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Alarm sometimes not arming/disarming

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Old 25 February 2006, 12:17 PM
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molko
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Default Alarm sometimes not arming/disarming

I have a MY02 WRX with Sigma M30 alarm retro-fitted with seperate key fob becuase it was a EU impreza brought to the UK - i think. Anyway there is definatly a seperate key fob.

Now sometimes, it takes ages to disarm the alarm, i can be there pressing the key fob button for about 2-3 mins, and other times it works perfectly. I dont think its the battery in the key fob as i tried my spare key fob and it was the same - pressing like mad for ages then finally the car disarmed.

I think the common factor is when its been raining - cant confirm this, as its only been happening over the last few weeks.

Anyone any idea what the problem is ?

Thanks
Old 26 February 2006, 10:04 AM
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Sigma Sam
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Could be a couple of possibilities here:
- Firstly I'd try a new set of batteries. Although you had the same problem with the spare Radio Key, lithium cells do discharge over time even without use. The LED on the Radio Key takes minimal voltage to illuminate it and so cannot be used as a guide to battery condition.
- It could be a case of Radio Lock out as both keys fail to operate the system. See my cut and paste below for details of this. Although this issue was addressed on 2001MY UK Subarus, however although your system was purchased from a specialist in 2002 it may have been in stock for some time and have the earlier reciever board.
The problem may only recently have started to occur due to a new aerial mast in the area - does the problem seem to occur at the same location?
As detailed below, ensure you know the systems PIN and how to enter it into the keypad - this should allow you to disarm the system in such circumstances.

Radio Lock Out:
- All alarm systems manufactured for use in the UK in ’99 were required to operate on the frequency of 433MHz. Subsequently, in late 2000, the government allowed the introduction of the “Tetra” radio network for telecommunications companies, the military, police, fire and ambulance services etc, which was allocated the 420-430MHz bandwidths.
Although not exactly the same frequency, these “Tetra” transmitters are licensed and so are allowed to operate at around 20,000 watts, compared with the alarm systems 0.5 watt radio key (necessary so that your radio keys remain exempt from annual licensing fees!)
As a result, when you are near a transmitting “Tetra” mast you can get a degree of “bleed over” as their signal is so much stronger and this can swamp the transmission from the radio key. This problem is not exclusive to this system and can occur on any number of manufacturers systems produced prior to 2001.
The receiver boards were redesigned to focus more accurately on the 433.92HHz frequency as soon as this problem became evident, however, systems manufactured before 2001, with the older receiver boards, are not faulty and were not considered eligible for warranty, although as a goodwill measure, customers who suffered from “exceptional” radio lock-out (ie lived or worked below a mast) were offered an upgraded receiver board if the vehicle was still within the warranty period.
This goodwill period was extended for a further 12 months after the 3 year warranty period expired, but ended in December 2004. The later ECUs are still available from Subaru (part number SACC 3465) but these are now chargeable.

Avoidance:
There are a few points that should be remembered:
- All vehicles that passed through the import centre from January 2001 are equipped with the latest receiver boards that are "Tetra Resistant" and so should not experience this problem.
- A keypad is fitted to ALL models with the UK standard fit alarm system (from 99 MY) as an emergency override, in the event of loss, damage, flat radio key battery etc. (The keypad also allows the driver to access a number of features and is a complete programming tool for the dealers) and so pushing/recovery of vehicle’s should not be necessary provided you know your override PIN and ow to operate the keypad.
- The keypad can NOT be affected by "Radio Lock-Out", as it is hard wired into the system and does not rely on a radio transmission.
- The keypad allows only THREE PIN attempts and then will "Lock Up" if an incorrect number is entered a third time. This is a secuity feature to prevent random attempts at steeling the vehicle, however, it is also an inconvenience if you are suffering "Radio Lock Out" and enter your PIN incorrectly.
- The PIN number should not be entered too quickly or too slowly - when a digit has been pressed the small LED built into the keypad will illuminate briefly as confirmation and only then should the next digit be entered.
If an incorrect digit is pressed or the delay between entering digits exceeds10 seconds, then the LED above the keypad will flash rapidly and the PIN attempt should be aborted and started again after 30 seconds.
Due to the small size of the keypad some users may find a rubber tipped pencil easier to use. DO NOT use the sharp tip of a ball point pen etc, or press excessively hard on the keypad as this will only damage the membrane and cause a digit to remain pressed, causing a continual incorrect PIN.

