Clutch change nightmare! Gearbox stuck!
15 June 2012, 11:59 PM
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Clutch change nightmare! Gearbox stuck!
Gearbox nightmare! Spent the last 11 hours trying to change my clutch! took me around an hour to strip everything down ready to "guide" my gearbox out. I got it off the engine around half an inch all the way around and was expecting it to just slide off but it wouldn't!, so i kept prizing it until it was around an inch and a half all the way around and still it wouldn't budge any further! It felt as though it was catching on the inside of the gearbox, possibly the spline or clutch release bearing? I'm not sure but it has been a pain in the ****. Any tips what it could be or if anyone has had any similar issues, then please send me some advice, we have tried everything but theres something stopping it. Cheers Loui
16 June 2012, 12:04 AM
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Is it due to the clutch fork holding it in place still?
It's not hard at all. there's a pin/cylinder thing that the fork pivots on - on the passengers side there is an allen key type bolt which you need to undo to get this pin to slide out. once that's done it will release the release bearing from the fork so you can remove the engine,
Once you've removed the plug, screw an M6 (x25mm or longer) bolt into the end of the clutch fork pivot pin. You then pull on the head of the bolt and the pin will come with it.
It's not hard at all. there's a pin/cylinder thing that the fork pivots on - on the passengers side there is an allen key type bolt which you need to undo to get this pin to slide out. once that's done it will release the release bearing from the fork so you can remove the engine,
Once you've removed the plug, screw an M6 (x25mm or longer) bolt into the end of the clutch fork pivot pin. You then pull on the head of the bolt and the pin will come with it.
16 June 2012, 12:04 AM
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Is it due to the clutch fork holding it in place still?
It's not hard at all. there's a pin/cylinder thing that the fork pivots on - on the passengers side there is an allen key type bolt which you need to undo to get this pin to slide out. once that's done it will release the release bearing from the fork so you can remove the engine,
Once you've removed the plug, screw an M6 (x25mm or longer) bolt into the end of the clutch fork pivot pin. You then pull on the head of the bolt and the pin will come with it.
It's not hard at all. there's a pin/cylinder thing that the fork pivots on - on the passengers side there is an allen key type bolt which you need to undo to get this pin to slide out. once that's done it will release the release bearing from the fork so you can remove the engine,
Once you've removed the plug, screw an M6 (x25mm or longer) bolt into the end of the clutch fork pivot pin. You then pull on the head of the bolt and the pin will come with it.
16 June 2012, 12:07 AM
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Chilton is very weak.
This is '911's' version, but Greasemonkey did a killer version ages ago, about 2 years I think (in the old format Snet days).
Jack car up very high and level, especially if you are taking the box right away from the car.
Drain oil, remove propshaft centre bearing and pull out of box.
Remove d/p to gearbox bolts (2 of them). Drift out the roll pins that hold the gear shift linkage to the box selector shaft
Remove TMIC, starter motor, clutch slave cylinder and all wires off the box to various parts of the engine bay.
Just by the starter motor location you must find a 20mm dia cover screw with a hex socket in it and unscrew/remove it.
Find a 6mm threaded bolt, about 50mm long. Screw it into the end of the clutch arm pivot shaft exposed when you removed the above cover. Pull (hard maybe) on the bolt and the lond shaft will pull through abd the clutch arm will go loose.
Undo all 4 bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine. Nothing will move as the 2 dowls that locate the part together will be corroded so tight you will think it is all welded together. Apply WD40 on the dowls.
You need to pull the front driveshafts out now. Remove the lower ball joints on each side of the front suspension, surprisingly easy! Get to the CV joint on the shaft both sides and drift out the scroll pins (very tight). Pull each hub assembly hard and the shaft will pull out of the box no probs.
That's the EASY bit done
You MUST have a proper or very very good jack to take the weight of the transmission, it is seriously heavy. Remove the gearbox cross member after placing the support under the box, very close to the bell housing; you have to split the bell housing off the engine by brute force, cursing, and any means you can.
Once free (mine first took 2 whole hours) the box will slide back about 80mm to freedom and will try to fall off the jack!
