Fitting new shocks - how long does it take?
#1
Fitting new shocks - how long does it take?
I am about to fit some new shocks on my 98 Uk wagon and am debating doing the job myself. Is it fairly straightforward and how long is it likely to take me. (Not that much mechanical experience). How long would a decent mechanic take to do the same job as that is likely to decide on cost etc.
#2
Think you will find this will take someone who knows what they are doing, has all the right tools and equipment(ramp not jacks etc) around the 2 hour mark. If you are not that mechanically minded let someone else do it, you know its done right then and will be worth the extra money, which should be around £100 depending on who does it. You may also need your geomotry set up checked afterwards.
#4
For my MY00 ( saloon )
30-60 mins for each front ( assuming you cut brake line bracket on the shock so you dont have to bleed brakes and remove brake lines)
( 60 minutes first time , 30 mins on subsequent times )
60 mins for each rear ( also assuming you cut brake line bracket on the shock ) as the back is a bit fiddly on a classic - not sure about a wagon but the saloon needs to have seltbelt tensioner removed to get better access.
No probs on a jack but i would recommend an axle stand as well - just in case bolts are a bit tight and you need to lean into it a bit more. Also make sure you have decent spanner/socket selection - including 17/19mm spanners ( 2 19's would be good ), 19mm socket , 12mm spanner & socket, small hacksaw ( for cutting brakeline bracket )
on the fronts - ensure you mark the position of the top bolt - on the bolt and shock together - as this is the camber setting.
Do it, its not difficult if know how to use a socket set. I can now do all mine in less than 3hrs yet a Subaru dealer quotes 4 hrs . Instructions below :
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...ght=suspension
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36
Cheers
Rich
30-60 mins for each front ( assuming you cut brake line bracket on the shock so you dont have to bleed brakes and remove brake lines)
( 60 minutes first time , 30 mins on subsequent times )
60 mins for each rear ( also assuming you cut brake line bracket on the shock ) as the back is a bit fiddly on a classic - not sure about a wagon but the saloon needs to have seltbelt tensioner removed to get better access.
No probs on a jack but i would recommend an axle stand as well - just in case bolts are a bit tight and you need to lean into it a bit more. Also make sure you have decent spanner/socket selection - including 17/19mm spanners ( 2 19's would be good ), 19mm socket , 12mm spanner & socket, small hacksaw ( for cutting brakeline bracket )
on the fronts - ensure you mark the position of the top bolt - on the bolt and shock together - as this is the camber setting.
Do it, its not difficult if know how to use a socket set. I can now do all mine in less than 3hrs yet a Subaru dealer quotes 4 hrs . Instructions below :
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...ght=suspension
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36
Cheers
Rich
#7
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In addition to what Richard said -
A pair of cheap spring compressors,
a 1/2" drive breaker bar - the bigger the better! Don't try and break-out the big bolts with a 3/8 drive or spanner.
6" + 9" (roughly) extensions for above
19mm 'surface drive' socket for above, thats the kind with 6 rounded lumps which engage with the flats on the nuts. The usual 12 point or bi-hex can round the corners off when very tight. Machine-mart do these for peanuts and they're strong.
With some of the bolts its easier to drive the bolt-head rather than the nut. When breaking out you hardly ever need to hold the other end with a spanner, but you often need 2 hands on the breaker bar!
Slacken the strut-top nut (the ones in the centre of the top-mounts) before jacking up! Its so annoying trying to slacken them with the car jacked only to find the strut shaft rotating with the nut.
Take your time and allow a full day.
A pair of cheap spring compressors,
a 1/2" drive breaker bar - the bigger the better! Don't try and break-out the big bolts with a 3/8 drive or spanner.
6" + 9" (roughly) extensions for above
19mm 'surface drive' socket for above, thats the kind with 6 rounded lumps which engage with the flats on the nuts. The usual 12 point or bi-hex can round the corners off when very tight. Machine-mart do these for peanuts and they're strong.
With some of the bolts its easier to drive the bolt-head rather than the nut. When breaking out you hardly ever need to hold the other end with a spanner, but you often need 2 hands on the breaker bar!
Slacken the strut-top nut (the ones in the centre of the top-mounts) before jacking up! Its so annoying trying to slacken them with the car jacked only to find the strut shaft rotating with the nut.
Take your time and allow a full day.
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just adding to richards instructions .....no need to cut/saw any brackets .......just nock the "c" clip off and pull the flexy hose down & out the bracket .
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Originally Posted by scoobtech
just adding to richards instructions .....no need to cut/saw any brackets .......just nock the "c" clip off and pull the flexy hose down & out the bracket .
#10
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i`m a tecnition for subaru m8 ....work on em every day of my life .......i would imagine that in your case the " c " clip was missing & your flexy had some how become completly seized into the bracket .........if you didnt know that a " c " clip should have been there & it was stuck , then i suppose it might look like it was permanantly fixed .
how many did you cut ?
scott
how many did you cut ?
scott
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Scoobtech - do the replacement Subaru (KYB) dampers come with an opening in the bracket for the pipe that you slide the C clip onto..
I bought the KYB AGX Adjustable type and had to cut an opening in the bracket so that I could fit the pipe back in with the C clip. That was on my MY93 WRX - the Subaru KYB's fitted to it originally had an opening (don't know if that was standard or if someone had modified them).
Haven't changed the suspension on my Type R so don't know if they have an opening or not.
I bought the KYB AGX Adjustable type and had to cut an opening in the bracket so that I could fit the pipe back in with the C clip. That was on my MY93 WRX - the Subaru KYB's fitted to it originally had an opening (don't know if that was standard or if someone had modified them).
Haven't changed the suspension on my Type R so don't know if they have an opening or not.
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the 1`s i`ve seen have all been a open bracket .....dont know why they have designed them like that .....they probably have made the stupid assumption that every 1 who buys these will also be buying a set of braided hoses to go with them.
typicle !
scott
typicle !
scott
#13
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confused, done loads of these and NEVER come across a set of shox (O.E. or replacement) that didn't have to have the bracket cut to remove the brakeline!?!
so which models do you work on??
so which models do you work on??
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Originally Posted by stockcar
confused, done loads of these and NEVER come across a set of shox (O.E. or replacement) that didn't have to have the bracket cut to remove the brakeline!?!
so which models do you work on??
so which models do you work on??
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I changed my MY99 standard subaru suspension to Prodrive P1 subaru suspension and both sets needed to be cut.
Definately fit these yourself, not that difficult. Removing the top mounts and swapping the springs will be the hardest bit.
Took me 5 hours the first time I did it.
My tip: make sure you have a large break bar as the strut nuts will be tight.
Definately fit these yourself, not that difficult. Removing the top mounts and swapping the springs will be the hardest bit.
Took me 5 hours the first time I did it.
My tip: make sure you have a large break bar as the strut nuts will be tight.
Last edited by PhilA; 28 November 2005 at 01:02 PM.
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