speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

Are these really necessary?

I was trying to set my car to the Prodrive settings (1 degree negative cambler I think) and have been told that it may be possible to achieve this by simply loosening both bolts and moving the hub in the right direction.

If you do fit them, do you have to drill the holes through the hubs to 16mm in diameter and elongate the holes in the struts horizontally?
If you fit smaller adjustable camber bolts than this size I don't see how this would work unless you welded the holes in the struts smaller!?

911

I think you need the correct bolts, ie Whiteline ones.
They give the alignment technician the scope to get the chassis set-up as a whole and spot on.
No need to file/drill/weld etc, just slide in and adjust.

Cheap too!

Graham.

WRXSTU

iTrader: (1)

why not fit whiteline rear controll arms.

and be able to adjust camber and toe at the turn of a spanner.
think i paid about 130 from demon tweeks for all 4 arms.

Fuzz

Struts/arms seem to be different on each car, sometimes you need camber bolts, sometimes you don't.
It's much easier to set up with them in though.

The washer on the smaller camber bolt has a "tang" on it. This locates in the space that was occupied by the full size bolt.
By rotating the "tang" in the hole the bolt will move, basically giving more adjustment than just the eccentric lobe on the bolt.

Aim, for 1 degree 20 minutes

Andy

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the advice guys!

I'll give Demon Tweeks a call tomorrow and order some of the whiteline adjustable bolts (I can't justify paying £130 for the adjustable control arms WRXSTU!)

I see what you mean about 'by rotating the "tang" in the hole the bolt will move, basically giving more adjustment than just the eccentric lobe on the bolt.' after seeing the pics on the whiteline website I can appreciate now how it works. Glad I didn't spend £70 to get the hubs and struts machined which I was quoted!

Now to find somewhere to do the alignment - £67.56 from subaru or £120 from TSL!?

Fuzz

Could try Powerstation
They also have camber bolts in stock!

01684 296675

Mention my name.

Andy

Frank T.

I put in camber bolts on all 4 courners last weekend, easily got neg.1.30 all round, a small investment but gives a big difference.
It's a straightforward swap, no problem.

Frank

JIM THEO

One of the best brands for rear adjustable camber bolts are Ingalis (I think Whiteline also sells them).
JIM

911

I have bolts all round, whiteline lower rear arms and mrt top mounts.
Ralliart needed all this to get the settings I wanted.
More the better if you are going to extreem heights.

Forget the Dealers, Power Station, TSL are all good and experienced.(several others too).

The rear lower arms can be set to give an increase in rear track and neg camber.

Graham.

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

I've got it booked in at Powerstation for Thursday at 11am. I did mention your name and asked for a discount which was when I found out you work there!
The bloke I was speaking to (Rich) just laughed!!
£120 +VAT to get the alignment done and to have the bumpsteer mod done.

I phoned TSL and they were good also though, they wanted £120 inc VAT, but I don't think this included the bumpsteer mod.

Xtreme Automobiles (Ralliart in Dudley) wanted £110 +VAT but the chap I was speaking to didn't fill me with confidence that he knew what he was talking about! I'm sure they know their Evo's, but I'm not so sure about scoobs!

For comparison the dealers want £57.50 +VAT, though don't expect to get any bumpsteer mods done and I doubt it will be as accurate as the others!

I have ordered some Whiteline 14mm camber bolts from Demon Tweeks for the rear and got a 10% Scoobynet discount! - £25.12 +VAT for a pair.

See you on Thursday Andy, introduce yourself if you are around.

911

Have you got the whiteline roll bars on yet?
If not, find the credit card and have them pop a full set on at the same time...
You will not regret it.
The chassis will be a revelation.

Let us know. The only suspension mod I am missing is the bump steer mod.
Know what you mean about Ralliart

Graham.

Fuzz

I may have my head buried in the ducting in the dyno room.
Major push on now to get it finished..

You wont regret the mods you're having done.

Andy

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

Already got the whiteline 20mm non-adjustable ARB's and drop links on (front and rear).

Just got back from having it done and it feels a bit strange

In a straight line it is great, the steering feels a bit heavier, but more responsive though cornering doesn't feel right at all, I have less confidence around bends than before.

It feels like it is understeering more around roundabouts/bends, the steering goes light, just not what I was expecting.

If you plant your foot down while turning it feels better, though you don't always drive everywhere at the limits!!

Any ideas?

Fuzz

Oh
Cambers set to 1.5 degrees negative IIRC as you asked.
Adding the bumpsteer on as well should have made it a corker...
Not sure what's up.
Better call Rich first thing.

You say you just got in... how far away do you live then?

Andy

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

I'm in Stafford (65 miles away) though I went via Gloucester and did some shopping on the way back and then stopped off in Kiddiminster and had a Wetherspoons balti and pint of John Smiths!

Rich said -1° for normal road, -2° for track, seeing as I don't do many miles (and those are not in a straight line) he suggested -1.5°.

The car was actually set to -1°30' front and rear, and toe to 0° front and rear (is -1°30' = -1.5° it was a long time since I did this at school!, actually suppose 30' is 0.5° if 30 mins is half an hour?).

