Djgyro

Hi guys, just wondered what the thoughts are on T-cut colour restorer. I have a MY99 import which has had a 95% respray with 2K paint. I've got a few tar deposits down the sides and some discolouration on the rear bumper from the exhaust.

Does T-cut remove the lacquer and what will the effect be on the original Jap paintwork? Can it be used to remove staining on alloys?

Is there a better product on the market to do the job?

Cheers

Baz82

T cut is just a filler polish really , there are better products for properly taing a fine layer of clear coat off and bringing the shine back

Djgyro

That's fair enough, end of the day the paintwork is in really good condition for a MY99, only the roof and fog covers are original paintwork, the rest was done about 2 years ago by the previous owner. I'm just picky and want it blemish free and gleaming

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

T-cut is a combination of mild cutting compound with filler compound, along with cleaning solvents to disperse (remove) bonded contaminents.

So yeah it'll work, but its hard work. If the paintwork is of good quality and thickness it won't do any harm, although you should take extreme care on the areas where old and new paint/laquer has been blended as this is the areas where the laquer will be very thin. Also if its not used with care, with the appropriate polishing cloths etc. it can cuase marring (swirls).

This applies to any cutting compound or polish containing a cutting agent (basically any consumer branded "paint restorer" ).

A solvent based glue and tar remover is more effective at removing bonded contaminents like tar. Automsmart Tardis is very effective at this (although whether you want to buy a gallon of it is your choice...it'll last you ages though). Liberally soak the tar with it (with a brush or soaked rag), wait a few seconds for it to soften, then wipe off.

Alternatives; petrol (with its obvious risks). Cellulose thinners (not good on cars painted/touched up with cellulose paint...it WILL remove the paint! ).

Mild/minor tar can be removed with consumer brand tar removers, and cleaner polishes, or a clay-bar. But generally I find they aren't potent enough and the trade stuff is better.

Djgyro

Cheers ALi_B, think I'll do a bit more homework on how to use these products and in the mean time a bit of V-Power should deal with the tar The paintwork was immaculate before I moved to Scotland poor roads and traffic jams have put paid to that

chopperman

Clay bar should remove the contaminates off the paint, use plenty of lube like detail spray.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Just be careful. It'll dry out your skin, and melt rubber gloves, and your tarmac drive.

Did I say it was flammable? (fumes especially)

Djgyro

I've heard a lot of good stuff about clay bars but never used myself, usually because the car shines and doesn't appear to need more than a good quality shampoo and wax but having just visited the little shop of Ebay, a clay bar, lubricant and polishing cloths will be winging their way to me soon. I'll give it a go and see what happens! Thanks for all the posts!

Djgyro

Ahh you worry too much! Besides I won't be wearing rubber gloves and it's not my drive ha!

IainMilford

iTrader: (15)

how bad are the tar deposits? have you tried just using a 'normal' polish (such as megs etc) first?

Djgyro

Tried Turtlewax Bug & Tar remover but it wasn't all that effective

chopperman

Use oil to remove oil. WD40 or even vegetable oil will remove tar.

Djgyro

Is that right? It's got a lot of uses but WD40? Slightly off topic but my uncle had a creaky elbow and he swore blind rubbing WD40 onto it helped :S

chopperman

Yup, oil removes oil. I once worked spraying roads with bitumen for road dressing. We always used other oils to remove the tar/bitumen. Diesel was a favourite because we had lots of it but veg oil works just as well as does spray oils like wd40 . Not good to rub it on your shin though as it can be carcinogenic i believe.

Bristol98

Lighter fluid on a rag for the tar spots followed by a quick wash! Easy peasy...

Djgyro

Jeeeesus, what lit? Are we melting the tar off now So now I've got a list including but not limited to solvent based tar remover, cellulose thinners, petrol, diesel, WD40, lighter fluid... I've got visions of me in the garage sat besides my car high as a kite after breathing in all those petrochemicals.....fun times ahead

greg320

iTrader: (15)

autosmart tardis is good stuff

Djgyro

For tar or inhaling?

ADV.

As with all strong solvents, be careful.

If you have fresh paint (smart repair, recent wheel refurb) you dont want to be using Tardis on them.

So test in a small place first before giving it a spray over.

T-Cut is a product I avoid, it is quite aggressive (think 3m Fast Cut) with just a bit more fillers, so its not one for me.

With your car having a respray, is the clear coat harder than standard? If so you might need to use a DA/Rotary to achieve the finish your after.

Comes down to what you want to achieve as to which products you use.

Djgyro

Right will definitely be avoiding T-cut then that sounds way too harsh - as I originally suspected.
I was told there is a difference in the lacquer the Japs use so that may be it. The ultimate solution would be P1200 and a lacquer respray of course!
The car isn't in showroom condition, although not too shabby for it's age, and it is my everyday car so cant be too precious about the finish I want but I know it can be better than it is.
The clay kit should turn up either tomorrow or Sat so Sunday will be suck it and see and if still no good will probably try a bit of Tardis and be satisfied with that and a good buffing

CharlySkunkWeed

iTrader: (7)

That stuff is useless , try autoglym tar remover instead.

ADV.

You have a lot of really good detailers where you are, why not pop down to see one and ask there advice and what they would suggest.

All that would cost is time & petrol.

Claying will remover tar (& soot left over from the exhaust) but you may need something like SRP, Carlack, Lime Prime to clean the paint properly.

Its difficult to give proper advice without actually seeing the paint and doing a few simple things to gauge if the paint is "jap soft" or "german hard".

For instance I did an mx5 using Wolfs Ultra Fine Polish (WP-1N) on a medium pad & got rid of all swirls but left the deep RDS. However on an M3 that combo wouldnt touch it.

But still think getting in contact with a local detailer and get them to see the paint and give advice would be a better (quicker) way forward.

Djgyro

Actually ADV not a bad idea, I need my front splitter respraying (encounter with what looked like a flying cog on the A74M on the way up here - it came off better). Was considering Paint Technic in Aberdeen so might see what they suggest

ADV.

I would suggest a different tar remover but since I am the main reseller for it in the UK I wont

Djgyro

If its any good - fill your boots!......?