how common is head gasket failure in scoobies
20 January 2014, 03:16 PM
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Seems that it can be quite common in the 2.5ltr engine.
Why?? poor design buy the sounds of it, but compounded when power is upped from standard.
Prevention.... replace head gaskets and studs.
Done up the power...too much.
I have 108,000 mile on a standard 2.5 with no problems, But I am told regularly it will happen very soon.
Why?? poor design buy the sounds of it, but compounded when power is upped from standard.
Prevention.... replace head gaskets and studs.
Done up the power...too much.
I have 108,000 mile on a standard 2.5 with no problems, But I am told regularly it will happen very soon.
20 January 2014, 04:19 PM
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Generally speaking, the 2.0 versions only have "failures" on the early composite type gaskets. Apart from those, the multi layer versions including 2.5's don't so much fail as leak.
The 2.5's seem to be prone to this for no apparent reason other than the man at the factory didn't tighten them up enough.
The 2.5's seem to be prone to this for no apparent reason other than the man at the factory didn't tighten them up enough.
20 January 2014, 06:32 PM
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Just on a fishing trip of knowledge tbh. I'm on my third classic at the moment I bought her a few weeks ago with genuine 87k on her from new. She's a w reg uk spec.
Last week we checked anti freeze strength and it was low. We drained out approx 3 litres from rad tap and added some fresh anti freeze. The following three days the temp gauge appeared to rise to normal quickly but heater still blowing cold until after approx half a mile the heat would come through at same roundabout when i gave her some beans and remain blowing warm.
This was the norm for three mornings. Then i checked the water and she took a litre to get her up to level.
Friday night the lower rad burst open due to a previously damaged area and sods law of interfering with the coolant. I pulled over straight away and didn't overheat her.
Now we seem to have one almighty air lock that is behaving like hgf and has got me worried as I gave up on my last car a few weeks ago due to hgf & costing me too much and didn't get on the road in two years.
I have tried back filing her via the turbo hose from the rear of the header tank but still the gauge goes up to normal whilst the rad is cold and no heater warmth at all.
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY OF BLEEDING PLEASE!!
Last week we checked anti freeze strength and it was low. We drained out approx 3 litres from rad tap and added some fresh anti freeze. The following three days the temp gauge appeared to rise to normal quickly but heater still blowing cold until after approx half a mile the heat would come through at same roundabout when i gave her some beans and remain blowing warm.
This was the norm for three mornings. Then i checked the water and she took a litre to get her up to level.
Friday night the lower rad burst open due to a previously damaged area and sods law of interfering with the coolant. I pulled over straight away and didn't overheat her.
Now we seem to have one almighty air lock that is behaving like hgf and has got me worried as I gave up on my last car a few weeks ago due to hgf & costing me too much and didn't get on the road in two years.
I have tried back filing her via the turbo hose from the rear of the header tank but still the gauge goes up to normal whilst the rad is cold and no heater warmth at all.
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY OF BLEEDING PLEASE!!
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