A 400+ shopping list for a WRX wagon
04 April 2012, 12:26 PM
#1
A 400+ shopping list for a WRX wagon
Currently running Powerstation upgrades that took the car to 320 ish, with a vf34, sti top mount etc etc. AP big brakes kit on the front and suspension on Eibachs, ARB's and KYB adjustables and so on.
But . . . ran this for 2 years now and want more pace. The engine and turbo are sweet. No issues with the car at all. Simply want more go. It's a familiar story.
I do not want to buy another car. Love the Wagon, suits my needs and I've had the car for 6 years without issue, so I'll be keeping it.
I'm not too restricted by budget yet I want to get the extra umph as efficiently as possible.
So, what are the options and what have others done?
But . . . ran this for 2 years now and want more pace. The engine and turbo are sweet. No issues with the car at all. Simply want more go. It's a familiar story.
I do not want to buy another car. Love the Wagon, suits my needs and I've had the car for 6 years without issue, so I'll be keeping it.
I'm not too restricted by budget yet I want to get the extra umph as efficiently as possible.
So, what are the options and what have others done?
04 April 2012, 12:48 PM
#2
I'm over 400bhp in a classic (420 but looking to increase the boost) and this is what I used to get there.
2005 2 litre STI short motor
ported and polished sti 3 cylinder heads
Cosworth 1.1mm head gaskets
740cc injectors
Z32 MAF
FMIC
Apexi PowerFC
Apexi AVCR
tubular headers
MD321 turbo
76mm inlet
newage coil packs with bypassed ignitor
6 speed gearbox
6 speed flywheel
6 speed starter motor
Exedy pink for 6 speed
there were other bits that I added but that's a basic spec for you
2005 2 litre STI short motor
ported and polished sti 3 cylinder heads
Cosworth 1.1mm head gaskets
740cc injectors
Z32 MAF
FMIC
Apexi PowerFC
Apexi AVCR
tubular headers
MD321 turbo
76mm inlet
newage coil packs with bypassed ignitor
6 speed gearbox
6 speed flywheel
6 speed starter motor
Exedy pink for 6 speed
there were other bits that I added but that's a basic spec for you
04 April 2012, 12:52 PM
#3
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You'll need at least an new age sti bottom end, 6 speed gearbox, larger injectors, fmic, turbo and headers, at the bare minimum. Need to know your exact spec to see if you need other bits.
04 April 2012, 02:36 PM
#5
Ideally, I'd be looking to engine/6 speed items from one source/donor car. I'll keep my eyes open. Looking to get it all done in one go to keep the overall outlay as efficient as possible.
Cheers.
04 April 2012, 04:55 PM
#6
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Depends what kind of 400+ you're looking for. I'd consider a forged 2.5 (possibly pinned) with MD321T or SC46 for a road car, you'd need your heads machined to suit the 2.5 bore as well to be spot on.
What ECU are you on and what model/age car is it?
What ECU are you on and what model/age car is it?
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05 April 2012, 12:22 AM
#8
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surely a forged 2.0l or even a 2.1 stroker would be the best engine choice for reliability,with a sc40,42,46 dependant on what he wants out of the car ie spool and driveability or more power.
with an apexi,simtek or syvecs depending on budget.
with an apexi,simtek or syvecs depending on budget.
05 April 2012, 07:35 PM
#12
These are rough prices you should be looking at
2nd hand newage short block £500
6 speed £1500 (can still run on 5 speed, until it goes)
Injectors 650cc £200-300
Turbo MD321H £800 or TD05 20G bit cheaper
Re-map £300-600
3 port boost solenoid £20
Assuming youve already got a full exhaust system
STi top mount intercooler should be okay too
Wiley
2nd hand newage short block £500
6 speed £1500 (can still run on 5 speed, until it goes)
Injectors 650cc £200-300
Turbo MD321H £800 or TD05 20G bit cheaper
Re-map £300-600
3 port boost solenoid £20
Assuming youve already got a full exhaust system
STi top mount intercooler should be okay too
Wiley
Last edited by wiley; 05 April 2012 at 07:36 PM.
05 April 2012, 07:41 PM
#13
Slightly disagree with the newage sti bottom end and the 2.5 option is expensive.
I'd use either your bottom end or go for a closed deck, and take it down the 2.1 stroker route, that way your future proofing for any further power increase, as your original posts states that you don't want an engine thats close to it's limit.
By the time you have spent on the labour charges for an sti bottom end as well as the gamble you would be taking on a second hand engine, also you may consider a refresh on said engine, you'll be very close to the cost of a 2.1.
