ENGINE BAY TEMPS A BIT HIGH NEED SOME GOOD HEAT WRAP AND A TURBO BLANKET WHAT TO BUY
24 January 2012, 06:12 PM
#1
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ENGINE BAY TEMPS A BIT HIGH NEED SOME GOOD HEAT WRAP AND A TURBO BLANKET WHAT TO BUY
looking for some good exhaust heat wrap for my 3 bolt headers and de-cat down pipe whats the best stuff to buy and where from want some that wont fall of and tear etc,, after a week lol
also is it better to apply wet oR dry
also need a turbo blanket for a td05 20g, what make and where to buy again
thanks in advance everyone scott
also is it better to apply wet oR dry
also need a turbo blanket for a td05 20g, what make and where to buy again
thanks in advance everyone scott
24 January 2012, 06:44 PM
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DEi is supposed to be the dogs danglies but I have used Titanium Wrap from Thermal Velocity and it's appears to be lasting better than the DEi I have on my headers but it is on the downpipe so I guess under less stress.
http://www.thermalvelocity.co.uk/
http://www.thermalvelocity.co.uk/
24 January 2012, 07:05 PM
#6
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MagmaWrap V good and no need to wet before wrapping..........
http://www.thermalvelocity.co.uk/Exh...p--/p-105-408/
http://www.thermalvelocity.co.uk/Exh...p--/p-105-408/
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24 January 2012, 11:06 PM
#10
DO NOT APPLY HEAT WRAP WET.
Guide to heat wrapping.
I have used all the heat wraps I have come across over many years but so far I am settled on DEI wrap because the thermal properties are as good as anything else I have found and better than most. It also has good service life when properly applied. It is close weave so there are no holes when streached. It has a stitch down each side to act as a guide to overlap so it is easy to use and because there is less excessive wrapping, more economical in use.
Heat wrapping is not difficult if you follow these instructions but you cannot expect to achieve a professional standard on your first heat wrap operation unless you follow these instructions carefully.
Because of the cost of heat wrap ties I only use stainless steel tie wire and generally the more ties the better the job.
To use tie wire it is best to have a set of tie wire pliers/ lock wire pliers which makes twisting the tie wire that much easier.
As a rule of thumb I run a length of wrap along the component to be wrapped and then measure off X 6. This works quite well on downpipes, tubular header runners, uppipes and so forth. On a straight length I multiply by 5.
Following the stitch overlap is important to get the best economy of wrap material but check regularly to avoid skips/bare patches on sections you cannot see. Avoid over wrapping. There is nothing to gain and it is wasteful. Following the stitching on the inside of tight bends is not possible.
The wrap should be applied damp but not wet. There are chemicals in the wrap to help it bind and these should not be diluted out. You can use a house plant leaf sprayer or any other water aerosol/spray to dampen the wrap or set a sink tap to a very fine trickle and run the wrap through the trickle quite quickly. In a few minutes the water will have spread evenly throughout the weave. Do not let the impregnated chemicals run out. Keep away from foodstuff.
Wrap from the bottom to the top with the appropriate overlay.
Keep the wrap as tight as possible.
If you want to change direction that is easily achieved by turning the wrap over through 180 degrees. This is useful where there is a change of diameter for instance and helps keep the wrap tight.
Remember that the wrap on the outside of a bend requires more material and therefore the corresponding inside of the bend will have big overlaps and on a tight bend this can be almost 100%.
Do not cut the wrap in to short lengths but try to apply in continuous lengths and certainly 15 feet at a time. Wrapping a section with a single length of wrap results in a neater job.
A 3" open neck downpipe wll generally take three quarters of a roll of wrap done properly.
Remember. Keep it tight.
Tubular headers will take a full 50'.
Tie at the end and then every 3 inches but on curves or corners you can increase the number of ties.
The tie must be applied while the wrap is still damp.
Cut off any strands and loose ends.
When put on the car first there will be a lot of moisture released from the wrap. Do not be alarmed.
On damp and humid days the wrap will absorb moisture so again there will be a lot of steam.
It is quite normal for the wrap to smell for three weeks after applying as it dries through thoroughly.
Wrapped properly it can last for years.
Happy wrapping.
Guide to heat wrapping.
I have used all the heat wraps I have come across over many years but so far I am settled on DEI wrap because the thermal properties are as good as anything else I have found and better than most. It also has good service life when properly applied. It is close weave so there are no holes when streached. It has a stitch down each side to act as a guide to overlap so it is easy to use and because there is less excessive wrapping, more economical in use.
Heat wrapping is not difficult if you follow these instructions but you cannot expect to achieve a professional standard on your first heat wrap operation unless you follow these instructions carefully.
Because of the cost of heat wrap ties I only use stainless steel tie wire and generally the more ties the better the job.
To use tie wire it is best to have a set of tie wire pliers/ lock wire pliers which makes twisting the tie wire that much easier.
