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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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Default Primer or no primer?

In the middle of doing a front end makeover (will post pics when complete)
Anyway my next bit is to paint the grill where the Subaru badge is, I just wondered from anyones experience do I need to prime this or not before spraying.
If so will it require plastic primer or normal primer?
I have normal primer if this will do?
Basically do I need to prime it with plastic primer?
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 12:23 PM
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Plastic primer for anything plastic mate, it bites into it and stops the paint flaking off later down the line.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 04:02 PM
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Thanks for the advice, looks like another trip to halfrauds.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 09:57 PM
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From: Rl'yeh
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Deffo do NOT do it without, or it will end in tears: plastic primer or it will flake off.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 10:09 PM
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Like said above use plastic primer I did this before without the primer and it F***d right up and then was a right headache to get it right
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 11:15 PM
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All depends on whether you are going for a gloss finish ie clear coat or just a freshen up with rattle can black.

If you just want a freshen up then a light coat of satin will not flake off being so thin but if the former with clear coat then defo plasti primer mate.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by prodriverules
All depends on whether you are going for a gloss finish ie clear coat or just a freshen up with rattle can black.

If you just want a freshen up then a light coat of satin will not flake off being so thin but if the former with clear coat then defo plasti primer mate.
what is the procedure the guys use on alloy wheels ?
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by craigo
what is the procedure the guys use on alloy wheels ?
All depends on the start condition Craig,if there in good shape and only require painting then just key the surface and straight on with wet on wet primer/colour and finally clear but if there is corrosion/kerbing issues then either flat back with sand paper or media blasting followed by etch primer/high build primer[then wet/dry sand] followed then with the normal procedure if they were good condition.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by prodriverules
All depends on the start condition Craig,if there in good shape and only require painting then just key the surface and straight on with wet on wet primer/colour and finally clear but if there is corrosion/kerbing issues then either flat back with sand paper or media blasting followed by etch primer/high build primer[then wet/dry sand] followed then with the normal procedure if they were good condition.
thanks.......
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 11:33 PM
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what is wet on wet primer ?
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by craigo
what is wet on wet primer ?
Wet on wet primer doesn't require flatting like high build but is only of any use on a good surface like brand new panels or very good condition wheels.

It has a very high adhesion factor also.
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by prodriverules
Wet on wet primer doesn't require flatting like high build but is only of any use on a good surface like brand new panels or very good condition wheels.

It has a very high adhesion factor also.

thank you...
is wet on wet available in a rattle can ?
ive worked more with wood through the years
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by craigo
thank you...
is wet on wet available in a rattle can ?
ive worked more with wood through the years
Normal rattle can primer can be used as wet on wet if applied properly ie light and even]

The main thing to get right is the repair or flatting of the area to be painted so a very light coat of primer is needed to just give some coverage of the flatted area and adhesion for the colour clear layers.

Not being to big headed about it but I can repair a dent with pin pulling first followed by filling and get it to a level where I can rattle can prime without flatting and paint straight on top.

It really is all in the prep work.
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by prodriverules
Normal rattle can primer can be used as wet on wet if applied properly ie light and even]

The main thing to get right is the repair or flatting of the area to be painted so a very light coat of primer is needed to just give some coverage of the flatted area and adhesion for the colour clear layers.

Not being to big headed about it but I can repair a dent with pin pulling first followed by filling and get it to a level where I can rattle can prime without flatting and paint straight on top.

It really is all in the prep work.
agreed, the prep means everything.
no saving a sinking ship is there
i got some really nice rays wheels, can i prime them and colour, then give to my body shop to lacquer ?
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by craigo
agreed, the prep means everything.
no saving a sinking ship is there
i got some really nice rays wheels, can i prime them and colour, then give to my body shop to lacquer ?
I would let them colour and clear them Craig,you won't save a lot by colouring mate and you can get them to a nice flat finish in primer.
If you colour them and get bits in them it will make the clear coat look sh!te[no offence mate]
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by prodriverules
I would let them colour and clear them Craig,you won't save a lot by colouring mate and you can get them to a nice flat finish in primer.
If you colour them and get bits in them it will make the clear coat look sh!te[no offence mate]
none taken..

all helpful stuff.... thanks again
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 11:50 AM
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What do body/wheel shops do with wheels with bad kerbing? I have chopped a section of the rim of one wheel out on a protruding nut when the car came off a trailer. It's about 10mm x 6mm deep.
Also got some grazes to bright metal on one wheel.
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