2.5 v 2.35
#2
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2.35 is daddy of all builds,reliability is much better than 2.5,price is for build 2.35 is expensive but worth every penny.
Difference between the Open deck block and CDB,here are pics,which will tell more than words
CDB
ODB
And main difference between the two is reliability in high power builds,almost everyone who running 600bhp+ have 2.35,but mainly depends on your bhp target,and from this you can decide what will be more suited for you
Jura
Difference between the Open deck block and CDB,here are pics,which will tell more than words
CDB
ODB
And main difference between the two is reliability in high power builds,almost everyone who running 600bhp+ have 2.35,but mainly depends on your bhp target,and from this you can decide what will be more suited for you
Jura
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2.5's will have more torque low down but power potential is around 450-480 due to limits on the max cylinder pressures they can cope with. Unless that is you get the block Pinned, or converted to Closed Deck (so far the closed deck conversion seems to be a US only thing) also you'll probably need liners fitted which have a tendency to slip.
2.35's are based on the closed deck 2.2's with 2.5 crank - effectively a 'stroker' for the 2.2 block they are very strong 6000+ but costly as the 2.2's a rarer and sought after.
The 2.1 strokers are making good power and can be had as a semi closed deck for reasonable cost, or you can get a closed deck 2.0 and have that built as a 2.1.
There are 2.6 and 2.7 stroker options for the 2.5's if you dare!
Don't forget you'll need the heads and valves uprating as well if you go much over 500.
2.35's are based on the closed deck 2.2's with 2.5 crank - effectively a 'stroker' for the 2.2 block they are very strong 6000+ but costly as the 2.2's a rarer and sought after.
The 2.1 strokers are making good power and can be had as a semi closed deck for reasonable cost, or you can get a closed deck 2.0 and have that built as a 2.1.
There are 2.6 and 2.7 stroker options for the 2.5's if you dare!
Don't forget you'll need the heads and valves uprating as well if you go much over 500.
Last edited by BlueBugEye; 21 September 2011 at 06:18 AM.
#5
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I had had a closed deck block 2.5ltr and a 2.35ltr, although the 2.5 is a nice engine it fools you into thinking its quicker due a little bit more torque and a little earlier spool but the 2.35 is the faster block as it will rev higher with the same turbo and will make considerably more power but will be a little lazy compared to a 2.5ltr
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Without wishing to be rude
How much have you got to spend (kinda dictates what you can go for)
How much power do you want?
To get a reliable 450/450+ drive in, drive out even from something as solid as a Hawk STi will cost circa 10k (I know from experience). Never forget; there is a difference between a short engine capable of a certain output and a complete set up that will produce it! At this level, the most desirable turbos alone cost 1.5k.
At that level you're also looking at upgraded suspension. Std units not up for it and upgraded brakes.
If it's a road car and you'd be happy with 450ish, forged 2.5 with SC46 turbo everytime. Fantastic spool and torque.
If it's a race car or you want 500bhp plus, worth looking at a 2,.1 Stroker or a 2.35 if you're feeling flush!
Ns04
How much have you got to spend (kinda dictates what you can go for)
How much power do you want?
To get a reliable 450/450+ drive in, drive out even from something as solid as a Hawk STi will cost circa 10k (I know from experience). Never forget; there is a difference between a short engine capable of a certain output and a complete set up that will produce it! At this level, the most desirable turbos alone cost 1.5k.
At that level you're also looking at upgraded suspension. Std units not up for it and upgraded brakes.
If it's a road car and you'd be happy with 450ish, forged 2.5 with SC46 turbo everytime. Fantastic spool and torque.
If it's a race car or you want 500bhp plus, worth looking at a 2,.1 Stroker or a 2.35 if you're feeling flush!
Ns04
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I had had a closed deck block 2.5ltr and a 2.35ltr, although the 2.5 is a nice engine it fools you into thinking its quicker due a little bit more torque and a little earlier spool but the 2.35 is the faster block as it will rev higher with the same turbo and will make considerably more power but will be a little lazy compared to a 2.5ltr
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What's your full spec if you dont mind me asking?
Only ask as i've recently aqcuired a Lateral built 2.35 and hoping for good figures when mapped
Only ask as i've recently aqcuired a Lateral built 2.35 and hoping for good figures when mapped
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Using a rotated GT35R. Will be controlled on a Syvecs when all run in so i'm hoping for good figures.
Back on topic and to the OP, big power, go for the 2.35 if you can manage to financially
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I haven't heard of 2.35's having anymore headgasket issues over any other engine TBH.
I suppose most of the 2.35's built tend to be big powered race engines running silly amounts of boost which in it's self would lead to problems but more so what they do than what they are.
I suppose most of the 2.35's built tend to be big powered race engines running silly amounts of boost which in it's self would lead to problems but more so what they do than what they are.
#21
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Banny - I don't - It wasn't "Internet Hearsay". Since I don't believe anything anyone says (whoever they are), I thought I would ask all the same.
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