As a rule of thumb I run a length of wrap along the component to be wrapped and then measure off X 6. This works quite well on downpipes, tubular header runners, uppipes and so forth. On a straight length I multiply by 5.
Following the stitch overlap is important to get the best economy of wrap material but check regularly to avoid skips/bare patches on sections you cannot see. Avoid over wrapping. There is nothing to gain and it is wasteful. Following the stitching on the inside of tight bends is not possible.
The wrap should be applied damp but not wet. There are chemicals in the wrap to help it bind and these should not be diluted out. You can use a house plant leaf sprayer or any other water aerosol/spray to dampen the wrap or set a sink tap to a very fine trickle and run the wrap through the trickle quite quickly. In a few minutes the water will have spread evenly throughout the weave. Do not let the impregnated chemicals run out. Keep away from foodstuff.
Wrap from the bottom to the top with the appropriate overlay.
Keep the wrap as tight as possible.
If you want to change direction that is easily achieved by turning the wrap over through 180 degrees. This is useful where there is a change of diameter for instance and helps keep the wrap tight.
Remember that the wrap on the outside of a bend requires more material and therefore the corresponding inside of the bend will have big overlaps and on a tight bend this can be almost 100%.
Do not cut the wrap in to short lengths but try to apply in continuous lengths and certainly 15 feet at a time. Wrapping a section with a single length of wrap results in a neater job.
A 3" open neck downpipe wll generally take three quarters of a roll of wrap done properly.
Remember. Keep it tight.
Tubular headers will take a full 50'.
Tie at the end and then every 3 inches but on curves or corners you can increase the number of ties.
The tie must be applied while the wrap is still damp.
Cut off any strands and loose ends.
When put on the car first there will be a lot of moisture released from the wrap. Do not be alarmed.
On damp and humid days the wrap will absorb moisture so again there will be a lot of steam.
It is quite normal for the wrap to smell for three weeks after applying as it dries through thoroughly.
Wrapped properly it can last for years.
Happy wrapping.
24 January 2012, 11:45 PM
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any tips for wrapping a tapered sportscat downpipe ? i tried for some time and could not get the wrap to stay on the taper. ran out of time in the end and fitted it unwrapped.
25 January 2012, 07:48 PM
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thanks every one will this do the job looks the nuts aswell i think does it stay like this though or is 2" a bit wide to wrap with
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DEI-Exhaus...item45ff8dc3e8
also harvey you have pm
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DEI-Exhaus...item45ff8dc3e8
also harvey you have pm
25 January 2012, 11:00 PM
#13
I have used both Magma and Titanium wrap. Indeed I was asked to test the Magma and agreed saying I would use my infrared temperature guage amongst other tests but the roll of wrap never turned up. However, I have used both the Magma and Titanium and despite the glossy advertising neither perform as well as the buff coloured DEI sold by both myself and Nimbus and others.
Now if you look at the Magma and Titanium wrap you will see it is very open mesh so much so that you can see through it. Now if you can see through it, the heat can escape through it and this is obviously why, on the crosspipes and collectors we used as test samples, the recorded temperatures were that much higher on the external surface.
Don't always believe glossy advertising.
26 February 2012, 08:12 PM
#14
It is one of the most unattractive things to have to wrap because of its shape and the sloping circular surfaces top and bottom of the CAT. Other than practice and experience the only guidance I can give you is that if you put in 180 twists of the wrap ie. in other words you put in a turn so that the flat surface that was facing the CAT is now facing upwards. This changes the natural direction that the wrap wants to take. This helps you to get the wrap in position and tighten but you will use a lot of material to wrap this conical shapes properly. Use plenty tie wire and with a bit of effort and imagination you will soon improve in wrapping it.
I have used both Magma and Titanium wrap. Indeed I was asked to test the Magma and agreed saying I would use my infrared temperature guage amongst other tests but the roll of wrap never turned up. However, I have used both the Magma and Titanium and despite the glossy advertising neither perform as well as the buff coloured DEI sold by both myself and Nimbus and others.
Now if you look at the Magma and Titanium wrap you will see it is very open mesh so much so that you can see through it. Now if you can see through it, the heat can escape through it and this is obviously why, on the crosspipes and collectors we used as test samples, the recorded temperatures were that much higher on the external surface.
Don't always believe glossy advertising.
I have used both Magma and Titanium wrap. Indeed I was asked to test the Magma and agreed saying I would use my infrared temperature guage amongst other tests but the roll of wrap never turned up. However, I have used both the Magma and Titanium and despite the glossy advertising neither perform as well as the buff coloured DEI sold by both myself and Nimbus and others.
Now if you look at the Magma and Titanium wrap you will see it is very open mesh so much so that you can see through it. Now if you can see through it, the heat can escape through it and this is obviously why, on the crosspipes and collectors we used as test samples, the recorded temperatures were that much higher on the external surface.
Don't always believe glossy advertising.
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