cuprajake

iTrader: (11)

As per title,

It's not on my hunter lol,

Can I get away with the prodrive settings?

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

What are you going to be doing with your car useage wise?

And what are the 'Prodrive settings' you are thinking of using?

Is your car standard, lowered etc, what tyres have you got fitted??

cuprajake

iTrader: (11)

Cars totally standard in terms of chassi. Engine is tuned stage one

Tyres are 're070

I've since done some searching and was thinking

Front camber equal around -1.3/-1.4
Front toe out 0.02/0.04 degrees
Rear camber equal around -1.3/-1.4
Rear toe in -0.02/-0.04

Used for fast road setup.

What you think ??

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

Toe-out up front will provoke unusual steering response. Toe-IN is the usual, and yes a few minutes (front & rear) should be fine, and a good starting point

May as well max out the camber up front - should be able to get over 1.5° as your RE070's are sticky rubber

53

iTrader: (41)

Usage dependent

Mine from memory...

2 Cam fr
2.5 Cam Rear

Toe Fr 6
Toe Rr 10

Caster 5

Handles, rails etc

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

Looks a sticky set-up

That's alot of rear camber

53

iTrader: (41)

Bedford yesterday mate

AD08's are the daddy I have the R's on the classic which I took to Snetts in February but they are both so sticky, noisier and longer to warm up than the R's but equally as tarmac bending

cuprajake

iTrader: (11)

i was using this thread

https://www.scoobynet.com/suspension...-settings.html

your image bonesetter



but in the thread arnnie says to change the rear toe

jake

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

Oh that looks so good, and totally at home Flat, tyre walls holding up, nice and controlled - purty

Oohh, you're on the R 'orange oil' compound AD08's - I have those on the Type R and indeed aren't they just the daddy's

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

You've quoted me out of context, I suggest you re-read that post of mine

The above print out was taken from a new age STi wagon which had a mixed front end and was capable of a lot of negative camber

I mention the amount of camber in that post, as well as posting a more usual printout alongside it

cuprajake

iTrader: (11)

Sorry picked the wrong picture.

cuprajake

iTrader: (11)

That's the pic.

I thought the toe reading there is toe out

Toe in should show a - sign should it not

328isport

iTrader: (6)

just a quick question, how are you guys running -2 degrees plus camber getting on with inner edge wear? I'd have thought this would promote pretty significant wear?

cuprajake

iTrader: (11)

If toe is set right wear will be minimal

fpan

iTrader: (11)

Toe in is +, toe out -.
Toe in will give straight line stability and more grip when cornering at the expense of steering response, toe out will make the car very agile.

The second image you posted looks good and is what I run at the moment (although with a little les rear camber).

has-scooby

iTrader: (7)

it is listed on the hunter mate just select Australia/New Zealand every model is listed there

cuprajake

iTrader: (11)

Cool. Cheers pal

cuprajake

iTrader: (11)

finally got round to doing the geo on the spec c.

since i got it the steering wheel has always been off centre, then last week we had to remove the camber bolts to change the cv boot,

i forgot to save the before measurements but iirc the front camber was equal at about -0.41 but the toes were something like 0.30 and -0.15 at the front, the rear only one wheels toe was out,

heres my final setup, not too extreme and this is the maximum camber i could get equally, the nearside would actually go to -1.10

IMAG2613 by cuprajake1, on Flickr

jake

bonesetter

iTrader: (9)

That looks fine

cuprajake

iTrader: (11)

Feels a hell of a lot better too Tbh.

Doesn't help when your wheels are facing so far apart lol.

I would of liked a little more camber in the front than rear Tbh.

-Nic-

iTrader: (4)

Try some Whiteline Com C top mounts? Extra camber & caster and look OE.