slip joint header/manifold
17 May 2012, 07:17 PM
#1
slip joint header/manifold
i have just bought some headers/manifold off someone, as mine died but they have a slip together joint in the middle with springs on them, do i nee to seal this up or as if is already together just leave it as it is?
17 May 2012, 08:30 PM
#3
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As above leave as they are. I get a very slight blow out of mine on cold start up which annoys the hell out of me. But once there warn and expanded they seal tight
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18 May 2012, 08:50 PM
#8
Heat wrapping with proper heat wrap is very worthwhile. By having a slip joint it reduces the chance of the headers splitting at the collector and providing the slip joint is properly made it will be self sealing as the exhaust warms up. The exhaust may sound a little bit fluffy from a cold start.
With a slip jointed uppipe that further reduces the possibility of the headers cracking.
With a slip jointed uppipe that further reduces the possibility of the headers cracking.
19 May 2012, 11:13 AM
#14
All my uppipes are slip jointed to relieve stress on the header set. Those with a criss cross woven steel expansion joint are notorious for failing.
I hope this helps in your understanding of the importance in getting the uppipe and headers right.
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...e-porting.html
I hope this helps in your understanding of the importance in getting the uppipe and headers right.
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...e-porting.html
20 May 2012, 11:31 AM
#16
Guide to heat wrapping.
I have used all the heat wraps I have come across over many years but so far I am settled on DEI wrap because the thermal properties are as good as anything else I have found and better than most. It also has good service life when properly applied. It is close weave so there are no holes when streached. It has a stitch down each side to act as a guide to overlap so it is easy to use and because there is less excessive wrapping, more economical in use.
Heat wrapping is not difficult if you follow these instructions but you cannot expect to achieve a professional standard on your first heat wrap operation unless you follow these instructions carefully.
Because of the cost of heat wrap ties I only use stainless steel tie wire and generally the more ties the better the job.
To use tie wire it is best to have a set of tie wire pliers/ lock wire pliers which makes twisting the tie wire that much easier.
As a rule of thumb I run a length of wrap along the component to be wrapped and then measure off X 6. This works quite well on downpipes, tubular header runners, uppipes and so forth. On a straight length I multiply by 5.
Following the stitch overlap is important to get the best economy of wrap material but check regularly to avoid skips/bare patches on sections you cannot see. Avoid over wrapping. There is nothing to gain and it is wasteful. Following the stitching on the inside of tight bends is not possible.
The wrap should be applied damp but not wet. There are chemicals in the wrap to help it bind and these should not be diluted out. You can use a house plant leaf sprayer or any other water aerosol/spray to dampen the wrap or set a sink tap to a very fine trickle and run the wrap through the trickle quite quickly. In a few minutes the water will have spread evenly throughout the weave. Do not let the impregnated chemicals run out. Keep away from foodstuff.
Wrap from the bottom to the top with the appropriate overlay.
Keep the wrap as tight as possible.
If you want to change direction that is easily achieved by turning the wrap over through 180 degrees. This is useful where there is a change of diameter for instance and helps keep the wrap tight.
Remember that the wrap on the outside of a bend requires more material and therefore the corresponding inside of the bend will have big overlaps and on a tight bend this can be almost 100%.
Do not cut the wrap in to short lengths but try to apply in continuous lengths and certainly 15 feet at a time. Wrapping a section with a single length of wrap results in a neater job.
A 3" open neck downpipe wll generally take three quarters of a roll of wrap done properly.
Remember. Keep it tight.
Tubular headers will take a full 50'.
Tie at the end and then every 3 inches but on curves or corners you can increase the number of ties.
The tie must be applied while the wrap is still damp.
Cut off any strands and loose ends.
When put on the car first there will be a lot of moisture released from the wrap. Do not be alarmed.
On damp and humid days the wrap will absorb moisture so again there will be a lot of steam.
It is quite normal for the wrap to smell for three weeks after applying as it dries through thoroughly.
Wrapped properly it can last for years.
Happy wrapping.
I have used all the heat wraps I have come across over many years but so far I am settled on DEI wrap because the thermal properties are as good as anything else I have found and better than most. It also has good service life when properly applied. It is close weave so there are no holes when streached. It has a stitch down each side to act as a guide to overlap so it is easy to use and because there is less excessive wrapping, more economical in use.
Heat wrapping is not difficult if you follow these instructions but you cannot expect to achieve a professional standard on your first heat wrap operation unless you follow these instructions carefully.
Because of the cost of heat wrap ties I only use stainless steel tie wire and generally the more ties the better the job.
To use tie wire it is best to have a set of tie wire pliers/ lock wire pliers which makes twisting the tie wire that much easier.
As a rule of thumb I run a length of wrap along the component to be wrapped and then measure off X 6. This works quite well on downpipes, tubular header runners, uppipes and so forth. On a straight length I multiply by 5.
Following the stitch overlap is important to get the best economy of wrap material but check regularly to avoid skips/bare patches on sections you cannot see. Avoid over wrapping. There is nothing to gain and it is wasteful. Following the stitching on the inside of tight bends is not possible.
The wrap should be applied damp but not wet. There are chemicals in the wrap to help it bind and these should not be diluted out. You can use a house plant leaf sprayer or any other water aerosol/spray to dampen the wrap or set a sink tap to a very fine trickle and run the wrap through the trickle quite quickly. In a few minutes the water will have spread evenly throughout the weave. Do not let the impregnated chemicals run out. Keep away from foodstuff.
Wrap from the bottom to the top with the appropriate overlay.
Keep the wrap as tight as possible.
If you want to change direction that is easily achieved by turning the wrap over through 180 degrees. This is useful where there is a change of diameter for instance and helps keep the wrap tight.
Remember that the wrap on the outside of a bend requires more material and therefore the corresponding inside of the bend will have big overlaps and on a tight bend this can be almost 100%.
Do not cut the wrap in to short lengths but try to apply in continuous lengths and certainly 15 feet at a time. Wrapping a section with a single length of wrap results in a neater job.
A 3" open neck downpipe wll generally take three quarters of a roll of wrap done properly.
Remember. Keep it tight.
Tubular headers will take a full 50'.
Tie at the end and then every 3 inches but on curves or corners you can increase the number of ties.
The tie must be applied while the wrap is still damp.
Cut off any strands and loose ends.
When put on the car first there will be a lot of moisture released from the wrap. Do not be alarmed.
On damp and humid days the wrap will absorb moisture so again there will be a lot of steam.
It is quite normal for the wrap to smell for three weeks after applying as it dries through thoroughly.
Wrapped properly it can last for years.
Happy wrapping.
20 May 2012, 11:34 AM
#17
Do you have the diameter (internal) at the collector where it exits to the uppipe and what are the two internal diameters for the uppipe either end?
With that information I can tell you what would be the best uppipe for your application. You may be very surprised by the improved spool, crispness and torque from one of the "trick" uppipes if it is actually the best choice.
With that information I can tell you what would be the best uppipe for your application. You may be very surprised by the improved spool, crispness and torque from one of the "trick" uppipes if it is actually the best choice.
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