsen like differentials behave the same with the one whell of the ground, no power to the other wheel as the diff multiplies the power from the spinning wheel with a number say 3-4-5 and transfers the appropriate power to the other, when the one has zero power (off the ground) 0x1, x2 etc = always 0!
It applies to Quaife, Suretracs etc
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