Saturday i set out on a massive modification spree and it all needed to be done before today for when duncan came out for the map tweak. All was going well until we tried to get the car to hold boost at 6000rpm in third, but it wasnt having any of it. As soon as it got to about 5250rpm, it would just suddenly lose all boost and power would drop right off too.

Duncan has told me what he thinks is the problem so i need to buy something to replace what i have. Im not gonnasay what it is as i would like others to see if they can give some ideas of what the problem could be.

The current spec of the car is:

Sti pink injectors
3 port boost solenoid
Vf35
Harvey up pipe and ported headers
Jdm inlet manifold with tgv deletes
Egt sensor removed
Silicon turbo inlet pipe
Pfr7b plugs
Pipercross panel filter
3 inch full decat

Any ideas then let me know

Thanks

 

faulty solenoid or cheap inlet sucking shut

 

Out of interest Dave would you be willing to see if your VF35 is suffering from boost creep? Its not your issue but I have yet to see a VF35 that can hold wastegate pressure with a full decat, if you have a boost gauge simply join your compressor outlet directly to your actuator go for a drive in 3rd or 4th from 2500rpm with full throttle and see if it holds wastegate pressure at approx 0.5 bar on standard unit. If it holds happy days but if it starts to pick up past that and continues over 1.0bar you have boost creep and your turbo cannot be controlled.

Regarding your issue, what internal diameter piping do you have fitted between your turbo and the solenoid, likewise between the solenoid and the actuator?

Cheers Iain

 

Plugs and injectors.

 

Also with your setup are you getting any pulsing from the intake (compressor surge) whilst on boost especially in 3rd or higher?

And what sort of pressure are you trying to hold above 6000rpm?

Cheers Iain

 

Sorry should have added Sti pink injectors fitted, I'll add it above now

 

Hi mate,

I have no idea what id the piping is but I would hazard a guess at 3mm? This was fine when the normal td04 was fitted. I can test for boost creep and let you know. What are the symptoms of this in normal driving?

 

Would I be able to feel this pulsing whilst driving as whilst on the road with Duncan today it felt smooth then the power would suddenly tail off. And I think he was trying to get it to hold 1.4bar?


Anyone else with any ideas?

 

Up the pipe id between the turbo, solenoid and actuator to id 4mm.

Symptoms under normal driving would be higher than desired boost levels under wot conditions under load.

Cheers Iain

 

Just realised you must have a cheap silicone inlet pipe which is collapsing on boost

 

+1

 

Any chance of a pic of the engine bay?

Cheers Iain

 

+2.

I had this exact same problem few months back with duncan mapping that too. Luckily it was on the rollers at the time so we could easily spot what it was, Although mine wasn't cheap, it was a £200 one

 

What part of the pipe was collapsing? Maf end, under manifold or at the turbo inlet?

Cheers Iain

 

At the Induction end mate.

No maf here

 

Cool so it could be easilly sorted with an alloy pipe insert? I just though if it were collapsing elsewhere it would be a pain to sort.

Cheers Iain

 

In my case I got a full refund and went with a Perrin inlet, and all is fine and dandy now

 

Here's some pics of the engine bay and a couple of the rest

 

Hi Dave

Can be Inlet pipe which collapsing under the boost,i would suggest make the own hard inlet pipe from Intercooler pipework


Jura

 

As you can probably see I have an eclipse performance inlet pipe and Duncan is pretty sure it is that that is sucking shut and has recommended that I just refit the oe inlet as with the power I will be running it won't cause too much obstruction so I will be getting a new one of those instead. The only problem is that I'll have to remove the inlet manifold again which was a nightmare but atleast I know roughly what's involved.

I might also change my hoses in the engine bay to black to match everything else, what do you guys think?

 

Didn't have to remove my manifold to change my intake pipe. Was tricky but wasn't that much of a prob.

 

I didn't remove it when fitting my silicon one but had to cut the plastic one in bits to get it out. So if I'm fitting a plastic one then I think I will need to remove it to make fitting easier

 

Hi mate. I'm sorry to hear your pipe might be collapsing? We have them fitted to cars running 1.4 bar and over 400bhp without any issues at all. Can you first check if the pipe might be a bit too long? Each one is hand made, and we have had 2 in the past that were about 30mm too long. If its too long then when fitted, it causes a kink in the pipe, which becomes a weak spot when it's sucking really hard.

We'll be happy to refund/replace wherever necessary! If you can wait a few weeks (which i appreciate is unlikely) then we are releasing our updated version which comes with extra strengthening (wire wound through the silicone) to cope with bigger power applications.

I'd happily swap the pipe for you if you can wait. And if you want one in black that's not a problem.

 

Buy a perrin or one from the clinic

 

Do I get a prize for guessing what it was first

 

look at post 2

 

Cant say much fairer than that ^^^

 

I am selling a Perrin inlet pipe bought three weeks ago and fitted two weeks ago. It,s immaculate and was bought from scoobyclinic. Still have box and instructions and manifold doesn't need to come off for fit. Only selling be ause I am getting a bigger turbo requiring greater diameter hose. It,s currently at scooby spares with Scott was bought for 270 but will take 170 or offers. Phone Gary on 07581360988

 

spring in the forge actuator needs changing had that before

 

I'll pm you after I finish work

Unfortunately I didn't really want to spend that kind of money as Duncan doesn't think that the oe plastic one will be too restrictive as I'm only hoping for around the 325 - 330 bhp so that's what I'm gonna do. If I were going for bigger power then I think I might have had it.

Is this easy to check and easy to replace?