Has anyone had a 22b bodykit put on a classic ?
05 October 2007, 01:24 PM
#1
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Has anyone had a 22b bodykit put on a classic ?
I am thinking of putting a 22b bodykit on my Impreza STI RA V limited V5, just a couple of questions.
1. Does anybody know of a reputable place that sells the 22b bodykit.
2. Are the 22b bodykits of good quality from your experience.
Does anyone have any pics of their project at various stages or complete will do. Ta
1. Does anybody know of a reputable place that sells the 22b bodykit.
2. Are the 22b bodykits of good quality from your experience.
Does anyone have any pics of their project at various stages or complete will do. Ta
Last edited by Borat_Drives_A_Scooby; 05 October 2007 at 01:27 PM.
09 October 2007, 10:23 PM
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22b body kit
hi, asked the same questions a couple of days ago about the 22b kit for a classic wagon. No replies yet but I saw them at Welcome Page
you could try them or the scoobyclinic. Need more info myself but the wagon kit at ht autos looks good.
you could try them or the scoobyclinic. Need more info myself but the wagon kit at ht autos looks good.
10 October 2007, 01:04 PM
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The front wings and bumpers should be ok.
The problem is the rear quarter panels, and bonding them on to the steel original body work.
You'll need to get a perfectly smooth join then have it all painted.
So far so good, until you get a little bit of movement at that join and the paint will crack and look a right mess.
Unless you pay the extra for steel panels, I wouldn't bother with fibreglass ones.
The problem is the rear quarter panels, and bonding them on to the steel original body work.
You'll need to get a perfectly smooth join then have it all painted.
So far so good, until you get a little bit of movement at that join and the paint will crack and look a right mess.
Unless you pay the extra for steel panels, I wouldn't bother with fibreglass ones.
10 October 2007, 04:28 PM
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The front wings and bumpers should be ok.
The problem is the rear quarter panels, and bonding them on to the steel original body work.
You'll need to get a perfectly smooth join then have it all painted.
So far so good, until you get a little bit of movement at that join and the paint will crack and look a right mess.
Unless you pay the extra for steel panels, I wouldn't bother with fibreglass ones.
The problem is the rear quarter panels, and bonding them on to the steel original body work.
You'll need to get a perfectly smooth join then have it all painted.
So far so good, until you get a little bit of movement at that join and the paint will crack and look a right mess.
Unless you pay the extra for steel panels, I wouldn't bother with fibreglass ones.
just whack loads of bonding stuff around the pillar (sikaflex?)
10 October 2007, 04:47 PM
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Although they say their useful range is something like -50 deg to 200 deg, the reality is different.
At freezing the bonding becomes hard and brittle, and in hot sunshine it becomes softer that you can mark it with your nail.
Bonding is perfect for putting on a splitter, but trying to get a smooth blend on a quarter panel then painting over it so it's seamless with no join, just doesn't work.
Add in UK roads, stiff suspension and the first bit of movement equals cracked paint.
Don't want to see anyone spending loads of money, then being disappointed with the finished item.
Seen it so many times before.
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10 October 2007, 08:07 PM
#8
The front wings and bumpers should be ok.
The problem is the rear quarter panels, and bonding them on to the steel original body work.
You'll need to get a perfectly smooth join then have it all painted.
So far so good, until you get a little bit of movement at that join and the paint will crack and look a right mess.
Unless you pay the extra for steel panels, I wouldn't bother with fibreglass ones.
The problem is the rear quarter panels, and bonding them on to the steel original body work.
You'll need to get a perfectly smooth join then have it all painted.
So far so good, until you get a little bit of movement at that join and the paint will crack and look a right mess.
Unless you pay the extra for steel panels, I wouldn't bother with fibreglass ones.
11 October 2007, 03:02 AM
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Rally preparation companies will have steel ones, like Prodrive, but they will also be very expensive.
But also try Irish prep companies like Kenny McKinstry, Harper rally prep, even TEG Sport in the UK.
But also try Irish prep companies like Kenny McKinstry, Harper rally prep, even TEG Sport in the UK.
15 October 2007, 05:11 PM
#12
And that's where the problem is with bonding.
Although they say their useful range is something like -50 deg to 200 deg, the reality is different.
At freezing the bonding becomes hard and brittle, and in hot sunshine it becomes softer that you can mark it with your nail.
