Carlos13

A trip to Powerstation is probably imminent, but what to go for? I have a classic uk turbo modded up to 275 bhp and want to sort the chassis. I am currently thinking of the following:

1) AST coilovers with the harder track day springs
2) Front and rear ARBs - 20mm front, 22mm adjustable rear?
3) Alignment & bump steer

Is the ALK worth it? Are there any downsides of this mod?

What about top mounts? IIRC the ASTs use the standard top mounts. My car has done 40k miles are my topmounts likely to be tired? If so, what am I recommended to fit instead - replacement OE mounts? Anyone know the cost of topmounts?

My car is used primarily on track, but I don't want to ruin the ride completely, though I am obviously ok with a harder ride.

TIA

911

Good start!
I would forget the ALK and fit the MRT type top mounts, plus camber bolts in each corner.
Have PS do a demon alignment to take full advantage of the combination you will have.
My Hill climb Sti has all the above and some other bits:

AVO coil overs (DO NOT go there)
Whiteline anti roll bars front and rear/solid drop links
Whiteline rear lower radius arms
Full poly bushed suspension including rear subframe locking bolts/poly bushes
MRT top mounts
ALK (too lazy to take them off)
Steering rack poly bushes
Camber bolts
Lower front strut brace
Radical Whiteline geometry
16'' wheels and Kumho V70 semi slicks

It is good around the bends and allows full use of 407 bhp!



Graham.

dazc

Graham, where abouts do you hill climb?
I would love to see your 407bhp go around corners!
Daz

Erik

911
what your advise for me pleas?
Leda 320/275lbs, upper braces front + rear, lower 4 point cuscso, powerflex on front wishbones, MRT bushing and swaybar links and I plan poly steering rack bushing + MRT sport tops. All this makes my car reallly fun, my wife says it too but it still have problem with swaybars.
I cant decide what is best for this Leda...
When pushing car really hard I can feel how my chassis works and swaybars cant cope that. But I have no idea if rear is enough or I need change front too. MRT sell adjustabe front and rear, but I dont know how hard should it be before I get super over or understeered car?
I dont need it for track in my country does not any track so we race on somethig like yours B-roads.
Thanks
Erik

Like this one last weekend: http://www.tuningklub.sk/_tks_item.p...&idc=2&idi=432

911

Erik: Looks like a LOT of fun!
In those conditions I would simply install the normal fixed rate Whiteline front and the 3 position matching rear.
On the track and committed road driving where safe, the Impreza needs good roll control.
I used to hill climb with the rear bar on the hardest setting but suffered from the rear wheel lifting (150mm) in tight bends and loosing traction just when i needed it most...
Changing the position to middle transformed the cars balance under such conditions (tight bends).
For bends as in the pictures I think the middle position would be right, BUT, you need to consider this with geometry and tyre pressures and the tyres in use.

Dasc:
I was at Harewood just 3 weekends ago scaring myself silly as it was my first time there.
I race in the Midlands, ie Prescott (Cheltenham), Shelsley Walsh (Worcester) and Loton Park (Shrewsbury) about 10/12 meetings a year.
Very laid-back sport(suits my age..)

Graham.

Erik

Hehe, sometimes too much fan for i.e. one Hyunday Coupe with blowed airbargs ... its good for skilled drives and damm expensive for weekend drivers.

So you advice leave front OE and go for adjustable rear only?

911

I have not tried that mod. Many here have and are very happy on the road. Worth a try.
I fitted both bars from the start of my mods to the chassis, so only know inimatly this set-up.
Best try it and see, but i trust Whiteline's extensive development work a lot!

Graham.

Erik

OK, thanks I am only hope winter should be ok with hard swaybars we have lot of ice here. Best with 12/10cliks Snow is a problem with no LSD at front no initial turn in and huge oversteer at exit with Leda geometry settings

dazc

Erik,
I have the 22mm Whiteline adjustable rear anti roll bar set on the middle hole and a standard front ARB. I think you will be very happy with this set up, both turn in and stability greatly improved. One of the best things to do.

Graham,
Gutted. Harewood is only a few miles from me and I do go fairly often.
Next time eh?

Daz

Fuzz

Carlos,

AST's sound a good idea mate.
As a mainly track car and the fact your are happy to sacrifice "some" road quality" I'd go for a 22m front and a 24mm rear antiroll bar.

Forget the ALK and go for top mounts (you are right in saying the current AST setup utilises the standard top mounts)
I've used Noltec top mounts on mine, which are movable in both caster and camber directions.
Price wise you're looking at £850+vat for the AST's with trackday spring rates.
£80 for the front antiroll bar
£100 for the rear anti roll bar
about £188 for the top mounts (we dont do them but can get them for you if you want)
The ALK we do is £125+vat as a comparrison.
You need to think about uprated roll bar mounts on the rear when using the 24mm rear bar as it puts more stress into the standard mounts and these are £58+vat.
then there are uprated links too (£38 quid +vat for the steel ones and £60+vat for the funky anodised aluminum ones)

Hope that helps.

Andy

warrenm2

I found the ALK made heavy braking quite interesting! Would recommend top mounts that are adjustable for castor AND camber (the AST / HKS pillowball top mounts only do camber), although bear in mind the MRT raise the ride height 10-15 mm so ideal with height adjustable coilovers