advice on classic
07 December 2012, 04:27 PM
#1
advice on classic
Hi,
so i am looking for a nice unmodified, well looked after facelift classic.
I was just hoping i could get some idea on when things tend to go on well looked after cars so i can check if they have been done and pay more attention to them. I have seen some 1 owner cars with 150,000 on them but dont know if thats ok?
So heres my list but feel free to add other things you have had go:
exhaust: how many years / miles before needs replacing?
Clutch: how many miles before needs replacing?
Turbo: same as above
cambelt: is it every 60,000?
so they are the basics but if anyone has others that are a common thing please point me in the right direction. i.e gearbox, diff etc
do they suffer from electrical faults on locks, windows etc?
Thanks
Michael
so i am looking for a nice unmodified, well looked after facelift classic.
I was just hoping i could get some idea on when things tend to go on well looked after cars so i can check if they have been done and pay more attention to them. I have seen some 1 owner cars with 150,000 on them but dont know if thats ok?
So heres my list but feel free to add other things you have had go:
exhaust: how many years / miles before needs replacing?
Clutch: how many miles before needs replacing?
Turbo: same as above
cambelt: is it every 60,000?
so they are the basics but if anyone has others that are a common thing please point me in the right direction. i.e gearbox, diff etc
do they suffer from electrical faults on locks, windows etc?
Thanks
Michael
07 December 2012, 05:05 PM
#3
oh ok.
i didnt realise i was being so stupid. i would of thought most standard exhausts, clutches etc would have a similar life span if looked after. there surely cant be that much variation in them.
thanks for your helpful reply anyway
i didnt realise i was being so stupid. i would of thought most standard exhausts, clutches etc would have a similar life span if looked after. there surely cant be that much variation in them.
thanks for your helpful reply anyway
07 December 2012, 05:24 PM
#4
LOL, now now, both of you
The problem is, there are few un-modded cars out there, and the MAJORITY of people on here are here BECAUSE we mod the cars, and share our thoughts, questions and answers.
I swapped my exhaust for a stainless one at just over three years old, the old one wasn't holed then.
My turbo got swapped when I knackered the engine, which was part my fault and part due to taking the car to a non-specialist for repairs.
The car has the same alternator, but it HAS had new bearings at about 90,000 miles.
The locks etc are the same but the car has still done under 100, 000 miles, so they should be OK, although it HAS worn out one KEY, LOL.
Keep asking, someone might come along and answer you better, and try not to be so touchy, or you WILL get stick on here, plus NO answers;(
The problem is, there are few un-modded cars out there, and the MAJORITY of people on here are here BECAUSE we mod the cars, and share our thoughts, questions and answers.
I swapped my exhaust for a stainless one at just over three years old, the old one wasn't holed then.
My turbo got swapped when I knackered the engine, which was part my fault and part due to taking the car to a non-specialist for repairs.
The car has the same alternator, but it HAS had new bearings at about 90,000 miles.
The locks etc are the same but the car has still done under 100, 000 miles, so they should be OK, although it HAS worn out one KEY, LOL.
Keep asking, someone might come along and answer you better, and try not to be so touchy, or you WILL get stick on here, plus NO answers;(
07 December 2012, 05:33 PM
#6
yeah cheers guys, sorry if i seemed touchy but just thought that response was un called for even though i know my questions were vague. The reason i asked was because i have seen a un modded 1 owner car on 150,000. it seems to have been looked after and has fsh. I just wanted a ball park figure of the above so i dont own it 5 minutes and need a new exhaust, clutch etc.
Thanks again
Thanks again
07 December 2012, 06:20 PM
#7
Lol, so i should have put a smily 
Here goes, clutch, full throttle launches, may be 5k driven normally, 100k+.
Exhaust, parked on grass 2yrs, stainless parked in garage 20yrs.
Electrics, kids playing with windows 3yrs, hardly used 15yrs, but to be fair electrics not usually a big problem.
Alternator will not charge battery unless under load, starters, and power steering pumps fail occasionally as do steering racks.
Gear box and diffs again see clutch.
Wheel bearings are likely to be an issue at 150k and are a pain to do,apparently.
leakey rear lights and boot seal result in water in boot, common problem.
