Ok I dont want Eibachs as they bounce about all over the place..

I want something that will be stiff enough for Track use

Can someone recommend spring rates - front and rear - I want to just replace the std springs on the sti5 and keep everything else -any suggestions - and who does it??

Can anyone explain what changing the spring rates is actually doing in laymans terms

Regards

A suspension novice

 

Well, suspension tuning is a very personal thing, but I'm not sure that everybody would agree with this statement. As a matter of fact, Eibachs are stiffer than standard UK Turbos, but a lot less stiff than the ones fitted to the STi5 as standard.

The "normal" view of fitting softer springs is that you get more roll and worse pitch when braking etc., but better control over bumps with less "bouncing" for a given set of dampers. Harder springs can give problems with "bouncing" if the dampers aren't uprated at the same time - you often see this with the Nova boys slammed creations. The reason for this is that the spring compresses less for a given input from a bump, meaning that the damper moves less and can take out less energy. Hence, the spring then rebounds with more energy, etc etc.

Leda (for example) suspension runs much higher spring rates, but this is OK as their dampers also run higher rates to match.

To wrap up, it is interesting to note that the P1 runs a similar rate spring to the STi5. Some people find the P1 a handful on badly bumpy roads - there is one straight road near me where a P1 is virtually impossible to drive over 50 MPH, but my standard MY01 springs are OK to about 70 (although the wife complains about needing a sports-bra).

Follow this link for information on various spring rate options to suit your own tastes.

Duncan

 

Thanks

Car feels uneasy at higher speeds - especially into bends.....

 

In what way does the car feel "uneasy"? Is it bouncing, pitching, light on the steering?

Have you had the geometry checked?

Duncan

 

It does'nt bounce - just leans too much, like its going to lose it.....

Yes Geometry has been checked several times at PowerStation

I have a few basic mods already:

Antilift
18 inch (light) alloys
Front strut brace (replaced useless carbon fibre jobbie)
Rear strut brace
Solid rear links
Rear MRT roll bar
Front MRT roll bar
Rear castor bolts with 1'30 negative camber front and rear and some toe in...

The car just leans too much in fast bends....

 

try and get hold of some 17's to try for a week.a m8 of mine who has had many scoobs,put 18's on his last one and hated it.

 

Hi Steve

If you have uprated roll bars it is unlikely the car is rolling that much. Bare in mind though that roll is far less likely to cause the car to "lose it" than the car being too stiff.

It's difficult and probably dangerous to advise / make decisions on how to change your suspension set up unless you can describe the exact symptoms you want to counter.

Also remember that changing any part of the suspensions set-up will affect every other part of the suspension set-up, so it is not as simple as if a = b then answer = c.

All the best

Simon

 

I think I am qualified to reply!
I do (did) have more or less the same setup
My00 wagon
Fr/rr braces
fr+rr ARB from whiteline (they supply MRT)
Front STi alloy arms
ALK
solid drop links with rear h/d mounts
Prodrive OZ 17' SO3s

And did have the prodrive wr suspension.

Yes the car felt very "soft" and after 20.000km was crashing on potholes. Decided on DMS gold after much deliberation but with stiffer progressive springs identical in rating to the STI v6.
Well the change was amazing! I fitted those 5 days ago and still cant believe why didnt i buy them earlier! Steering feel is excellent (Also fitted lower control arm brace) and the shocks are more confie than the prodrive job after 20.000 km. As for cornering I have to recalibrate my entry speeds.
My advice to anybody modding a wrx/turbo is 1. brakes 2. suspension and then power.
Cant wait to test them on track as they are bump/rebound adjustable.

 

Steve, if your car "falls too much onto" the side in fast corners, you need stiffer springs.

However, from what I understand from your post, you have standard dampers. You can change the springs to stiffer ones, but you wont get a desirable handling: the springs work together with the damper over a certain distance. If you change the spring rate, you need to set the bump and rebound accordingly.

That's where you need to bite the bullet as they say and buy another suspension system. I say bite the bullet because they cost a lot of money (£2000 to £3000 for the best ones). But you have a different car afterwards

Let me know if you need more help with suspension, I have tried quite a few systems

 

stevo,

im sure you know but if the road is very smooth, you dont need suspension travel at all. if is rough, you do. if you want to eliminate roll, pitch, yaw etc get some bilstien coilovers and bang 'em on the hardest setting. dont expect a pleasant ride on bumpy roads though. you cant have it both ways.

personally i rekon really stiff suspension is a lovely setup and i am just as prepared to drive slowly when the road is bumpy as i am when its wet.

stu.

 

I am exactly the opposite