Hi guys

I need some advice. I bought a heavily tuned 2004 STI a few days ago.

It boosts 1.1 Bar on low boost and 1.6 - 1.8 Bar on high boost.

When i opened the catch can, it was just an empty can. with some oil in. There wasn't a pipe returning to the engine either.

I removed the sh|te.

So now I have an open pipe that will blow air and oil onto the road. Other than being bad for the environment, what else can happen?

I really appreciate all advice. I live really far out in the country side. I cannot just take it in to have a new can fitted. I'll need to drive about 220km to a workshop....

 

Connect the catch can back up simples,you have just described exactly what the catch can does you can get them to return to sump if you had the appropriate one in the first place but as I said before just connect it back up and check it every couple of months or so empty it and carry on job done.SJ.

 

I should have mentioned, the can leaked a lot. The 'drain plug' didn't seal properly, and to top it off, the gasket perished when i opened it. So it will leak even more. My whole engine was covered in oil from the can leaking.

 

Rather than drive to the workshop, could you not order a replacement that has similar dimensions and fit that in the place of the old one? Saves leaking even more oil around the engine bay.

 

It sounds like the guy you brought your car from used a eBay special catch can,with how you are describing it with all those leaks and inferior parts used in its makeup,just get a catch can thats fit for purpose,RCM do a very good one I have there track attack version which returns to sump a superb piece of kit and highly recommended.SJ.

 

I was thinking about it. the bracket holding it, is specific. So i will look into that. The car has some really great parts is, otherwise i wouldn't have bought it. This alleged catch can is the only negative point about it.
I want to take the car in to get braided fuel rails done, so i thought i could have the catch can done at the same time, maybe. And I don't know where the hell the return pipe should go?

 

To the sump.SJ.

 

isnt the outgoing pipe meant to relieve sump pressure?

on conventional cars , i see this pipe return to the head or tappet cover, or into the air inlet pipe (hopefully after the MAF sensor)

 

This might help you:https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...n-to-sump.htmlSJ.

 

thanks SJ

 

You don't need a return pipe. The three breathers can just vent into the can, the residue will stay in the can and the gas will leave via the small filter on top of the can or out of another port.
Check the can every couple of months and empty if nessasary.

For now, you can use anything to catch the residue. Cut a coke can in half and cable tie it into the engine bay. Order yourself a new can and fit that when it arrives.

 

Most catch cans ive seen are designed wrong. . With nothing inside there is nothing to separate the oik from the air. Pad it 1/3 full of course steel wool..

Then get back on here after a week.

 

Seal the drain plug with sealent then remove the can to pour any oil out. Simples!!!

 

thanks, thought of that. but that catch can is fecked. the gasket is torn, it will leak. i'm planning to make a home made one filled with steel wool.

 

 

the bottom gasket is wasted too. that thing will leak man.

 

Just buy one off import car parts... whack some wool in. If there is nothing in there after a month.... forget about it.

 

this can actually had some oil in, maybe a 100ml. if i can get silicone to seal properly instead of the gasket that perished, I can use that to seal the bottom of it, where the cover goes on. And that should then also work for the drain plug, like 360ste mentioned above. It will look better than a home made thing sitting there.

By the way there is a ATF leak just above the power steering pump. I heard it's a common problem. That copper washer needs replacing?
Can I just simply take off that pipe feeding the ATF and then fit a new washer and screw it all back together? Will it need bleeding or something?

 

Do not use steel wool.
Steel wool will rust with the amount of condesate that collects in a can. If you are intent on putting some kind of material for the oil to accummulate on make sure it won't corrode or fatigue and fall apart.
Buy a proper can designed for the job with integral baffling already built in. Nothing that works properly comes cheaply, but if you cut corners you may end up a lot worse off in the long run.

 

Galvanised chain will work as a internal baffle ( seen it done before )
Although something tells me the OP
Isn't goin to design a coke can catch can
Either put your hand in your pocket , or get fabricating

 

I got some copper wool just now. I don't care if it corrodes. This is a temporary solution. I'll get a proper one fitted when I take it in to have the braided fuel lines installed.

Anyone care to comment on my power steering leak I mentioned above?

 

You will kill some motorcyclists?

I used to run an internally baffled oil catch tank with a return to the sump.
Breathers from cam cover and block. Job done

Was custom made by proalloy in the uk.

 

Good point about the bikers. I haven't started the car without the tank yet.

I'll sort the thing out.

 

Sounds like a proper job

 

Certainly wasnt cheap tho

 

"Oil on road" .....?

Unlikely to be enough for a badger... never mind a biker.

Buses and trucks p1ss out oils and fluids compared to cars.

Worry about them first.

 

It doesnt take a lot tho on a bike, most bike tyres contact patch is about the size of the palm of your hand....

mid corner, your ****ed!

also you have no idea at what rate the OP's car breaths at but hey ho...

 

Return to sump ... Job done.

 

If you saw some if the **** that collected in my can you certainly wouldn't want a return to sump setup.

 

get one of these. Run one on my hatch & its a great piece of kit

http://www.obpltd.com/Alloy-Products...ank-OBPCTSU02B