Bonding is perfect for putting on a splitter, but trying to get a smooth blend on a quarter panel then painting over it so it's seamless with no join, just doesn't work.
Add in UK roads, stiff suspension and the first bit of movement equals cracked paint.
Don't want to see anyone spending loads of money, then being disappointed with the finished item.
Seen it so many times before.
Although they say their useful range is something like -50 deg to 200 deg, the reality is different.
At freezing the bonding becomes hard and brittle, and in hot sunshine it becomes softer that you can mark it with your nail.
Bonding is perfect for putting on a splitter, but trying to get a smooth blend on a quarter panel then painting over it so it's seamless with no join, just doesn't work.
Add in UK roads, stiff suspension and the first bit of movement equals cracked paint.
Don't want to see anyone spending loads of money, then being disappointed with the finished item.
Seen it so many times before.
Ditto what he said....
The bonding will change state with temperature, at a given rate.
The filler used to blend the join changes at a different rate, hence the cracks appear...
15 October 2007, 05:46 PM
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to be honest, i`m not having it 
i refuse to believe that putting them on properly will lend itself to cracks, my mate has just put a VERY expensive RS4 conversion onto his audi and the bonnet has an extension that is bonded on and blended in/then painted.
this has not cracked, i have seen vast amounts of "widearch conversions" over the years and while some do crack, this can be put down to poor prep IMHO
a mate had a very nice escort cosworth conversion years ago when they were "new" and his arches never failed while he had the car (years)
i refuse to believe that putting them on properly will lend itself to cracks, my mate has just put a VERY expensive RS4 conversion onto his audi and the bonnet has an extension that is bonded on and blended in/then painted.
this has not cracked, i have seen vast amounts of "widearch conversions" over the years and while some do crack, this can be put down to poor prep IMHO
a mate had a very nice escort cosworth conversion years ago when they were "new" and his arches never failed while he had the car (years)
01 January 2009, 11:46 AM
#16
I've just seen this thread , we've in the past used sikaflex to bond panels on and it does give problems on occasion . We have now started using a 2 part epoxy adhesive which dries and can be rubbed down like filler . We have tested this on lots of parts now including a few wide arch kits and had no problems .
01 January 2009, 12:01 PM
#17
when i put a wide arch kit on my 205 (t16 rally kit) i pop rivited the rear extensions on all the way around to stop it from flexing, alot of time and skill is needed to fill up all the rivits then blend the edges into the original bodywork but it worked a treat. 
01 January 2009, 01:14 PM
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i think if mine was going to crack, it should have done by now.
the single pack stuff i used was bought from a plastics company who told me it would be ok
also used some of the spare to fix the toilet at work
Last edited by StickyMicky; 01 January 2009 at 01:17 PM.
01 January 2009, 02:55 PM
#19
If you want to see how it should be done have alook at John Stevensons thread in the projects section. Think the 22B kit starts around page 8. It is stunning in the flesh and even nudging and armco right down the LH side at doune caused nothing but a slight scratch no cracking etc. That is as much a testiment to the standard of the kit as well as the superb fitting expertise of craig who done the fitting.
Last edited by Arch; 01 January 2009 at 03:00 PM.
05 January 2009, 02:55 PM
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scoobyclinic 22B 4 door kit £1475 then you have fitting & painting cost, Dont quote me but i think its about £4500 all in and i think they spray the whole car, ive seen the finish product and they do a mint job 
Scooby Clinic | The UK's Largest Independent Subaru Specialists | 01246 590 807 - Chesterfield S42 6QX
Scooby Clinic | The UK's Largest Independent Subaru Specialists | 01246 590 807 - Chesterfield S42 6QX
05 January 2009, 06:00 PM
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13 January 2009, 11:20 PM
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Some fitting guidelines, page not finished yet!
Subaru Impreza 22B Body Kit fitting Instructions/Guidelinesby HTAUTOS
Finished like this...............
Subaru Impreza body kits!
Subaru Impreza 22B Body Kit fitting Instructions/Guidelinesby HTAUTOS
Finished like this...............
Subaru Impreza body kits!
14 January 2009, 12:32 PM
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ScoobyBits | Subaru Specialists // New & Used Parts // Repairs & Servicing sell the kit for £850+VAT worth giving them a shout not sure how much scoobyclinic do it for .... i think the guy there jasemac had it on his yellow scooby 2dr probabley still got pictures of it i know hes sold the car now hope that helps 