Geometry settings
#2
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-1º camber, all round if you can get away with it on the rear, otherwise 0º on the rear, 10' combined front toe in and 2' combined rear toe in. Can go to 1.5º camber is you want/can.
#3
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If you don't care about tyres:-
Rear:
negative 2.25' deg on rear
Toe, Zero
Front:
Camber: negative 2.30' deg
Caster: 5 deg @ 20 deg turn
Toe: Zero
Bump steer: Zero!
From Grahams thread http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=445470
Rear:
negative 2.25' deg on rear
Toe, Zero
Front:
Camber: negative 2.30' deg
Caster: 5 deg @ 20 deg turn
Toe: Zero
Bump steer: Zero!
From Grahams thread http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=445470
#5
Ken's radical setting off my thread are extreme and might frazzle the tyres, BUT, not in my experience tbh.
There is the consideration that i have a number of other mods to the suspension and they all add up to a good blend for road, and especially hill climb tracks.
Should add the settings are for good radial road tyres.(as opposed to racing cross ply slicks)
Graham.
There is the consideration that i have a number of other mods to the suspension and they all add up to a good blend for road, and especially hill climb tracks.
Should add the settings are for good radial road tyres.(as opposed to racing cross ply slicks)
Graham.
Last edited by 911; 02 December 2005 at 06:10 PM.
#7
Try again!
You must set the chassis as a total package, and there are several set-ups by several people that work together.
For fast road car use try the settings above, if you track day the car or drive 'fast' then try the extreme ones. They all work byt the front rear etc must be done as a whole.
My very best results have come from the Powerstation set-up.
Please see my Projects thread 'In search of the Perfect chassis' for all the details (and then some)
Curtis at PS works to a very very fine detail and it definitly shows in the driving I promise.
Graham.
You must set the chassis as a total package, and there are several set-ups by several people that work together.
For fast road car use try the settings above, if you track day the car or drive 'fast' then try the extreme ones. They all work byt the front rear etc must be done as a whole.
My very best results have come from the Powerstation set-up.
Please see my Projects thread 'In search of the Perfect chassis' for all the details (and then some)
Curtis at PS works to a very very fine detail and it definitly shows in the driving I promise.
Graham.
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#9
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iTrader: (4)
Suspension settings are a Pandorah's Box as so much depends on what you have modified and what you actually want out of the car ie good turn in etc. I'm also a sprinter / hillclimber and tyres are considered disposable items ie do whatever it takes to get you up the hill quickest, this isn't the case for a road car. I have used up a set of Avon ZZ3's in 1 season 12 events. I E-Mailed Whiteline and they suggested a starting point as I had so much of their kit on the car, very very helpful people. Front 2.5' neg camb. Zero toe, Rear 1.5' neg camb Zero toe. Car was better on these ( previously had toe front and rear ) though would spin the fronts on a rapid start and tyres are badly worn on the inside so next season will revert to whatever is the max neg camber on the std front camber bolts. Try a seting and if you like it stick to it, I'm still hunting !!. Visit a sprint and ask some of the Guys.
#10
excellent advice!
Bugger the tyres, feel the grip!
This is why I say I go to PowerStation as they have a sweet spot setting for my car (and it's combination). The car is so much quicker and safer.
You can loose a lot in the drag starts but catch-up later:
http://jusspress.com/day.php?userid=...entTime=131625
Graham.
ps: 5300: Loton Park start line.
Bugger the tyres, feel the grip!
This is why I say I go to PowerStation as they have a sweet spot setting for my car (and it's combination). The car is so much quicker and safer.
You can loose a lot in the drag starts but catch-up later:
http://jusspress.com/day.php?userid=...entTime=131625
Graham.
ps: 5300: Loton Park start line.
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