Righty then lads,

Just acquired myself a 1200square ft workshop that the car will be living in.

Now this gives me room to set up all my tools and what not along with the engine stand. And also means I have no commitment to work on it until I have time etc as it won't be in the way of anything!

I have a cdb. That I will be building into a 2.1 stroker engine to have as a spare for when my stroker let's go.

Will be looking for 600+hp on it.

What exactly will I be requiring to do on the build?

Strip the block halves, clean etc.

Then machine wise it will be convert to rear thrust bearings, face and skim bloack halves, and a rebore etc.

Regrind crank

Then new pistons rods etc and balance rotating assembly.

Port, polish and knife edge the heads.

Now the heads on the cdb, are hydraulic lifters etc, which are no good for that kind of power so I'll want to convert to solid lifters, do I need new heads or is it just change the lifters etc?

Is there any prep work I have missed?

Obviously painting and zinc plated bolts etc will be happening too. Lots of powder coating aswell!

This is going to be a slow build as I am in no rush for my second engine yet!

 

First thing would be to start a thread in the projects section then mate, and the more pictures the better lol.
You'd need a 2.5 litre crank to make it a "stroker" as it has a 79mm (longer) stroke than the 2l crank. I'd say get V3/4 STI heads with shims under bucket like mine .
600BHP though I'd say you'd need to have a rotated turbo set up, huge injectors, Syvecs or Alcatek ECU probably AVCS.
Factor in for huge brakes, and with them wheels they will fit under. And at that power a 6speed box is required.

Oh, and be prepared to be in a state of confusion, changing your mind every 5 minutes, feeling low and depressed, like there's no light at the end of the tunnel. Your mind will always have something on it.

 

It Has already got all the above, its running 517hp now. I have a project thread

The original stroker engine has done 20k miles at that power and has always been driven like it was stolen. But when warmed up and cooled correctly with regular maintenance it has never had any issues! But it won't last forever!

Is it not possibly to convert the heads from hydraulic to solid lifters then? If so I'll get them sold and pick up some v3sti heads the same as what I have fitted now!

This is more of a project out of the fact I have the cdb and am in no rush or need for it and I can just take my time and pay real attention to the detail!

 

Ah ok, didn't realise you already had a monster build, you greedy ******* lol.

I don't think it's possible to change from hydraulic to solid lifters, but I could be wrong, but STI heads have been sold on here recently for £200-£300.

So are you taking the bits from one car to put on the other?

 

No I shall be building the engine completely anew and separate to the existing build. The car will be running through out the cdb will literally just be a spare!

My existing stroker engine is on an odb and with the amount of power and miles it has done I think a second back up engine will be worth having! Look up my project thread

 

Go for AVCS heads for the new build, plenty of options on them to make them bullet proof

 

As above Banny said,go with AVCS and you have plenty options and yours AlcaTek can run AVCS with extra wiring and enabling AVCS(this must be enabled by dealer or AlcaTek itself)

If its budget then Big port heads with nice cams(Kelford or Cosworth),springs,retainers and valves and you can have great spec'd heads

Jura

 

What benefits would I get from avcs over the big port oversized valves and lairy cams etc?

The plan so far was serious porting polishing and lairy cams etc on the standard heads.

I'm lead to believe I can fit the under bucket shims straight into this head? Is this correct? If so that will make my decision as I will fit these with some lairy cams.

I know a guy who has a long history with these heads who can port and polish them etc to WRC spec . So I can get these sorted.

So with the over sized valves and serious head works this should be better than avcs heads?

The other thing is banny I saw your 600/470 figure and the torque is really low, what would be the best compromise cams to keep a decent torque?

 

Where would you get the shim under bucket set up?

 

Out of a v4 sti like you mentioned above? I am running v3 sti heads and cams in my set up now with no head work or anything similar. But they have shims on top of the buckets so that is no use for me!

 

V3 sti heads are underbucket shims

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-3-or-2-a.html

 

I'm managed to destroy a bucket and shim a few months back and I definitely have v3 sti heads. I believe I had a disc ontop of the bucket that was the shim? does anyone have any pictures of the actual underside of the bucket?

 

You can fit EG33 exhaust shimless buckets into V3/4 heads, with the correct springs, bottom platforms & top retainers, if going for high rpm its a worthwile investment.

 

Hmm, that is the kinf og info I am looking for! what kind of prices etc are they? Is it just a thicker bucket that is then ground down to the correct thickness?

Do you have part numbers at all?

I will be going for high rpm yes as with the lairy cams I'll need a high rev limit to get the most out of them!

 

No, they are buckets that are individually sized, the same as all newage buckets, but smaller dia to suit the V3/4 heads.
These cannot be used with the std V3/4 top retainers etc, part numbers for the buckets, from the lowest to highest, 13228AD011 to 13228AD511

 

So will I need eg33 retainers etc to go along with these?

 

No, you can use all Newage springs & top retainers,Supertech, Crower etc, but will need custom bottom platforms, which I get made to suit whatever spring packege is being used.

 

Those eg33 buckets are a nice solution.
If your still using a 2.7 bar drag map, then maybe some GSC 5043 beehive springs and retainers - $370. They're 9500rpm 2.4 bar, so with reduced revs, 2.7 should be ok. Other than that - Ferrea.
I don't know why you want big cams. 270deg 9.3mm DH22's should get you 600/600 with a billet gt35.

 

I don't know if wrc style heads would be the best way for you? My understanding is the the wrc head intentionally reduced inlet flow and increased exhaust flow to get a better balance.
I don't believe over-sized valves are a great advantage, and could be detrimental. The supertech stainless/inconel valves that can be utilised in v3/4 heads are .5/1mm over.

HTH

 

Looking at the other 2.1 turbo thread, it seems they are v3 wrx heads not sti...

 

So....it's not 2.7bar and it hasn't got v3/4 STI valve train?

 

Nope