type-rob

Oh dear, it appears we have hit a problem... was only a matter of time I guess.

My oil was changed (top grade stuff 10/60w millers) around 3,000 miles ago.

Today I was faced with a flickering oil light... was luckily at home so turned it off.

Spoke to a very good contact who advised me to top it up with 10/50 /40w (or the best I can find) to see how much has been lost and to come for an oil change (due one anyway)

Much to my shock it took nearly 3 1/2 litres to fill it back up... and thats not quite full either.

Fired it back up and still sounds sweet as a nut with the only quiet tapping being the lifters.

It throws out very little smoke when on boost and none what-so-ever on idle.

I have noticed no leaks and the oil is not creamy etc as per a head problem... I, am stumped?!

I will be getting it recovered to my mechanics (below) who will do the change Thursday sometime...

Any ideas tho? I am obviously very concerned and any ideas would be great...
Help please!

May the nail chewing and pacing of the livingroom begin!

........... thanks in advance...

Rob

p.s. the car has been warmed and cooled religiously for a minimum of 3mins each way....

tubbytommy

iTrader: (20)

thats a lot of oil to use fella and lucky you got away with it as there wouldnt have been much left.

The Zohan

Y could be it wasn't filled properly when it was changed, how long since you checked the level last???

type-rob

Tell me about it! **** a brick when it kept taking it! I am assuming and hoping if I had damaged it from lack of oil it would be obvious?!! *fingerscrossed* !

type-rob

Be about 3 weeks (I know I know! and I have learnt my lesson!!) but I do a fair few miles a week.. was spot on when done?!

RICHARD J

iTrader: (4)

That does sound excessive. Pull the turbo pipes off & see how much oil is in them & check for play in the turbo shaft. A failing turbo would be most likely but it could be piston rings.

type-rob

nice one Richard, I think I will ask the guys to have a look when they are doing the oil change as I am away from the car, or will check tomorrow if I catch the light... was told it could be the rings, or turbo seels?... oh joy

Ginola

iTrader: (25)

Im guessing you give it at least 10 mins warm up before hoofing it? Your oil will take that long to come up to temp...

The amount of oil you have burnt would point towards failing turbo or rings at a guess as others have stated, you can smell a failing turbo (stand at the back your exhaust fumes will stink of burning engine oil)

type-rob

The gauge is always as high as it goes temp wise before it gets the beans! This doesnt always take 10mins tho?... sometime 7-8ish?

I will have to test that turbo smell once it has been 're-oiled' as I dardent start it now untill its got millers back in it!

Not noticed any odd smells, I have read on here Scoobys sometimes use oil but you are right.. the oil consumption is signaling a problem

Turbotits

iTrader: (2)

how many miles since the last change?

The Pink Ninja

iTrader: (23)

Check the bottoms of the cam covers on either side for leaks and the bottom of your oil filter, Have you got a oil temp gauge fitted as the one on your dash clocks is water temp mate, If you have got a oil temp gauge fitted to a sandwich plate its possible it could be leaking from there which is why i said the oil filter too

type-rob

Sound Gaz, will have a peak, I had the rocker gaskets done not so long ago, same time as the oil change actually... hmm No oil temp gauge either... there has to be a reason!

Bob Rawle

It takes at least 8 miles of driving to get the oil up to temperature, 3 mins is no where near enough time. Ignore the coolant temperature gauge thats no guide.

What car is this?

If you do a high weekly mileage then you should check it weekly at least. I check mine every time I come to drive it and it takes no more than a minute to do.

best regards

bob

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

As above, it's quite surprising just how long it takes to get the oil up to temp. In my opinion an oil temp and pressure gauge is a must for these cars as the OE pressure warning is a waste of time and the gauge on the dash is water.

type-rob

Wow well that is some new to me! Thanks! I warm it up for 3mins before I set off by the way, not boot it! (not that daft!) but 8 miles seems a long way! Anyway, it appears I need a temp and pressure gauge!