My advice is to read the alarm system's instruction manual and practice entering the PIN before you need it. If you do not know your PIN, or bought the car second hand (in which case the PIN may have been changed by the previous owner) you can change the PIN to one of your own choosing, using the keypad, provided that you have a working Radio Key.

Changing your PIN:
- Arm and then Disarm the system using a working Radio Key.
- Within 30 seconds of disarming, type into the keypad- *17856*92*wxyz*wxyz# (where wxyz is your new PIN code)
- Arm the system with the Radio Key
- You should now be able to disarm the system using the new PIN code

Further information can be found in the systems Operating Instructions. If you do not have a copy of the Operating Instructions a link to a copy used to be available at:
http://www.subaru-impreza.org/subaru...pic.php?t=2476

Ensure your keypad is operational before you need it on a dark night!
I hope this has cleared up a number of points that have been raised and will help to keep everyone mobile.
SS
Old 26 February 2006, 11:31 AM
  #3  
molko
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Originally Posted by Sigma Sam
Could be a couple of possibilities here:
- Firstly I'd try a new set of batteries. Although you had the same problem with the spare Radio Key, lithium cells do discharge over time even without use. The LED on the Radio Key takes minimal voltage to illuminate it and so cannot be used as a guide to battery condition.
- It could be a case of Radio Lock out as both keys fail to operate the system. See my cut and paste below for details of this. Although this issue was addressed on 2001MY UK Subarus, however although your system was purchased from a specialist in 2002 it may have been in stock for some time and have the earlier reciever board.
The problem may only recently have started to occur due to a new aerial mast in the area - does the problem seem to occur at the same location?
As detailed below, ensure you know the systems PIN and how to enter it into the keypad - this should allow you to disarm the system in such circumstances.

Radio Lock Out:
- All alarm systems manufactured for use in the UK in ’99 were required to operate on the frequency of 433MHz. Subsequently, in late 2000, the government allowed the introduction of the “Tetra” radio network for telecommunications companies, the military, police, fire and ambulance services etc, which was allocated the 420-430MHz bandwidths.
Although not exactly the same frequency, these “Tetra” transmitters are licensed and so are allowed to operate at around 20,000 watts, compared with the alarm systems 0.5 watt radio key (necessary so that your radio keys remain exempt from annual licensing fees!)
As a result, when you are near a transmitting “Tetra” mast you can get a degree of “bleed over” as their signal is so much stronger and this can swamp the transmission from the radio key. This problem is not exclusive to this system and can occur on any number of manufacturers systems produced prior to 2001.
The receiver boards were redesigned to focus more accurately on the 433.92HHz frequency as soon as this problem became evident, however, systems manufactured before 2001, with the older receiver boards, are not faulty and were not considered eligible for warranty, although as a goodwill measure, customers who suffered from “exceptional” radio lock-out (ie lived or worked below a mast) were offered an upgraded receiver board if the vehicle was still within the warranty period.
This goodwill period was extended for a further 12 months after the 3 year warranty period expired, but ended in December 2004. The later ECUs are still available from Subaru (part number SACC 3465) but these are now chargeable.

Avoidance:
There are a few points that should be remembered:
- All vehicles that passed through the import centre from January 2001 are equipped with the latest receiver boards that are "Tetra Resistant" and so should not experience this problem.
- A keypad is fitted to ALL models with the UK standard fit alarm system (from 99 MY) as an emergency override, in the event of loss, damage, flat radio key battery etc. (The keypad also allows the driver to access a number of features and is a complete programming tool for the dealers) and so pushing/recovery of vehicle’s should not be necessary provided you know your override PIN and ow to operate the keypad.
- The keypad can NOT be affected by "Radio Lock-Out", as it is hard wired into the system and does not rely on a radio transmission.
- The keypad allows only THREE PIN attempts and then will "Lock Up" if an incorrect number is entered a third time. This is a secuity feature to prevent random attempts at steeling the vehicle, however, it is also an inconvenience if you are suffering "Radio Lock Out" and enter your PIN incorrectly.
- The PIN number should not be entered too quickly or too slowly - when a digit has been pressed the small LED built into the keypad will illuminate briefly as confirmation and only then should the next digit be entered.
If an incorrect digit is pressed or the delay between entering digits exceeds10 seconds, then the LED above the keypad will flash rapidly and the PIN attempt should be aborted and started again after 30 seconds.
Due to the small size of the keypad some users may find a rubber tipped pencil easier to use. DO NOT use the sharp tip of a ball point pen etc, or press excessively hard on the keypad as this will only damage the membrane and cause a digit to remain pressed, causing a continual incorrect PIN.