Head gasket failures also common, apparently.
Big end failures very common, for a multitude of reasons.
maf sensors crap on 99 as above.
Rusty rear arches, very common.
The list goes on and on, buy the lowest milage cleanest one you can find and it may have all of the above inside a month, or it may go on to 200k.
Who knows, hence my original post, which was a bit of a joke by the way.
Oh and change your bloody name, may be mr touchy would be a good one.
edit for new name, Touchyboy
Here goes, clutch, full throttle launches, may be 5k driven normally, 100k+.
Exhaust, parked on grass 2yrs, stainless parked in garage 20yrs.
Electrics, kids playing with windows 3yrs, hardly used 15yrs, but to be fair electrics not usually a big problem.
Alternator will not charge battery unless under load, starters, and power steering pumps fail occasionally as do steering racks.
Gear box and diffs again see clutch.
Wheel bearings are likely to be an issue at 150k and are a pain to do,apparently.
leakey rear lights and boot seal result in water in boot, common problem.
Head gasket failures also common, apparently.
Big end failures very common, for a multitude of reasons.
maf sensors crap on 99 as above.
Rusty rear arches, very common.
The list goes on and on, buy the lowest milage cleanest one you can find and it may have all of the above inside a month, or it may go on to 200k.
Who knows, hence my original post, which was a bit of a joke by the way.
Oh and change your bloody name, may be mr touchy would be a good one.
edit for new name, Touchyboy
Last edited by ditchmyster; 07 December 2012 at 06:23 PM.
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07 December 2012, 06:29 PM
#8
sorry i didnt see the funny side ditchmyster. what is your surname anyway with a name like that. mine is ditchfield, be strange if yours is too! Anyway thanks for the informative response above, very helpful. Its hard because at the moment even the smallest mods like exhaust and wheels which is what i would want to do is making £150 a year difference on insurance so thats why i said an unmodified one but i much prefer bigger wheels and exhaust at least but my insurance isnt up until april and they wont let me have mods until next year due to the wife which is a big problem!! there are 3 i have seen i quite like the look of, 1 un modded, 1 owner fsh but 150,000, 1 with wheels, big spoiler, exhaust - 88,000 fsh, 1 with 52,000 wheels, exhaust all for around the same price. My favourite is the 88,000 for colour and looks but mods, aargghhhh!!
anyone know any cheap specialist insurance who can mirror my ncb until my other insurance is finished?!
anyone know any cheap specialist insurance who can mirror my ncb until my other insurance is finished?!
07 December 2012, 06:38 PM
#11
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Hello mate
I bought my third facelift Turbo 2000 two months ago. I'm sure others will add to this but the main thing you need to look out for is a bullet proof service history and rust on the rear arches as fixing it ain't cheap.
That said when buying my current car I took a bit of a punt on it (it was cheap as it had been sitting for 3 years and so needed a major service including cambelt). Surrey Subaru Specialists completed this including the cambelt idler and tensioner kit, a new radiator and a couple of other bits n bobs for £900. A cambelt change on its own is circa £650. Cambelt changes are every 45,000 miles.
Mine is on its original clutch at 80,000 miles. I'm budgeting to change this next year at £500 for an Exedy kit supplied and fitted. It does also have a temperamental problem with the central locking working but I don't think this is a common problem (I know it sounds like a dog but I promise it isn't!)
Never had any problems with Turbos on the ones I've had, and you'll prob wanna upgrade the exhaust to a stainless steel anyway
My last one had the prodrive bilstein/eibach suspension kit which needed replacing after 90k miles as the dampers were knackered - sold the car before needing to do it but this would've been expensive.
High mileage shouldn't be a problem as long as its looked after.
Good luck with the search!
I bought my third facelift Turbo 2000 two months ago. I'm sure others will add to this but the main thing you need to look out for is a bullet proof service history and rust on the rear arches as fixing it ain't cheap.
That said when buying my current car I took a bit of a punt on it (it was cheap as it had been sitting for 3 years and so needed a major service including cambelt). Surrey Subaru Specialists completed this including the cambelt idler and tensioner kit, a new radiator and a couple of other bits n bobs for £900. A cambelt change on its own is circa £650. Cambelt changes are every 45,000 miles.
