Changing discs and pads help with some info please
#1
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Changing discs and pads help with some info please
Changing discs and pads tomorrow on bug sti is there anything not the norm I need to be aware of and are the rears easy with the handbrake shoes being inside them ?
Thanks
Thanks
#4
18 June 1815 - Waterloo
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Basic principles are here.
Be careful with Brembo's as the caliper bolts can strip the helicoils.
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...sc-4-pots.html
With rears, ensure the car is in gear, chock the front wheels and leave the hand brake off.
The discs can stick on, so loads of lube and a good rubber hammer to batter them off.
Or do this.
http://www.scoobymods.com/attachment...7&d=1018162382
Be careful with Brembo's as the caliper bolts can strip the helicoils.
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...sc-4-pots.html
With rears, ensure the car is in gear, chock the front wheels and leave the hand brake off.
The discs can stick on, so loads of lube and a good rubber hammer to batter them off.
Or do this.
http://www.scoobymods.com/attachment...7&d=1018162382
Last edited by The Trooper 1815; 13 March 2014 at 09:09 PM.
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Basically what's already been said mate, but make sure you slacken the rear handbrake shoes right off. Don't force the rear discs off, they should just slide off if you have slackened them off enough. Otherwise you will end up with snapped springs and clips everywhere!
#15
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Second this. Did my Brembos on my MY11 2 weeks ago, only 3 years old and 3 out of 4 threads stripped on the way out. I put helicoil inserts in all and bought new high tensile bolts from local fastener firm 1/10 price of subaru. Better than new!
#18
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I knew the risk was high so bought everything before starting job. Took me 6 hours but saved a small fortune by doing it myself.
With yours being much older there is a chance they have already been done.
Threads are M12 x 1.5p. I used 16.7mm long helicoils M12 x 1.5p. Which is a fine thread metric so not your standard M12. Bolts are M12 x 1.5p x 35mm high tensile set screws. Would only recommend doing it yourself if you have a pillar drill to drill and tap the calipers square.
With yours being much older there is a chance they have already been done.
Threads are M12 x 1.5p. I used 16.7mm long helicoils M12 x 1.5p. Which is a fine thread metric so not your standard M12. Bolts are M12 x 1.5p x 35mm high tensile set screws. Would only recommend doing it yourself if you have a pillar drill to drill and tap the calipers square.
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Yes only one of mine stripped thread and needed helicoiling.helicoiling is not really recommended for brakes but these bremos suffer 'galvanic corrosion' due to the calipers being aluminium & bolts being steel,so if you simply re-tap a new hole it will only happen again,unless you could use an aluminium bolt which I dont like the sound of either,so helicoiling seems the only option and I haven't heard of anyone having dangerous issues,yet!
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Well perhaps people could re-tap new hole to match the thread of a high tensile stainless bolt if they don't corrode and react with the aluminium. Would be better than helicoiling in my view.
#25
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Helicoil inserts provide a stronger assembly than direct into alloy threads. This is because the inherent flexibility of the insert provide a balanced distribution of the loads. Thread wear is also reduced. Being stainless it also means there is no corrosion issues.
To be honest the manufacturer should helicoil but I assume they don't bother to cut cost.
To be honest the manufacturer should helicoil but I assume they don't bother to cut cost.
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Helicoil inserts provide a stronger assembly than direct into alloy threads. This is because the inherent flexibility of the insert provide a balanced distribution of the loads. Thread wear is also reduced. Being stainless it also means there is no corrosion issues.
To be honest the manufacturer should helicoil but I assume they don't bother to cut cost.
To be honest the manufacturer should helicoil but I assume they don't bother to cut cost.
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