MY02 Geometry settings / advice.
#1
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I've got a UK MY02 WRX with standard size tyres / wheels, the drivers side front tyre is bald on the inside the rest of the tyre is about 60% worn (12k miles).
I am about to get some new F1's on the front can anyone confirm the Prodrive recomended settings for the new age?
Is their any downside to the Prodrive settings?
Cheers
Edward.
I am about to get some new F1's on the front can anyone confirm the Prodrive recomended settings for the new age?
Is their any downside to the Prodrive settings?
Cheers
Edward.
#3
Edward,
presumably you're booked in to a SUK dealer rather than independent (eg TSL)? - might be a bit difficult asking for anything other than Prodrive settings.
there's been a thread recently where somebody stated the settings and poss. had a std car set up to them - don't know if they've posted back with results yet
AFAIK nothing wrong with settings but supposed not to be adviseable for loads of motorway driving - set up more for enthusiastic cornering on B-roads.
do the prodrive settings make a great deal of difference on std springs / setups or are they more for prodrive / eibach lowered versions?
NickAdams has prodrive prings and geometry and rates them, others have eibachs / tsl setup and rate that instead...
are you wanting a setup for blasting over the Flappit etc or "surviving" the local "roads"?
HTH or if not, at least it's bttt
Apple
presumably you're booked in to a SUK dealer rather than independent (eg TSL)? - might be a bit difficult asking for anything other than Prodrive settings.
there's been a thread recently where somebody stated the settings and poss. had a std car set up to them - don't know if they've posted back with results yet
AFAIK nothing wrong with settings but supposed not to be adviseable for loads of motorway driving - set up more for enthusiastic cornering on B-roads.
do the prodrive settings make a great deal of difference on std springs / setups or are they more for prodrive / eibach lowered versions?
NickAdams has prodrive prings and geometry and rates them, others have eibachs / tsl setup and rate that instead...
are you wanting a setup for blasting over the Flappit etc or "surviving" the local "roads"?
HTH or if not, at least it's bttt
Apple
#4
just adding a bit - does the car need setting back up to standard settings if it's been kerbed etc and knocked out the tracking etc?
is it like the EVO test car when the bugeye was released and needed a proper geometry setup to sort out the tyre wear?
my local dealer says geometry is part of the PDI check now after so many returns... (wonder if the EVO saga prodded SUK enough? )
apple
is it like the EVO test car when the bugeye was released and needed a proper geometry setup to sort out the tyre wear?
my local dealer says geometry is part of the PDI check now after so many returns... (wonder if the EVO saga prodded SUK enough? )
apple
#5
Ed,
These are the settings that I get mine reset to every few months (after banging heck out of the suspension on the roads up here) - MY01, of course ...
Front Castor +3°00'
Front Camber -1°20'
Front Toe +0.4mm
Rear Camber -1°10'
Rear Toe +0.1mm
No-one ever seems to post specifics with regards to geometry, so if nothing else, peeps'll jump on this thread and tell me how wrong these settings are - which I don't mind, so long as they justify an alternative
As to tyre wear, this gives slightly more wear on the inside shoulders (particularly on the fronts) but to combat this I rotate the tyres halfway though their life (front left to back right and vice versa).
On my own private test track, these settings allow me to stand on the brakes at 71+ down to 20 (with hands hovering above the wheel just in case) and the car doesn't wobble at all
[Edited by stu200 - 4/4/2003 10:46:48 PM]
These are the settings that I get mine reset to every few months (after banging heck out of the suspension on the roads up here) - MY01, of course ...
Front Castor +3°00'
Front Camber -1°20'
Front Toe +0.4mm
Rear Camber -1°10'
Rear Toe +0.1mm
No-one ever seems to post specifics with regards to geometry, so if nothing else, peeps'll jump on this thread and tell me how wrong these settings are - which I don't mind, so long as they justify an alternative
As to tyre wear, this gives slightly more wear on the inside shoulders (particularly on the fronts) but to combat this I rotate the tyres halfway though their life (front left to back right and vice versa).
On my own private test track, these settings allow me to stand on the brakes at 71+ down to 20 (with hands hovering above the wheel just in case) and the car doesn't wobble at all
[Edited by stu200 - 4/4/2003 10:46:48 PM]
#6
Stu IMHO You have way too much negative camber -.5 deg front camber with 0 front toe and 8 mins total neg rear toe is the best all round setting and allows for even wear of the tyres .
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