I'll give Rich a call and see what he suggests, it may be that getting this sorted has hightlighted some other problem...

Fuzz

1 degree 30 mins is indeed 1.5 degrees. (60 minutes in a degree)

I thought toe was +0.05 (usually aim for between +0,02 and +0,05)
A gnats **** positive.

Go to Cheltenham for shopping

Andy

911

Don't go to Cheltenham shopping with the Wife/mistress, far too expensive!

I can't help feeling this issue is about the car not having the complimentary front bar to the new rear one fitted.
Will be very interested how it gets sorted.
The caar should feel so much better after such a mod.

Good luck, and please let us know the result.

Graham.

Fuzz

I had a sweat on for a while wondering if I had done something wrong..
I think we worked out the problem when dave came back today,however...

Rear Anti roll bar = 20mm (non adjustable)
Front anti roll bar = 22mm (non adjustable)

Rich suggested he put the standard 19mm on and see if this cures it.. we await the result!
Keep us informed Dave.


Andy

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

Will do. I've got to go to a family meal tomorrow lunchtime, but I'll force myself out of bed early and get it checked out for you! (I'm not a mornings person!)

I definately ordered 2x 20mm bars, and have the receipt off DT to prove it!

Fuzz

Time for a rant at Demon Tweeks is in order then.
Hope it sorts everything out.


Andy

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

Yep, defo a 22mm on the front, measured it in the middle (wasn't convinced the 'down' bits were the same dia as the 'across bit'.

Dug the old std ARB out of the garage tho haven't had time to fit it yet.

Will update you this evening when I get back from Wolvo (going in another car!!)

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

Well, it was Whiteline that supplied the wrong part. The front ARB was labelled up as a 20mm bar but it is a 22mm version!

I have refitted the original front ARB and it has drastically improved the handling on what it was. The steering feels much more positive around sharp turns/roundabouts with only a hint of understeer.

I think I'll try experimenting a bit with tyre pressures (currently 33 front, 31 rear) and will have to decide what to do about the ARB's, get a 20mm front one, or increase the back one to 22mm+. Comments?

Fuzz

Your pressure gauge is out I checked them as 34 front and 32 rear which is **** on what you want. (unless being a wagon changes things slightly but I doubt it)..
one side was 34.5 but hey not being picky

I've got 22mm front 24mm rear
I tried the standard one back on the front of mine when I originally had 22mm on both front and rear,I was so used to the 22mm one at the front, it felt like the bumper was going to dig in the tarmac with the 19mm back on, so I bought a 24mm adustable rear instead...











From Powerstation

Andy

vulnax999

iTrader: (7)

Thicker front a/r bar will give more understeer ... the rear should (usually! ) be thicker to prevent tail happiness,

Matched pair is useful, the adjustable rear ( and now front adjustable I think is out ) gives many options!

vulnax999

iTrader: (7)

Is the car still on axle stands in the garage then Andy!

Hehe thought you meant tyre pressures!!!
22 front / 24 adj rear, metal links and PU bushes all round, inc. anti lift kit!

Fuzz

edited for clarity.

pretty much as mine then.... (except bumpsteer)

How do you find it.??
Mine after probably a year of hooning I am just begining to find it's drift point (not it's pure breakaway point) very consise and controllable when trying to "manouvre" round slow people "mid" roundabout at speed.
It yaws away a treat.

Andy

vulnax999

iTrader: (7)

Did I forget to add I had the Powerstation bumpsteer mod mid 2004
Running STi4 struts and springs too with STi top mounts. STi eng and g'box mounts, and pitch bar. Lost strut brace due to bigger TMIC.

Well, after it left Powerstation it was sharper and handled fine - I like it to do what I TELL it to do, not what it wants to do - and that was what I got. Was a good ride and behaved well even pressing on.

BUT the clutch was changed in Sept 04 and the car feels wooly now, well since then ... the garage split the driveshatfs at the wishbone/hub ball joint not undoing the strut ( so I am told / asked them to do it ) and with the driveshaft retaining dowel/pin I assumed it would all go back together with same geometry .. but feels much more loose now, as if they knocked out the settings .. Doh!

Probably have to pop down for the alignment again, might as well go for eibachs and front underside brace ... discount mate ???

Ta

Neil

Fuzz

not been there long enough mate

Rich should be paying me for all the custom I generate.


See you soon


Andy

speedydaveb

iTrader: (1)

Remember to discuss 'commission' on your next pay review!

I have just ordered a 22mm adjustable rear ARB from DT to go with the 22mm fixed ARB that was on the front.

DT said that to fit the 24mm adjustable ARB you need to strengthen the ARB mounting points, and modify them to fit. Is it worthwhile doing this mod, or keep my order as is?

I'm quite handy with the mig welder!
(all those RWD escorts I had, and still own two!)

Thanks for your continuing advice.

Fuzz

I will find you a link to another post along the same lines,
Has approximate costs etc..

Powerstation recommended the heavy duty mounts to me when I was to going for the 24mm diameter, due to the extra loadings involved.

No modifying them, they just bolt on, although one bolt is a little awkward to get at as it sits right under the fuel filler neck.

Andy

Read this post.
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=418605