Mine is on its original clutch at 80,000 miles. I'm budgeting to change this next year at £500 for an Exedy kit supplied and fitted. It does also have a temperamental problem with the central locking working but I don't think this is a common problem (I know it sounds like a dog but I promise it isn't!)
Never had any problems with Turbos on the ones I've had, and you'll prob wanna upgrade the exhaust to a stainless steel anyway
My last one had the prodrive bilstein/eibach suspension kit which needed replacing after 90k miles as the dampers were knackered - sold the car before needing to do it but this would've been expensive.
High mileage shouldn't be a problem as long as its looked after.
Good luck with the search!
07 December 2012, 06:46 PM
#12
well budget isnt fixed exactly but want as near to 2k as possible. out of the 3 i have mentioned above all have fsh and are between 2-2500 so i know they are out there somewhere. leecal have you got a link to your mates?
07 December 2012, 07:18 PM
#13
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I wanted an unmodded turbo 2000, preferably in dark blue. Found it at a little garage 2miles away! I paid £2600 3years ago on 104k miles and full mot.
I'm not sure what exhaust is on it but it's standard otherwise.
They are out there!
Only problem I have is water getting in the boot and the passenger electric window can be intermittent.
Other than brakes and tyres I've had to replace lambda sensor, and the fuel filler neck corroded so had to get a new one. Rear arches are fine though!
But that's all I've had to do, including the mot's.
I'm not sure what exhaust is on it but it's standard otherwise.
They are out there!
Only problem I have is water getting in the boot and the passenger electric window can be intermittent.
Other than brakes and tyres I've had to replace lambda sensor, and the fuel filler neck corroded so had to get a new one. Rear arches are fine though!
But that's all I've had to do, including the mot's.
07 December 2012, 07:21 PM
#14
Keith michaels insurance, Moleywrx on here send him a pm, A plan are supposed to be good too.
Are we talking full decat and re map or "just a replacement exhaust"
I don't see why the wheels would make such a big difference.
You may find it cheaper to put the car in your wifes name with you as a named driver, if your married that is.
Personally i'd stay away from one with 150k, loads of parts getting towards the end of their life unless they have all been changed.
Are we talking full decat and re map or "just a replacement exhaust"
I don't see why the wheels would make such a big difference.
You may find it cheaper to put the car in your wifes name with you as a named driver, if your married that is.
Personally i'd stay away from one with 150k, loads of parts getting towards the end of their life unless they have all been changed.
07 December 2012, 07:25 PM
#15
I wanted an unmodded turbo 2000, preferably in dark blue. Found it at a little garage 2miles away! I paid £2600 3years ago on 104k miles and full mot.
I'm not sure what exhaust is on it but it's standard otherwise.
They are out there!
Only problem I have is water getting in the boot and the passenger electric window can be intermittent.
Other than brakes and tyres I've had to replace lambda sensor, and the fuel filler neck corroded so had to get a new one. Rear arches are fine though!
But that's all I've had to do, including the mot's.
I'm not sure what exhaust is on it but it's standard otherwise.
They are out there!
Only problem I have is water getting in the boot and the passenger electric window can be intermittent.
Other than brakes and tyres I've had to replace lambda sensor, and the fuel filler neck corroded so had to get a new one. Rear arches are fine though!
But that's all I've had to do, including the mot's.
Also use a sponge to get all the water out of the little side compartments where the jack goes, mine had loads in there.
07 December 2012, 07:30 PM
#17
the un modded one i have found is dark blue. Well i would like to say replacement exhaust to make it last longer being stainless but surely they will know that if they see it. i am not bothered about remap at the moment. just want a nicer sounding exhaust and nicer wheels, ditchmyster i cant believe it either even if they are p1 upgrades not aftermarket some places wont insure us and some want like £150 more, what a joke! Will a big p1 spoiler need declaring as well or can these be classed as standard?
