Geometry Settings for STI7
23 October 2005, 09:00 PM
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,272
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Geometry Settings for STI7
Hi,
I've just got my STI7 back after getting eibach springs, whiteline front and rear ARB's droplinks and an anti lift kit fitted, what would be the best geometry settings to get it set upto. I have read a couple of threads about the prodrive, whiteline and Group N settings.
Any suggestions/comments welcome.
Cheers
Scott
I've just got my STI7 back after getting eibach springs, whiteline front and rear ARB's droplinks and an anti lift kit fitted, what would be the best geometry settings to get it set upto. I have read a couple of threads about the prodrive, whiteline and Group N settings.
Any suggestions/comments welcome.
Cheers
Scott
Trending Topics
28 October 2005, 12:52 PM
#8
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: the fastest rentals in town......0-100mph in 10 seconds
Posts: 1,401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Depends how much and where you want oversteer. Corner entry, corner exit??
You should be looking to set the front with as much equal negative camber as possible, usually around -1.5 degrees although this does vary somewhat. Also dial in a little toe-in. This combined with the additional castor from the ALK should give you good turn-in.
You now need to experiment a little with the rear as there are a number of ways to promote oversteer. I'd suggest that you set the rear camber to equal the front and work back from here. Reducing this camber will increase oversteer.
Most shops set the rear with a little toe in to keep things in check however I found I preferred to run the rear parallel (this is on a classic though). I did experiment with toe out which was great in the dry but far too dangerous in the wet, it caught me out time and time again, luckily all experimentation was on track. This is why I say you need to experiment with how the changes feel and if they are right for you; what's great for me may not suit you.
If your rear ARB is adjustable you should also experiment here, increasing the stiffness will increase roll resistance decreasing understeer.
You should be looking to set the front with as much equal negative camber as possible, usually around -1.5 degrees although this does vary somewhat. Also dial in a little toe-in. This combined with the additional castor from the ALK should give you good turn-in.
You now need to experiment a little with the rear as there are a number of ways to promote oversteer. I'd suggest that you set the rear camber to equal the front and work back from here. Reducing this camber will increase oversteer.
Most shops set the rear with a little toe in to keep things in check however I found I preferred to run the rear parallel (this is on a classic though). I did experiment with toe out which was great in the dry but far too dangerous in the wet, it caught me out time and time again, luckily all experimentation was on track. This is why I say you need to experiment with how the changes feel and if they are right for you; what's great for me may not suit you.
If your rear ARB is adjustable you should also experiment here, increasing the stiffness will increase roll resistance decreasing understeer.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
28
28 December 2015 11:07 PM
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
12
18 November 2015 07:03 AM