Negative Camber
#1
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Negative Camber
Ive finally got my wheels on my car - XXR 527's 18x8.5 with 225/40/18
But they are rubbing on the rears
Im just about to purchase rear camber bolts, does anyone know a decent place around the NorthWest that can set these up, laser alignment or something?
Thanks, Ryan
But they are rubbing on the rears
Im just about to purchase rear camber bolts, does anyone know a decent place around the NorthWest that can set these up, laser alignment or something?
Thanks, Ryan
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Yeah, seems very strange, they are 8.5 but stick out so much. The car is lowered, its on BC Coilovers not to sure on how much the drop is, but they don't look that low, top of tyre to arch is probably 20-30mm?
#6
Buy eibach camber bolts. Fit them the right way a d you'll get over 3 degrees negotiable camber. That should so the trick. Did with my rota which are 8.5 et35 with 235 tyre. Also sure yours ain't 8.75"
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Yeah, ive just bough some of them, hopefully they will do the trick! Yeah your right they are 8.75 buddy in XXR I was thinking Rota
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I can install mine myself, but was wanting the degree's to be the same on both o/s and n/s
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You'll need a camber gauge, digital are the best but they are well expensive. I've got an analogue one, from eBay I think wasn't too much. Camber bolts are fiddly to get right but like earlier said you get -3 with no issues.
I used to run 18/9.5 et35 my bugeye with no reall issues, and it was dropped about 100mm at one point. Better off rolling your arches with that offset to be honest, roll and slight pull will look better. That much camber will look odd unless your car is slammed.
I used to run 18/9.5 et35 my bugeye with no reall issues, and it was dropped about 100mm at one point. Better off rolling your arches with that offset to be honest, roll and slight pull will look better. That much camber will look odd unless your car is slammed.
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You'll need a camber gauge, digital are the best but they are well expensive. I've got an analogue one, from eBay I think wasn't too much. Camber bolts are fiddly to get right but like earlier said you get -3 with no issues.
I used to run 18/9.5 et35 my bugeye with no reall issues, and it was dropped about 100mm at one point. Better off rolling your arches with that offset to be honest, roll and slight pull will look better. That much camber will look odd unless your car is slammed.
I used to run 18/9.5 et35 my bugeye with no reall issues, and it was dropped about 100mm at one point. Better off rolling your arches with that offset to be honest, roll and slight pull will look better. That much camber will look odd unless your car is slammed.
Yeah, I'm hoping so. I don't really want to raise it any, I think the height is spot on.. Any higher and I would be happy. I'm jus tryin to find ways around stopping it rubbin my tyres. All depends how much camber I have to have in order to clear the arch on bumps etc
#15
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As above guys suggest camber bolts and slightly raise rear ride height can help
We have previously same issue with rubbing at rear and we raised slightly rear ride height plus wheel alignment(Front -2.00,Rear -1.50) and now no rubbing issue,we are running now 255/40 R17 with 9JX17 ET20 without the issue,no rubbing and previously we run Rota Grid Drift 9.5JX18 ET38
Jura
We have previously same issue with rubbing at rear and we raised slightly rear ride height plus wheel alignment(Front -2.00,Rear -1.50) and now no rubbing issue,we are running now 255/40 R17 with 9JX17 ET20 without the issue,no rubbing and previously we run Rota Grid Drift 9.5JX18 ET38
Jura
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Looks as low as mine did when it was rubbing.
A 20mm raise tad more camber, now on -1.5deg rear. It still rubbed, so I ground away the small lip on the inner arch, right back to where the arch extension curves round. This have sorted any rubbing now.
This was on 9.5" though.
I believe Dibbleyuk on here has same wheels and wide track, he said no arch mods needed, just camber and sensible ride height.
A 20mm raise tad more camber, now on -1.5deg rear. It still rubbed, so I ground away the small lip on the inner arch, right back to where the arch extension curves round. This have sorted any rubbing now.
This was on 9.5" though.
I believe Dibbleyuk on here has same wheels and wide track, he said no arch mods needed, just camber and sensible ride height.
#21
Looks awesome mate.. They are my wheels of choice, I'm interested to see how you get on with these ... I'm in the north west and a local place called Buckley tyres have always set my geo up on my old old race car through to my road cars... There very reasonable in price £50 - £60 for a full geo set up.. Castor,camber and toe.. They use the latest hawk eye machine which are the best.. They will also set it up to how you want it... Demon tweaks also have the same machine but the price there is £80 iirc
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No bud, ive been told because its a widetrack, you cant roll the arches. They need to be cut away and tbh, dont fancy butchering them
Im not too sure what its running at the min, maybe -1Deg? Im gunna look at taking it somewhere for a Geo setup I think.
Thanks buddy
Thanks buddy
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Looks awesome mate.. They are my wheels of choice, I'm interested to see how you get on with these ... I'm in the north west and a local place called Buckley tyres have always set my geo up on my old old race car through to my road cars... There very reasonable in price £50 - £60 for a full geo set up.. Castor,camber and toe.. They use the latest hawk eye machine which are the best.. They will also set it up to how you want it... Demon tweaks also have the same machine but the price there is £80 iirc
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I've seen a lot of posts on Snet recently with people saying nothing can be done with rear arches on a widetrack or hawkeye. Sorry guys but its just not true.
There are many many stis in the us running far more aggressive wheel specs than anything talked about on here, just check out the stance thread on NASIOC or wrongfitmentcrew.com
Yes obviously a bit more work is needed to pull off extreme low offsets such as cutting, pulling and glueing the arch extensions on. But for a 18/8.75 et35 you'll easily be able to pull the rear arch slightly with a roller or even just a carful tug with your hands. You really shouldn't have an issue with a bit more camber and a slight pull with those specs.
With stance/fitment its offset that matter more than wheel width, thats what brings the lip of the wheel close to the arch.
By the end of this year my hawkeye sti will be sat on a set of 18/10 et20ish and I know it will fit.
Just my two pennies trust me
There are many many stis in the us running far more aggressive wheel specs than anything talked about on here, just check out the stance thread on NASIOC or wrongfitmentcrew.com
Yes obviously a bit more work is needed to pull off extreme low offsets such as cutting, pulling and glueing the arch extensions on. But for a 18/8.75 et35 you'll easily be able to pull the rear arch slightly with a roller or even just a carful tug with your hands. You really shouldn't have an issue with a bit more camber and a slight pull with those specs.
With stance/fitment its offset that matter more than wheel width, thats what brings the lip of the wheel close to the arch.
By the end of this year my hawkeye sti will be sat on a set of 18/10 et20ish and I know it will fit.
Just my two pennies trust me
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