New guy to forum all and picked uma Hawkeye on Saturday with it being my first Subaru.I have £2000 left over from car budget so what is best mod for my £2000 as car is STI fully standard the now.Had M3 previously.

 

Forge the engine, you'll need to add another £600 to your 2k though, speak to David at API.

 

A Remap to make sure everything is running ok,and a power rise at the same time.SJ.

 

You may like to read this:

https://www.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-...-failures.html

 

I was going to say that but the 2k budget is a tad low,plus if it's not broke no need to fix at present just enjoy it and drive get use to it then if it craps itself then forge it.SJ.

 

thanks all for taking time to give me yours views. worth modding to make it quicker if car need forged or save another £1000 and do that first?

 

Forge it first

Give us some more info on the car , mileage etc

 

Personally I'd be looking at something like a type 25 suspension upgrade.
Next inline might be a brake upgrade.
Standard BHP is OK IMO, when the engine needs a rebuild, can go down the upgrade path more safely.
Just my 2p worth.

 

thanks again. its a hawkeye 56 plate with 40k. any trend on the engines going such as mileage or anytime at all.

 

A VTA dump valve is the best value for money mod

 

Did 90K on mine before it needed HG and rebuild.
PPP, mapped by JGM and did plenty of track days as well.
Don't thrash it cold, and don't bother going above 6000 rpm would be my advice.

 

thanks cster. thats decent mileage before it went matey

 

Got an API rebuild now with an SC38 turbo putting out 370 BHP now.
Done 30K and about eight track days and stiil going strong

 

Stop it!! you'll confuse the lad

 

30,000 miles it's worn out Time for another rebuild Sir........

 

Honestly mate forge it first, then have it mapped with the standard turbo and maybe a full de-cat.

It's all well and good folks saying 'if it aint broke don't fix it' but WHEN it DOES **** it's self it WILL cost a lot more than £2600 ish to fix it as opposed to doing it before, because of the distinct possibility of bits of broken piston and rings damaging the bores, heads and valves, along with all the bits of metal going around the oil galleries screwing the crank and oil modine, can easily turn into a £4/5k bill and possibly more if the block is screwed too.

 

Are you kidding - I am still on the running in oil mate

 

See?, there's your first problem

 

Thanks everyone for posting

 

So all 2.5 engines blow up then apparently?

 

It's not a matter of if unfortunately it's more a case of when, the thread at the top of this page will tell you all you need to know about the 2.5L engine. There are the very odd ones that have made it to 100k but they are few and far between. As in my post above you can take the chance if you like, but 2 things to bare in mind are the major inconvenience and cost involved getting it taken to a specialist when it goes pop, as well as the extra parts and work required which will push the price of putting it right up by roughly £1500 if your lucky.

With all the information about the 2.5L engines know problems if I were to buy one i'd be afraid to push it and waiting for it to let go, so could never feel comfortable taking it for a blast or on a long run as it's asking for trouble, so i'd spend the £2/3k and get it sorted, then you have a great road car and piece of mind.

 

The common reply for anyone buying a hawk on here is to forge the engine but you could own the car for 5-6 years trouble free yes the 2.5 have problems but for the time being just enjoy the car and get to know your scoob.

If it was my money first thing would be a good catback system to enjoy the scooby sound

 

The " own it 5 - 6 years " thing might be a possibility if the car was new. But this one isn't and there [ as usual ] will be little information about how it has been used and maintained.

So, a car that is already some way down the wearing out route, is a different prospect to a new car.

However, It can be treated sympathetically and driven hard between 3000 and 5500 rpm with little chance of harm and as soon as the engine starts to idle unevenly or starts to use oil or the temperature rises when on boost Stop at that point and go looking for a builder to put it right. On a 2.5 with it's small turbo, there is little happening above 5500 and going up above there is just wearing out a bunch of stuff unnecessarily.

Delaying, as said previously on this thread, can do untold harm if the pistons start to break up and damage the bores. We would never ever contemplate re-boring a 2.5 previously, as the cylinder walls are too thin standard and boring them .50 mm will only make them weaker. But Mahle do a .25 oversize piston these days and we have used these for over a year now with great success.

Cars on them, plus our other upgrades to the 2.5, are making over 400 hp reliably and regularly.

David APi

 

Have a chat with AndyH at Richard Henry Motorsport in Bradford....

dunx

P.S. best value mod on my car was an uprated Whiteline rear anti-roll bar....