7 Foot

On my MY00 I have my Whiteline ARB on the middle setting. For what it¡¦s worth I also have the Whiteline solid drop links, Eibachs and bumpsteer mod.

Powerstation recommended the middle setting but obviously said it is mine to play around with.

What do people have theirs set on?

Edcase ¡V hi mate ƒº it was your thread that got me wondering. Don¡¦t know whether there would be a difference between classics and bugeyes so I thought I would start a new one.

7 Foot

Been here 2.5 days and only 19 people have read it.

**** I must be dull

Chop chop, I want opinions.

Jamesn

7 foot,

I have the arb links but plan to get the uprated arb's as well.
Did it kill most of the body roll?


James.

Sennadog 93

7 foot.

Can you describe how the car feels now with the ARBs. I'm down at Powerstation on Tuesday (hopefully these dampers will fit) and I'm thinking about having ARBs fitted.

C'mon. Chop chop, answers please.

7 Foot

Oi you buggers - I haven't got an answer to my question yet

I have only had the rear ARB changed. As I had this fitted at the same time as a set of Eibachs I can't really describe the difference just the uprated bar will make.

Body roll has certainly been reduced, I am sure this is more down to the springs than anything else. The back end does feel a lot tighter and stiffer than before - generally far superior to standard.

A friend of mine has commented that as a passenger he is far more conscious of the rear of the car now. He finds it a little un-nerving as he thinks the back is about to swing out. Personally I think he is being a big fairy. From the drivers seat it feels more controllable than before with the rear end possibly feeling more communicative as it now feels positive and solid with understeer now petty much eliminated

Some people claim you should not uprate just the rear ARB, others, that changing the front as well leads to huge understeer in the wet.

If it was the case that both should be replaced then why would companies like Powerstation and TSL being fitting just rears?

Can someone answer my question now please?

JamesS

Full `ard (last hole)...lovely!

ozzy

I've absolutely no idea what the ARB should be set too. I'm looking to upgrade my own (MY99) and I would just recommend changed the setings yourself and have a play to see what the car feels like with the different settings.

There was a great webpage detailing the effects of swaybars (ARB's) but I can't find it. I'll keep searching.

Stefan

ozzy

Something else to keep you occupied - http://www.clubsi.com/suspension_tweak_table.shtml

I'll keep looking once I'm back from the gym.

Stefan

ozzy

Found 'em

First article
Second article
More general tech stuff

Stefan

ozzy

Basically, the stiffer the rear ARB the more oversteer and less understeer you'll introduce. Whether the Whiteline ARB has big enough changes between the settings for you to go from subtle understeer to OMG smelly pants oversteer I don't know.

Stefan

Kippax

the stiffer the rear arb, the less roll at the rear, the more upright the inner wheel, the larger the contact patch of the tyre, the larger the lateral force genrated, the more aggressive loss of grip feels on the limit. pretty much the same in reverse for front end.......not going backwards

superstring

Well I'm no expert either...however, from what I've read, making the rear bar too stiff can lead to problems (big time, unrecoverable oversteer), unless you've upgraded the dampers. The reason being that a big bar can overpower the standard dampers. So, personally, I wouldn't go beyond the middle hole on the Whiteline bar (I assume you have the bar were the middle hole corresponds to a 22mm equivalent). Of course you could try the last hole and go somewhere safe to experiment with the breakaway behavior!

For what it's worth, I have a 20mm fixed bar on my car and recently I upgraded the droplinks (Whiteline) and the two main bushings (Powerflex). Your quote below could apply (verbatim) to my car as well after these changes. I'm not inclined to be thinking about changing to a stiffer bar (for the moment, anyway!)

Cheers, John

7 Foot

That's more like it!

Good effort people particularly Ozzy who appears to have posted 4 different replies, found a load of links and had a work out all between 12:32 and 12:38. What a hero.

I think I will just wait for a weekend with a couple of spair hours in it and experiment. Carefully. There are so many differing opinions I think finding out for myself really is the only option.

Thanks.

vulnax999

iTrader: (7)

I put on Whiteline metal drop links and polyurethane bushes on the rear as my original bushes were going soft, made little difference to feel or handling, or noise.

Then I put on the rear adjustable AR bar a few weeks later, last hole ( hehe !) and it made a great difference, tightened up the handling enormously, no over / under steer or skipping out etc.

Putting on the uprated front AR bar and metal links / PU bushes, which eased off the taut feel and reduced the effect of the rear bar, but still better than original.

This on a JDM MY94 Wagon on 50k miles, std springs and dampers ( which I wanna change next! ).

Neil

Lars

MY 99, just installed Whiteline ARB on the middle setting. Whiteline solid Alu. drop links front and rear and bumpsteer mod.

I normally run tyre pressure 2,8 bar front and 2.5 bar rear to limit the understeer. The ALB in middle position change the understeer to oversteer and I have now changed tyre pressure to 2.8 bar all 4 wheels. car is now neutral but very keen to oversteer when I do power lift off.
I'll try it on a track day next Thursday. I start with middle position and then try the inner position ( hard ALB), my fear is that inner position will give to much oversteer, and will only be usefull if you do slalom ( cones ) I think I stick to middle position with equal tyre pressure front,rear for road use.
I general I find the car more nervous with this set up but in corners I know well I can corner with around 10Km/h higher speed ( around 6 Miles per hour). Take care with power lift off, rear is very sensitive

7 Foot

Lars - was hugely impressed with mine when I took it on the track after having the ARB and Eibachs fitted. With 34psi on the fronts, 32 on the rears (18" alloys) and the middle setting on the ARB it was completely neutral. I love the way I can tighten the line through corners so easily now just by lifting off the throttle.

Let me know how you get on with the harder setting.

Lars

7 foot, yes the Whiteline 22mm rear ARB is a wonderfull tool.

I took it on a track day and started out with the middle setting.
Car is MY99 with Bumb steer mod. Whiteline solid Alu drop link fron and rear and ALK.
Tyre pressure cold 38PSI front rear.
Car is neutral and nearly no understeer, I get faster lab times than before the 22 mm ARB was mounted ( 47 sec compared to 48 before)Car is easy to control. If the corner tight up you just do a a bit lift off and the front turn in.
I then tried the ARB in the tight position ( inner ) this was to much,I was loosing grip as the inner rear wheel started to leave the ground, and was spinning free in the air, car was extremly prone to lift off oversteer. The right position for me is middle, both for track and road. Downside on road is that the car has become more sensitive to sidewind, so for holliday trips I think I go to the soft position. Lars

[Edited by Lars - 23/06/2003 16:48:07]

dowser

You need to try it with your suspension set-up and driving style - the whole idea is to customise it so that the car handles how you want it to when you want it to.

FWIW - I run the rear on full hard...but I also run -4 degrees camber and a larger front ARB. The best on-road compromise for me was middle position on rear bar and standard front one. But this overheated the front tyres on track (rear ARB makes front tyres work harder during weight transfer, hence removal of understeer).

Good Luck
Richard

Lars

I Fully agree dowser. With standard front ARB and rear in middle I get just the ballance I like, car is a little oversteer but controlable. I think if the car start to lift inner wheel, the ARB is to hard. Of cause I can go to more negative camber in front but I do not want to turn my car into a racing car.
In general the adjustable ARB is a great improvement and it is only a 15 minutes job to adjust when you are on a trackday.

superstring

Here's another link for ya, 7 Foot:

http://www.spdusa.com/big.htm

(Sorry, I don't know how to make it clickable)

[Edited by superstring - 6/10/2003 1:22:23 AM]