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Morn all, been thinking its about time i lavished some money on the bits you can't see on the car, as in the underside/wheel arches of my 06 Hawk, really haven't the time or space to do it myself and I'm too bloody lazy if I'm honest lol has anyone used a Dinitrol treatment centre or rustbusters/rust.co.uk recently to have their car done and if so do these places do a decent job, don't want to end up with the brakes/coilovers and exhaust getting covered in the stuff!
I had a local bodyshop do my jdm leggy as they were a lot cheaper the the rust.co.uk options, plus easier to get to. They did a pretty good job, but really it's something that time will tell. There are lots of stories out there of dodgy underseal where water/mud has been sealed in and caused rust, so take it somewhere you trust.
Yeah cheers fella, will have a hunt about before i decide where to get it done, just want a decent job done and like i said earlier don't wanna end up having it done and find out there covered calipers/coilovers/exhaust and alike in bloody underseal and all
I had a local bodyshop do my jdm leggy as they were a lot cheaper the the rust.co.uk options, plus easier to get to. They did a pretty good job, but really it's something that time will tell. There are lots of stories out there of dodgy underseal where water/mud has been sealed in and caused rust, so take it somewhere you trust.
Out of curiosity how much were the rust.co.uk quotes ?
I got a quote from my nearest Dinitrol treatment centre and it was 275-300 quid depending on the condition of the underbody and how much prep work is required,they would need to view the car first to give an exact price and discuss what colour to use and which treatment to have.
It was about £350 from my nearest rust.co.uk franchise (dunmow), I think the most expensive was from a classic car place for about £450 and the cheapest from a backstreet place for roughly £120.
I got a quote from my nearest Dinitrol treatment centre and it was 275-300 quid depending on the condition of the underbody and how much prep work is required,they would need to view the car first to give an exact price and discuss what colour to use and which treatment to have.
Anyone done research into the different products being used Dinitrol, waxoyl etc etc ?
I know the Dinitrol centre uses Bilt-Hamber Hydrate 80 to prep the underbody for rust but not sure about what they use to underseal it, they discuss the colours/different types of Dinitrol they recommend after their carried out an inspection of your car
I think 350 is a good price if its done well. I as looking at buying dintarol aerosol kit £100 and doing it my self, by the tine I pressure wash, clean, strip, and work out where to spray and cavitys to spray I bet i spend a lot of hours. Any advice on cavity protection would be greatly appreciated.
Im gunna get some underbody parts powder coated too I think.
I heard bilt hammer best then dintsrol then waxoil last. I've been told waxoil can seal in moisture and wont kill rust. But also I know two 20 year old golfs with waxoil teatment done when less that 12m old and it still looks like a new underbody at 100k.
Litraly the clear waxoil looks like it was done yesterday especially in the wheel wells.
So who has personal experience of treating an untreated 10year+ car
I'm currently in the middle of doing this myself on a widetrack blob.
Noticed a few rust spots underneath so taking advantage of the winter period, decided to get it on stands and take the undertray off. What I saw horrified me. Rust everywhere!!! Thankfully surface, I think. I have the factory underseal/rubberized stuff sprayed on various places doing a terrible job and bizzarly missing in most areas. The arches appeared saturated in the stuff yet rust had crept in underneath the underseal so I couldnt see it.
So for me, I've spent 6 weeks on/off scrapping everything off, just onto sanding back to bare metal now. I'm going down the POR15 route fully underneath and in the arches, sills etc with bilt hamber s50 for cavity spaces etc.
Its a long process and it's frustrating but for me, I don't believe anybody will go into the detail I want. I spoke with a few places who just said "yeah we'll clean it and put waxoil on it"
up to you but that ain't for me
Last edited by ScoobyFC; Jan 28, 2018 at 01:47 AM.
I've always done the job myself. Rear arches done separately - washed with hose and brush paying attention to removing everything from the arch. Let dry and apply treatment
For the rest of it, get the car on a ramp and use compressor to apply - simple
Im in two minds about having it done still but as my local Dinitrol centre is local ish ( hour away in Chelmsford) i'll take my car there and have a chat to see what they have to offer and look at the work their done on other cars before making a decision one way or the other
Waxoil sealing in dirt and rust is far worse than doing nothing ; my truck literally rotted away in a year after being waxoiled locally. Ideally I would steam it, allow to dry over a couple of hot summer days, or in a dry garage, and use bilt Hamber
^ Steaming is too aggressive - it will fetch paint (and pretty much everything else too) off
Fair point; on the truck the local gravel pit formed an almost cement like layer which was acidic and needed steaming, but definitely over the top for a car
Im in two minds about having it done still but as my local Dinitrol centre is local ish ( hour away in Chelmsford) i'll take my car there and have a chat to see what they have to offer and look at the work their done on other cars before making a decision one way or the other
There's a rust co.uk place over in Dunmow if you're looking for a comparison.