07 December 2012, 08:29 PM
#18
On a whim I seen and bought a 1 owner year 2000 (w) in 2008, 115k miles, standard for £1500
just needed a maf and nothing else
did 10k miles and sold it about 7 months later (for a bit more!)
there are good cheap ones out there, I seen a few decent (according to the ads) classics just before I bought my current one
I reckon you could get a 80k miler for around 2k
Don't put a stupid spoiler on it!
or stickers
just needed a maf and nothing else
did 10k miles and sold it about 7 months later (for a bit more!)
there are good cheap ones out there, I seen a few decent (according to the ads) classics just before I bought my current one
I reckon you could get a 80k miler for around 2k
Don't put a stupid spoiler on it!
or stickers
07 December 2012, 08:59 PM
#20
the un modded one i have found is dark blue. Well i would like to say replacement exhaust to make it last longer being stainless but surely they will know that if they see it. i am not bothered about remap at the moment. just want a nicer sounding exhaust and nicer wheels, ditchmyster i cant believe it either even if they are p1 upgrades not aftermarket some places wont insure us and some want like £150 more, what a joke! Will a big p1 spoiler need declaring as well or can these be classed as standard?
Some, like spoiler, they wouldn't be bothered, but, if it got nicked, or damaged, they'd only pay for a standard one.
Upgrades that result in more power, you MUST declare to stay insured.
Send Moley an e-mail, make sure it's Gary Moulson you speak to, he WILL see you right, trust me
07 December 2012, 09:16 PM
#21
As tradion on here we always wind up the newbys to see if they bite a few times as we get our fair share of lower classes ,unwashed and uneducated on here
some of them even ask in the first 30 posts for dumpvalves
Ok
I have had my classic for 12 years 6 months since new and probably one of the longest one owner cars in the uk
It has 59 k on the clock and sits in the garage and is driven weekly and last year I did 1200 woth it as its a third car now but I will keep it forever
Alloy wheels I put some speed line st2 on and they now need refurbishing
(wife and kerbs done mix) cost will be £260-£300
Tyres for 17" wheels work out at £100 for toysa and pirelli £140 aprox
18"" tyres tend to be 140-£160 per corner
You don't put budget tyres on a scooby
Rattles are common inside if you find on a bit of foam forced in sorts it
Look out for scratched door glass where grit used to catch on the rubbers
If you have rust near the windscreen that's bad and expensive to treat so check that area
Rust mine is polished and cared for but even my garaged example has now got the rust on the rear arches drivers side slightly worse
I have budgeted for £1000 for it done professionally next year
Door dents are popular from bad parking £50 a door / dent on average
Stone Chips will be coming on front end
Check for swirls and scuffs as its softly thin paint ( to make it lighter and faster)
Machine polish would be £250 or DIY which you should do on older cars
Exhaust I have had a decat on mine and prodrive stainless steel exhaust for 12 years still sounds great
In 12 years what's went wrong
Alarm bracket ( replaced under warrenty mechanic probably lent in it and bent it )
Battery was replaced after five years under warrenty
Battery was replaced after 10 years cost £60
Seized piston on front calipers replaced seals £110
Burst brake pipe after mot man got excited cost £110 replaced and bled
Map sensor replaced after 6years £80
Alarm can be tempi mental near masts was a fault with 99/00 modles neeeded a shield fitted
And that is my 12 years 59k history
And No I don't drive like a grannie neither
Normal services and Cam belt changes
Take it to a specialist or sensible priced dealer like Stan palmers or As performance up north
Great cars
Mpg 250 per tank 25 mpg
Insurance Gary is your man for that
And don't out a dump valve on it
NBO 11
30 June 2013
Lightwater valley
See the classics in the arena
some of them even ask in the first 30 posts for dumpvalves
Ok
I have had my classic for 12 years 6 months since new and probably one of the longest one owner cars in the uk
It has 59 k on the clock and sits in the garage and is driven weekly and last year I did 1200 woth it as its a third car now but I will keep it forever
Alloy wheels I put some speed line st2 on and they now need refurbishing
(wife and kerbs done mix) cost will be £260-£300
Tyres for 17" wheels work out at £100 for toysa and pirelli £140 aprox
18"" tyres tend to be 140-£160 per corner
You don't put budget tyres on a scooby
Rattles are common inside if you find on a bit of foam forced in sorts it