Its a 99 type - r bob. Forgive me if I sound daft but can the oil be checked accuratley if cold? I thought it had to be 'warm' / thin...

MattyB1983

iTrader: (51)

Yep, check it cold before you set off mate.

Deffo get yourself some gauges, they can be engine savers

360ste

iTrader: (1)

Not knocking anyone BUT sitting running the engine for three minutes before driving off is not good. This can cause the rings to stick resulting in excessive oil blow by hence high oil consumption. Equally running the engine at idle for long periods after a drive can have the same effect. Agreed don't drive aggressively from cold and allow a cool down after spirited driving. This seems like the oil change debate!! I have owned my bugeye from brand new, I drop the oil, change the filter, refill and start it up!! On every second filter change I use a high detergent oil to flush out the crap, change the filter and fill up with the good stuff. No disconnecting this sensor or that sensor. Last year the car showed 440 bhp on the clinics rollers at 104k miles on the original engine. I am choosing to go for a rebuild this year as a gift to myself for doing 22 years military service ans wanting the old bits back to look at out of curiosity. I check my oil when I clean the car so usually once a week but if I don't I don't as it does not use any. Driving style is start and roll keeping it gentle(ish) as the GEMS ECU does not like cold so may have to give it some to let it clear it's throat. I get to a national speed limit sign within 3 miles then it is fair game traffic allowing. For 3 years I used to run it round like some one would use a 1.0Ltr Micra back and for to work 2 miles max. My personal opinion is if you become paranoid about something it will go wrong as you are continually listning for a noise out of character. If mine gives a hiccup I give it a hard drive that usually solves it by cleaning out the system. It's been sat in the garage now for 2 months while I have done some work on it and hopefully Saturday will be back together for a blast to the clinic with the same view start it and roll. Feel free to slate me if you wish but I stand by 440 bhp @ 104k miles having worked on the car be it repair, modifying or servicing since 2003!!!

Maz

iTrader: (34)

Hi Rob, whilst 10w 60 oil won't cause any issues it's a bit thick for road use. I'd personally recommend 10w 40 for your car. Thicker oil causes more drag in the engine sapping a little bit of power.

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

As above 3+ litres is a lot of oil in as many thousand miles nevermind weeks, it is also possible that you have a leaking rear oil seal, but you would be able to smell that, generally.

I have also heard that it can get into the gearbox under certain cercumstances, so may be worth checking the level in there.

Either way i hope it works out well for you, i'd start saving for a rebuild though as running with 1 litre of oil in the engine does not bode well for the future longevity of said engine.

bigarf

iTrader: (67)

Theres no way that your engine oil can get into the gearbox.

Shaun

I wouldn't and I don't.....

As already said.... when your engine is cold is when the most wear will take place. Best to start and get moving and up to operating temp as soon as reasonably possible.

scoobychris300

+1 , could only get into gearbox bellhousing , then drip on floor
chris.

type-rob

Hmm, all interesting points, I have had a word with the garage and will be getting it flatbedded in tomorrow (Einstein the oil was recommended by RH motorsport? do you request different oil?)

Just spoke to said mechanics who have said than some subarus do use oil, some dont?! Again tho the amount is excessive...

The saving for a rebuild is a concern tho, I was recently rebuilt (less than 10k ago) by the previous owner. Anyone know of cost implications for a rebuild and if I may aswell go down the route of forged pistons bigger oil pump, shells rods etc and go more power? (he says like money is no option!)

Also, if the re-build is likely to be needed, wouldnt there be tell tail signs now? I thought it would be a case of its Fubar'ed or not?!!

Good to know the gearbox is safe, ish. The appears to be an argument on the best way to start your car?!

Maz

iTrader: (34)

The Millers 10w 60 is a good oil and defintely something that will offer great protection. I prefer a slightly lower weight as it suits my driving, the 10w 60 is thicker when cold and suited to a car that gets driven hard all the time. I supply my own oil when it comes to servicing time.
Maz

type-rob

Thanks for the info Maz