EngineTuner are the daddies at this with a proven track record, and do very good prices on the drive in drive out, and if cash is not a major issue thats where i would spend my money in the knowledge that it will only be getting done once.
I'd use either your bottom end or go for a closed deck, and take it down the 2.1 stroker route, that way your future proofing for any further power increase, as your original posts states that you don't want an engine thats close to it's limit.
By the time you have spent on the labour charges for an sti bottom end as well as the gamble you would be taking on a second hand engine, also you may consider a refresh on said engine, you'll be very close to the cost of a 2.1.
EngineTuner are the daddies at this with a proven track record, and do very good prices on the drive in drive out, and if cash is not a major issue thats where i would spend my money in the knowledge that it will only be getting done once.
05 April 2012, 08:56 PM
#14
Slightly disagree with the newage sti bottom end and the 2.5 option is expensive.
I'd use either your bottom end or go for a closed deck, and take it down the 2.1 stroker route, that way your future proofing for any further power increase, as your original posts states that you don't want an engine thats close to it's limit.
By the time you have spent on the labour charges for an sti bottom end as well as the gamble you would be taking on a second hand engine, also you may consider a refresh on said engine, you'll be very close to the cost of a 2.1.
EngineTuner are the daddies at this with a proven track record, and do very good prices on the drive in drive out, and if cash is not a major issue thats where i would spend my money in the knowledge that it will only be getting done once.
I'd use either your bottom end or go for a closed deck, and take it down the 2.1 stroker route, that way your future proofing for any further power increase, as your original posts states that you don't want an engine thats close to it's limit.
By the time you have spent on the labour charges for an sti bottom end as well as the gamble you would be taking on a second hand engine, also you may consider a refresh on said engine, you'll be very close to the cost of a 2.1.
EngineTuner are the daddies at this with a proven track record, and do very good prices on the drive in drive out, and if cash is not a major issue thats where i would spend my money in the knowledge that it will only be getting done once.
Cheers.
06 April 2012, 07:01 AM
#15
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2.1 stroker on your existing block would be fine (should be a scd). I have a 2.5 in my bugeye wrx fully forged with AVCS heads built by WMS my engine had spun a bearing and so I had a full long engine built with mine in exchange. Cost was a shade over £4k plus my old block but included the 2.5 block, AVCS heads (all sensors), new sump, oil modine, oil pump (high pressure) and all gaskets etc. was a ready to fit long engine on return. I'm running 440 on an MD321x but am held back by the std headers at the moment. It's a great road car and pulls hard from 1500rpm. I'd suggest you try to drive/experiance both a 2.5 and a 2.1 stroker and make your mind up from there.
If I was building a track car I'd go 2.1 or 2.35 on a closed deck, for the road (and under 500) I'd go 2.5.
If I was building a track car I'd go 2.1 or 2.35 on a closed deck, for the road (and under 500) I'd go 2.5.
06 April 2012, 07:17 AM
#16
2.1 stroker on your existing block would be fine (should be a scd). I have a 2.5 in my bugeye wrx fully forged with AVCS heads built by WMS my engine had spun a bearing and so I had a full long engine built with mine in exchange. Cost was a shade over £4k plus my old block but included the 2.5 block, AVCS heads (all sensors), new sump, oil modine, oil pump (high pressure) and all gaskets etc. was a ready to fit long engine on return. I'm running 440 on an MD321x but am held back by the std headers at the moment. It's a great road car and pulls hard from 1500rpm. I'd suggest you try to drive/experiance both a 2.5 and a 2.1 stroker and make your mind up from there.
If I was building a track car I'd go 2.1 or 2.35 on a closed deck, for the road (and under 500) I'd go 2.5.
If I was building a track car I'd go 2.1 or 2.35 on a closed deck, for the road (and under 500) I'd go 2.5.
I'd love to have a drive of each!
Any offers anyone? Somerset, just down the road from Yeovil. Cup of tea and a bacon butty for any willing victi . . . . volunteers. If you're passing on your way to the West, let me know, I'm just off the A303.
11 April 2012, 08:39 AM
#23
Had a great tour of enginetuner facilities yesterday - many thanks to Alan for his time. Just agreeing a final spec but will be going with a CDB 2.1 stroker in the region of 450-500 hopefully. Some great cars on site making some serious power. Pure car ****.
11 April 2012, 12:06 PM
#25
I'm very excited, can't wait til the final spec is agreed and timescales estimated. It's such a relief to know the car is going to such a well respected and knowledgable tuner. Will post up final specs and pics as and when there is something to tell.