Look out for scratched door glass where grit used to catch on the rubbers
If you have rust near the windscreen that's bad and expensive to treat so check that area
Rust mine is polished and cared for but even my garaged example has now got the rust on the rear arches drivers side slightly worse
I have budgeted for £1000 for it done professionally next year
Door dents are popular from bad parking £50 a door / dent on average
Stone Chips will be coming on front end
Check for swirls and scuffs as its softly thin paint ( to make it lighter and faster
) Machine polish would be £250 or DIY which you should do on older cars
Exhaust I have had a decat on mine and prodrive stainless steel exhaust for 12 years still sounds great
In 12 years what's went wrong
Alarm bracket ( replaced under warrenty mechanic probably lent in it and bent it )
Battery was replaced after five years under warrenty
Battery was replaced after 10 years cost £60
Seized piston on front calipers replaced seals £110
Burst brake pipe after mot man got excited cost £110 replaced and bled
Map sensor replaced after 6years £80
Alarm can be tempi mental near masts was a fault with 99/00 modles neeeded a shield fitted
And that is my 12 years 59k history
And No I don't drive like a grannie neither
Normal services and Cam belt changes
Take it to a specialist or sensible priced dealer like Stan palmers or As performance up north
Great cars
Mpg 250 per tank 25 mpg
Insurance Gary is your man for that
And don't out a dump valve on it
NBO 11
30 June 2013
Lightwater valley
See the classics in the arena
07 December 2012, 10:43 PM
#23
Scooby Regular
Just serviced and MOT my 1999 Classic, and guess what? There's nothing wrong with it apart from a little rust on the rear arches. All the mechanicals are working just as they should be, and according to the mechanics it drives really well too.
Not bad for a car on 87k miles and coming up for 14 years old.
Oh and it sounds ****ing awesome - I didn't realise just how good it sounded until they moved it for me, god I love that exhaust.
Not bad for a car on 87k miles and coming up for 14 years old.
Oh and it sounds ****ing awesome - I didn't realise just how good it sounded until they moved it for me, god I love that exhaust.
08 December 2012, 11:10 AM
#25
ok guys well thanks for all the input, i feel like i could get a decent one for 2k espeically after hearing some of your stories above. Like i said before im looking for a fsh one that has preferably had a small amount of owners and looks well cared for so i am sure i will see plenty of dogs but i will walk away. i dont want over the top mods but would like 17" p1 alloys or something similar and stainless exhaust for the extra burble, love the sound but even those mods on my current insurance policy of multi car is a no no, so looks like a standard one with me buying an exhaust and wheels next year or extra insurance at the moment.
Had a provisional quote online from adrian flux and it was horrendous!! i have messeged moleywrx so we will see what he has to say.
Had a provisional quote online from adrian flux and it was horrendous!! i have messeged moleywrx so we will see what he has to say.
11 December 2012, 05:27 PM
#27
thanks for the advice, been trying to weigh up whether to go all out and get a newer impreza or stick with trying to find a classic, did get my head slightly turned by a leon cupra r though as i have seen a few for good prices.
I know if it has been looked after it could go for ever but 100k+ still scares me a bit!
did any of the classics ever have ppp from the factory?
I know if it has been looked after it could go for ever but 100k+ still scares me a bit!
did any of the classics ever have ppp from the factory?
11 December 2012, 08:30 PM
#29
so what would that do to insurance? still have to declare it wouldnt i?
or is it more like the blob eye with ppp where it isnt as much of a jump as its listed as an original / out of factory model.
or is it more like the blob eye with ppp where it isnt as much of a jump as its listed as an original / out of factory model.
11 December 2012, 11:32 PM
#30
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This: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_tr...at=0&_from=R40 is what to use.
But as you mentioned, the side compartments are full of water and so is the wheel well.
Surely spoiler holes wouldn't let that much water in, and Ive sealed all round the boot seal, twice. (I'm afraid I used silicone because I didn't know I shouldn't when i did it the first time and couldn't find anything else).
It's doing my head in!!P
It's even got under the back seats (so I was informed).
Sorry to hijack thread!!