roll center correction kit.. worth it?
12 February 2015, 11:23 AM
#2
Lets you lower the car without messing up the front suspension geometry as much!
Without it, lowering anymore than approx 10mm will start to have detrimental effects to handling (assuming constant spring rates), so this lowers the front balljoints relative to the hub and therefore keeps the inclination of the front wishbones at an acceptable angle rather than the incline they get by lowering a standard hub/balljoint.
A lot of people think that getting a car lower will lower its c of g and therefore improve handling, without realising they've just fudged about with the suspension geometry and induced scrub with travel.
This lets the 10mm become 15-20mm, but that's only at the front.
Ideally youd want to do the same at the rear, but theres no easy way to do that without modifying the rear subframe.
Without it, lowering anymore than approx 10mm will start to have detrimental effects to handling (assuming constant spring rates), so this lowers the front balljoints relative to the hub and therefore keeps the inclination of the front wishbones at an acceptable angle rather than the incline they get by lowering a standard hub/balljoint.
A lot of people think that getting a car lower will lower its c of g and therefore improve handling, without realising they've just fudged about with the suspension geometry and induced scrub with travel.
This lets the 10mm become 15-20mm, but that's only at the front.
Ideally youd want to do the same at the rear, but theres no easy way to do that without modifying the rear subframe.
12 February 2015, 11:28 AM
#3
Lets you lower the car without messing up the front suspension geometry as much!
Without it, lowering anymore than approx 10mm will start to have detrimental effects to handling (assuming constant spring rates), so this lowers the front balljoints relative to the hub and therefore keeps the inclination of the front wishbones at an acceptable angle rather than the incline they get by lowering a standard hub/balljoint.
A lot of people think that getting a car lower will lower its c of g and therefore improve handling, without realising they've just fudged about with the suspension geometry and induced scrub with travel.
This lets the 10mm become 15-20mm, but that's only at the front.
Ideally youd want to do the same at the rear, but theres no easy way to do that without modifying the rear subframe.
Without it, lowering anymore than approx 10mm will start to have detrimental effects to handling (assuming constant spring rates), so this lowers the front balljoints relative to the hub and therefore keeps the inclination of the front wishbones at an acceptable angle rather than the incline they get by lowering a standard hub/balljoint.
A lot of people think that getting a car lower will lower its c of g and therefore improve handling, without realising they've just fudged about with the suspension geometry and induced scrub with travel.
This lets the 10mm become 15-20mm, but that's only at the front.
Ideally youd want to do the same at the rear, but theres no easy way to do that without modifying the rear subframe.
Cheers ryan
12 February 2015, 03:17 PM
#4
The lateral link mount points on the rear subframe need lifting which can only really be done with a lot of faff and a welder ..... not even sure it would be doable wwithout removing the subframe.
I had a go at this as the rear subframe was off for strengthening and removing the passive 4WS anyway (bit of an experiment ... successful though), but theres a limited amount achievable before the inner lateral bolts clash with the tank! I got them up by 15mm and then lowered by20mm.
Sort of visible in these pics.
I had a go at this as the rear subframe was off for strengthening and removing the passive 4WS anyway (bit of an experiment ... successful though), but theres a limited amount achievable before the inner lateral bolts clash with the tank! I got them up by 15mm and then lowered by20mm.
Sort of visible in these pics.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post