Colour Coding
#1
Colour Coding
Has anyone attempted to colour code the side skirts themselves. I have a MY03 and would like them done but dont want to pay over the top for it. My mates a dab hand with a spray can. Is it worth it or should I just go to the local body shop?
#2
Originally Posted by T-1000
Has anyone attempted to colour code the side skirts themselves. I have a MY03 and would like them done but dont want to pay over the top for it. My mates a dab hand with a spray can. Is it worth it or should I just go to the local body shop?
Go to your local body shop,i have tackled most jobs over the years on cars including spraying cars and one thing that requires proffesional equipment is spraying large body panels.you will not get a colour match or good finish(especially with mica paints) with spray cans. Has just cost me £120 for a pair of side skirts including all of the correct plastic primers,undercoats etc .and it is afirst class job.
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You can get a decent result using the spraycan method as long as you take your time and more importantly know what your doing.
Only one downside of doing this is, because your using cans (single pack) then its not going to be as durable as conventional bodyshop methods (2 pack) So as a result the sills are going to be very easily stonechiped.
So weigh up the differences, at the end of the day by the time you buy the proper solvent cleaners/plastic prep/ plastic primers/paint/lacquer etc(to make sure the paint stays on the sills) youre probably looking at a difference of about £50-60 to get it done by a bodyshop.
BTW. Only my humble opinion
hope it goes ok which ever way you choose.
James...
Only one downside of doing this is, because your using cans (single pack) then its not going to be as durable as conventional bodyshop methods (2 pack) So as a result the sills are going to be very easily stonechiped.
So weigh up the differences, at the end of the day by the time you buy the proper solvent cleaners/plastic prep/ plastic primers/paint/lacquer etc(to make sure the paint stays on the sills) youre probably looking at a difference of about £50-60 to get it done by a bodyshop.
BTW. Only my humble opinion
hope it goes ok which ever way you choose.
James...
#6
Thanks james,
It is 2 Pack paint i'm using, along with the plastic Promoter & undercoat.
I had it mixed by a proper paint shop, and I have done this sort of stuff many times now, with near perfect results !.
I know what you mean about going to a bodyshop, but mine wanted £150, & then would they remove the sills and clean them up properly ? (including the black rubber sealing strip that finnishes off the joint) I would rather do the job myself, & know it was done right, for a third of the money
And anyway,........ with the amount of things i'm doing to it, I could do with saving some cash !!! (these mods are addictive)
It is 2 Pack paint i'm using, along with the plastic Promoter & undercoat.
I had it mixed by a proper paint shop, and I have done this sort of stuff many times now, with near perfect results !.
I know what you mean about going to a bodyshop, but mine wanted £150, & then would they remove the sills and clean them up properly ? (including the black rubber sealing strip that finnishes off the joint) I would rather do the job myself, & know it was done right, for a third of the money
And anyway,........ with the amount of things i'm doing to it, I could do with saving some cash !!! (these mods are addictive)
Last edited by G TOMO; 23 February 2004 at 09:54 PM.
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#9
T-1000
I got the paint fron Alan Ward in Cannock, they supply bodyshops ect
Instructions :-
1. Remove & clean sills, then degrease with white spirit.
2. Apply a light coat of plastic promoter.
3. Within 20 mins, apply a mist coat of plastic primer.
4. Wait 10 mins or so, and apply a second mist coat.
5. Repeat 4. until you have filled in the dimples in the plastic sill.
6. When completely dry, lightly rub down with 600 grit wet & dry.
7. Wipe down with white spirit & allow to dry.
8. Apply 2 or 3 mist coats of base colour, & allow to dry completely.
9. Apply 1 or 2 full coats of clear lacquer (be careful not to get any runs) and allow to completely dry.
10. Try to keep the sills in a warm place for a few days, to harden off.
(it is so tempting to keep touching the paint to see if it has dryed, but you must resist, just forget them for a few days)
11. If the finnish isn't as good (smooth) as you'd like, then you can LIGHTLY rub them down with 1200 grit wet & dry, then use T-CUT to bring back the shine !
I will be doing mine this weekend hopefully,
P.S don't try to spay them outside, use a warm, well ventilated garage & a breathing mask, (safty first)
Don't rush to keep putting more paint on before the last coat has dryed.
Good luck, & let me know how it gose.
I got the paint fron Alan Ward in Cannock, they supply bodyshops ect
Instructions :-
1. Remove & clean sills, then degrease with white spirit.
2. Apply a light coat of plastic promoter.
3. Within 20 mins, apply a mist coat of plastic primer.
4. Wait 10 mins or so, and apply a second mist coat.
5. Repeat 4. until you have filled in the dimples in the plastic sill.
6. When completely dry, lightly rub down with 600 grit wet & dry.
7. Wipe down with white spirit & allow to dry.
8. Apply 2 or 3 mist coats of base colour, & allow to dry completely.
9. Apply 1 or 2 full coats of clear lacquer (be careful not to get any runs) and allow to completely dry.
10. Try to keep the sills in a warm place for a few days, to harden off.
(it is so tempting to keep touching the paint to see if it has dryed, but you must resist, just forget them for a few days)
11. If the finnish isn't as good (smooth) as you'd like, then you can LIGHTLY rub them down with 1200 grit wet & dry, then use T-CUT to bring back the shine !
I will be doing mine this weekend hopefully,
P.S don't try to spay them outside, use a warm, well ventilated garage & a breathing mask, (safty first)
Don't rush to keep putting more paint on before the last coat has dryed.
Good luck, & let me know how it gose.
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