My advice is to read the alarm system's instruction manual and practice entering the PIN before you need it. If you do not know your PIN, or bought the car second hand (in which case the PIN may have been changed by the previous owner) you can change the PIN to one of your own choosing, using the keypad, provided that you have a working Radio Key.

Changing your PIN:
- Arm and then Disarm the system using a working Radio Key.
- Within 30 seconds of disarming, type into the keypad- *17856*92*wxyz*wxyz# (where wxyz is your new PIN code)
- Arm the system with the Radio Key
- You should now be able to disarm the system using the new PIN code

Further information can be found in the systems Operating Instructions. If you do not have a copy of the Operating Instructions a link to a copy used to be available at:
http://www.subaru-impreza.org/subaru...pic.php?t=2476

Ensure your keypad is operational before you need it on a dark night!
I hope this has cleared up a number of points that have been raised and will help to keep everyone mobile.
SS
Cheers for all that, i'll give it a thorough read in the next few minutes. Just for further information, just took the car to get some fuel, filled up, then it struggled to disarm alarm, after 20-30seconds it disarmed, drove home, again struggled to set the alarm(20-30s), just washed the car, and the arming/disarming is working fine - weird.

I'll read the above very carefully, thanks for the assistance

cheers
Old 26 February 2006, 11:37 AM
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molko
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the link to http://www.subaru-impreza.org/subaru...pic.php?t=2476 is dead !. Do you know what the correct URL is ?
Old 26 February 2006, 05:48 PM
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Sigma Sam
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Originally Posted by molko
the link to http://www.subaru-impreza.org/subaru...pic.php?t=2476 is dead !. Do you know what the correct URL is ?
Sorry, we set that link up a long while ago now, but it looks like the forum has had a re-shuffle and the link has got lost - it does mention a couple of things to try, but don't know if they take you anywhere.
At the risk of opening the flood gates here, If you PM me your e-mail address I can e-mail you a PDF version.

By the way, is your keypad functioning ok? The system's aerial lead is attached at the same point, so if the keypad comes unplugged so does the aerial lead..... just a thought.

SS
Old 13 March 2006, 07:03 PM
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molko
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Thanks for the PDF, much appreciated. I have now reprogrammed the unit with my own PIN number, it works a treat - at least i wont get stuck anywhere now.

Ive ordered some new batteries, lets see if that makes a difference.

I have noticed sometimes that when i disarm via the keyfob, then start the car, when i turn the key i get a beeping sound from the Alarm, the car starts OK....just weird why it beeps - it only last about 1/2second, maybe not even that long ?
Do you have any idea what this could be ?

Cheers
Old 20 March 2006, 11:20 AM
  #7  
Sigma Sam
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Yep, the noise is produced from the siren.
When your cranking the engine over, the vehicle’s battery voltage is dropping so low that the siren thinks that someone has cut it’s power supply – the beep is the siren’s internal battery kicking in, then it realizes its disarmed anyway.
Unfortunately, the cause is a starter motor drawing too much current or more likely the battery not holding sufficient charge (or a combination of both) – Always becomes evident this time of year as things get cold and the starter has to work harder to turn the engine over.

You can check the vehicle’s battery voltage using the keypad by pressing “8” on the keypad with the ignition “on”. Then turn the ignition “off” within 5 seconds and count the flashes from the alarm LED. 12 flashes=12 volt.
Obviously, being electrically operated, if the battery voltage is negligable then this feature will not work.

SS
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