New clutch wont disengage
#1
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New clutch wont disengage
I really need some help asap
my mechanic has put a new clutch plate and cover on my type R today but its not behaving and we dont know why.
We've used the existing lightened flywheel and bearing, new cover and friction plate.
When the car is off you can pump the pedal and it feels fine. If you start the car with the clutch in, the car stays still and you can move around the gears with the gearstick.
If you then release the clutch, and press the pedal down again, theres no feel to the clutch and you cant engage any gears. We have managed to get it in gear sometimes, and driven it up and down the road but it doesnt feel right and has a mind of its own as to wether it will let you select gears.
The clutch has been bled and everything was checked before it went on so can anyone think of something we've missed. It was working ok before we started but the engine has been out so we thought it was a good time to change it.
Any ideas would be great
my mechanic has put a new clutch plate and cover on my type R today but its not behaving and we dont know why.
We've used the existing lightened flywheel and bearing, new cover and friction plate.
When the car is off you can pump the pedal and it feels fine. If you start the car with the clutch in, the car stays still and you can move around the gears with the gearstick.
If you then release the clutch, and press the pedal down again, theres no feel to the clutch and you cant engage any gears. We have managed to get it in gear sometimes, and driven it up and down the road but it doesnt feel right and has a mind of its own as to wether it will let you select gears.
The clutch has been bled and everything was checked before it went on so can anyone think of something we've missed. It was working ok before we started but the engine has been out so we thought it was a good time to change it.
Any ideas would be great
#2
was the clutch bled after you changed the clutch or before?
As if done after, Was the cylinders front bolt removed so u can point the cyclinder upwards to bleed? If not done there defo will still be air in the cylinder.
As if done after, Was the cylinders front bolt removed so u can point the cyclinder upwards to bleed? If not done there defo will still be air in the cylinder.
#3
+1 sounds like there is some air left in the sistem
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My mechanic says theres no air in there.
One thing I forgot to mention is that the engine has been out of the car for some time, and the bearing has been on the shelf for months. Could it be that the bearing is sticking as when you put the clutch down with the engine running theres a kind of chattering noise?
One thing I forgot to mention is that the engine has been out of the car for some time, and the bearing has been on the shelf for months. Could it be that the bearing is sticking as when you put the clutch down with the engine running theres a kind of chattering noise?
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i reckon it could be the bearing, the clutches are a pull type clutch which means they press into the pressure plates the first time you press the clutch, normally once they're pressed in you cant get them back out, was the bearing you've used now one that has already been used in the past?
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First unbolt the slave & tilt so the bleed nipple is at the top. You won't successfully bleed it unless you do this. Sometimes they trap an air pocket in there and the fluid will appear clear of bubbles, you could try all day and not get it out unless you tilt it.
Also, remove the rubber fork cover and have a look at the release bearing. Get someone to actuate the clutch and make sure the bearing retaining system works correctly. It should move in and out with the cover clip ring slightly. Sometimes if they've not engaged correctly when you fit them they can stick. You can actually seperate the bearing in situe with a long enough pry bar.
My money is on air in there though! They are known for this. As I say, unbolt and angle it so nipple is highest point, give it a tap as you bleed it. Personally I'd use a vacuum bleeder with this method.
Also, remove the rubber fork cover and have a look at the release bearing. Get someone to actuate the clutch and make sure the bearing retaining system works correctly. It should move in and out with the cover clip ring slightly. Sometimes if they've not engaged correctly when you fit them they can stick. You can actually seperate the bearing in situe with a long enough pry bar.
My money is on air in there though! They are known for this. As I say, unbolt and angle it so nipple is highest point, give it a tap as you bleed it. Personally I'd use a vacuum bleeder with this method.
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