I bought a Draper transmission jack, utterly invaluable.
Removeal is not the reverse of the above.
You need to free the clutch thrust bearing off the clip in the clutch cover. Removed, place the bearing onto the gearbox input shaft sleeve, thread the clutch release arm onto it, and feed in the pivot pin (use coppa slip on re assy) and the cover to finish it off.
When the box is back on and bolted tight, grab the exposed clutch arm where the cylinder goes and push it very hard towards the baulkhead so you feel and hear a click and the lever feels positioned in place. This bit is MOST important to get right or you will have to do this all over again.
REALLY REALLY think hard about doing this job yourself unless you are used to this kind of fight, realy hard graft, especially on your own. I've done it 3 times now and have the scars.
I might have missed some small details, but I think the above will get you there.
ps, the 6 speeder is 30kg more than the 5 speeder and bigger!
This is '911's' version, but Greasemonkey did a killer version ages ago, about 2 years I think (in the old format Snet days).
Jack car up very high and level, especially if you are taking the box right away from the car.
Drain oil, remove propshaft centre bearing and pull out of box.
Remove d/p to gearbox bolts (2 of them). Drift out the roll pins that hold the gear shift linkage to the box selector shaft
Remove TMIC, starter motor, clutch slave cylinder and all wires off the box to various parts of the engine bay.
Just by the starter motor location you must find a 20mm dia cover screw with a hex socket in it and unscrew/remove it.
Find a 6mm threaded bolt, about 50mm long. Screw it into the end of the clutch arm pivot shaft exposed when you removed the above cover. Pull (hard maybe) on the bolt and the lond shaft will pull through abd the clutch arm will go loose.
Undo all 4 bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine. Nothing will move as the 2 dowls that locate the part together will be corroded so tight you will think it is all welded together. Apply WD40 on the dowls.
You need to pull the front driveshafts out now. Remove the lower ball joints on each side of the front suspension, surprisingly easy! Get to the CV joint on the shaft both sides and drift out the scroll pins (very tight). Pull each hub assembly hard and the shaft will pull out of the box no probs.
That's the EASY bit done
You MUST have a proper or very very good jack to take the weight of the transmission, it is seriously heavy. Remove the gearbox cross member after placing the support under the box, very close to the bell housing; you have to split the bell housing off the engine by brute force, cursing, and any means you can.
Once free (mine first took 2 whole hours) the box will slide back about 80mm to freedom and will try to fall off the jack!
I bought a Draper transmission jack, utterly invaluable.
Removeal is not the reverse of the above.
You need to free the clutch thrust bearing off the clip in the clutch cover. Removed, place the bearing onto the gearbox input shaft sleeve, thread the clutch release arm onto it, and feed in the pivot pin (use coppa slip on re assy) and the cover to finish it off.
When the box is back on and bolted tight, grab the exposed clutch arm where the cylinder goes and push it very hard towards the baulkhead so you feel and hear a click and the lever feels positioned in place. This bit is MOST important to get right or you will have to do this all over again.
REALLY REALLY think hard about doing this job yourself unless you are used to this kind of fight, realy hard graft, especially on your own. I've done it 3 times now and have the scars.
I might have missed some small details, but I think the above will get you there.
ps, the 6 speeder is 30kg more than the 5 speeder and bigger!
16 June 2012, 12:23 AM
#5
Gearbox nightmare! Spent the last 11 hours trying to change my clutch! took me around an hour to strip everything down ready to "guide" my gearbox out. I got it off the engine around half an inch all the way around and was expecting it to just slide off but it wouldn't!, so i kept prizing it until it was around an inch and a half all the way around and still it wouldn't budge any further! It felt as though it was catching on the inside of the gearbox, possibly the spline or clutch release bearing? I'm not sure but it has been a pain in the ****. Any tips what it could be or if anyone has had any similar issues, then please send me some advice, we have tried everything but theres something stopping it. Cheers Loui
11 hours !!!! I feel for you buddy, bet your pi$$ed right off. Always pays to do a bit of research first. As Lee has pointed out, the pin needs removing
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16 June 2012, 12:50 AM
#8
My money is also on the pin but I know this the hard way because my mate snapped a bolt in the pin before pulling it out so we had to pull the engine and box in one and separate them on the deck to get the pin out afterwards! 
He didn't realise that you don't need to tighten up the bolt to remove the pin and whilst tightening it he sheared it off! Finger tight is all it needs at most, a few turns of thread will do it.
He didn't realise that you don't need to tighten up the bolt to remove the pin and whilst tightening it he sheared it off! Finger tight is all it needs at most, a few turns of thread will do it.
16 June 2012, 12:58 AM
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Nice one guys! Cheers for all the advice! Its got to be the pin! I have a 50 page step by step pictorial guide and believe it or not, it doesn't mention the pin at all ha ha. Today has been a absolute nightmare and i just hope i haven't damaged anything whilst prizing the gearbox from the engine. Well i will give it a go after work tomorrow and fingers crossed she will be up and running soon 
Thanks again! Loui
Thanks again! Loui
16 June 2012, 01:15 AM
#10
Believe me after the crap we had separating the engine and box after my mate snapped that bolt you shouldn't have been able to do any damage If you have then you're more hand fisted than he is!!! 
The pin is behind a plug that you remove with an allen key and it's on the starter motor side of the gearbox.
If you have then you're more hand fisted than he is!!! The pin is behind a plug that you remove with an allen key and it's on the starter motor side of the gearbox.
16 June 2012, 05:11 AM
#11
Thats why i say it's soooooooooooo much easier to just take the engine out, your taking all the same stuff off the engine and not groveling under the car on your back, then your not p1ssing around once its out, 10 mins to fit the new clutch and you can drop the oil and change the plugs in another 10 min,as well as anything else you fancy doing.
Wouldn't of helped in this case, but at least you wouldn't have been on your back for 11hrs.
11hrs
i bet you were ******* fuming,scraped knuckels,oily face, dirt and god knows what in your eyes and hair, you sure put a smile on my face this morning buddy.
16 June 2012, 07:39 AM
#12
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Could have saved you some time...................
http://www.exedy.com.au/user_uploade...20Note%20O.pdf
http://www.exedy.com.au/user_uploade...20Note%20O.pdf
16 June 2012, 08:33 AM
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Yeah my next step way to take the engine out and wish i did now. It was a nightmare of a day, im working in my mates tin shed and the day just got worse it started of going well and then it started thunder storming with heavy rain and hail stones which was that noisy on the tin i couldnt hear my self think then the rain fall was that heavy the water started forming a river right.through.the garage and.under my car (i will upload a video), then i asked a friend to come up to give me a lift with the box, whilst we were doing that this lad came up to the shed and it turns.out pretty much all the tools in there were his and he wants to.take them all back, so he packed all his tools up and left but kindly left me a breaker bar because he could see.i.was.struggling. Meanwhile the propshaft hole starting pissing oil out and i was laid in a pool of oil and i felt saturated in oil with it all dripping out of my hair. I only got a few cuts though, went through 4 bulbs in the lamp i was using and spent half an hour in the shower trying to clean myself! It was an extremely long day over a pin..............
16 June 2012, 10:46 AM
#18
lol, you had some serious fun, at least you will be wiser for the experience.
P.s get yourself a decent socket set and some ratchet spanners from halfrauds with the cash you saved fitting the clutch and you'll be able to take on anything on a scooby.
P.s get yourself a decent socket set and some ratchet spanners from halfrauds with the cash you saved fitting the clutch and you'll be able to take on anything on a scooby.
17 June 2012, 10:46 PM
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Right...... everything fit. I made sure everything went together properly, release bearing, pin, fork and everything, but it makes a horrible scraping noise whilst biting. It isn't the release bearing either, its more of a scrape than a rough bearing noise. Also i accidentally pulled the speedo out of the clocks, which i will sort tomorrow. I need to top the gearbox up too of oil because i had none to put in it today. But the cars running limp mode i think because the fuel cut comes in at 4500 rpm, i tried diagnosing the fault codes with the connector but turns out the previous owner has taken the Engine management bulb out because it doesn't light up. Any advice on limp mode and the scraping noise would be nice, Thanks loui
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