Buying a bug eye?
#1
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Buying a bug eye?
Hi all, this is my first post here so be gentle..:-)
I currently own a 'P' plate 328i and a Suzuki Vitara and am getting rid of both but want something to do the job of bothe...i.e......it needs a bit of oomph, look good and 4 wheel drive....i started looking about as to what would fill those boots and have decided a sportback will do the job nicely...
Are there any posts i should be looking at first as im not in a major hurry..perhaps a month or so!! Looking at probably a '52 plate or around that age...what do i need to look for and what to avoid as i know very little about subaru's apart from actually having driven a few at work and liking what they do
All help appreciated and thanks in advance....btw i like the blue ones...
I currently own a 'P' plate 328i and a Suzuki Vitara and am getting rid of both but want something to do the job of bothe...i.e......it needs a bit of oomph, look good and 4 wheel drive....i started looking about as to what would fill those boots and have decided a sportback will do the job nicely...
Are there any posts i should be looking at first as im not in a major hurry..perhaps a month or so!! Looking at probably a '52 plate or around that age...what do i need to look for and what to avoid as i know very little about subaru's apart from actually having driven a few at work and liking what they do
All help appreciated and thanks in advance....btw i like the blue ones...
#2
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What is your actual budget going to be ? The Bugeye is getting quite old now (and dirt cheap), and impreza's depreciate like crazy after a few years so maybe you might have enough money to be able to afford a newer car
Shaun
What is your actual budget going to be ? The Bugeye is getting quite old now (and dirt cheap), and impreza's depreciate like crazy after a few years so maybe you might have enough money to be able to afford a newer car
Shaun
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"I like the Blue Ones"
My advice, what ever you buy, get the Sti version, as sure as eggs r eggs you will want more power at some time, and when you do you will thank yourself for buying the stronger engine.
My advice, what ever you buy, get the Sti version, as sure as eggs r eggs you will want more power at some time, and when you do you will thank yourself for buying the stronger engine.
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as i said above,,,i dont even know the details of what years the various shapes were introduced or whats available so im all ears at the moment and hence coming here first......
#5
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I also dont want a complete gas guzzler but then anythings better than a 328 auto..i get about 20 mpg around here at the moment so a scooby will probably be heaven i should think..............
#6
For £3k you should be able to find a 02 plate Bug WRX (Not STi) and still have a few quid left over for sundries.
The STi has better performance (and bits) but is correspondingly more expensive. Have a wander around the for sale section on here and pistonheads for prices. As ever condition wins over mileage
Not everyone can afford an STi (I couldn't but in the long run it would have been cheaper..but that's another story LOL)
Shaun
Shaun
The STi has better performance (and bits) but is correspondingly more expensive. Have a wander around the for sale section on here and pistonheads for prices. As ever condition wins over mileage
Not everyone can afford an STi (I couldn't but in the long run it would have been cheaper..but that's another story LOL)
Shaun
Shaun
#7
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/3098915.htm
Something along these lines...... it's got an orchiari body kit on which isn't cheap and neither is a carbon dash, someone has splashed some cash at it in the past.
Just has to be mechanically sound, which is where you take the gamble with a 10 year old car LOL
Shaun
Something along these lines...... it's got an orchiari body kit on which isn't cheap and neither is a carbon dash, someone has splashed some cash at it in the past.
Just has to be mechanically sound, which is where you take the gamble with a 10 year old car LOL
Shaun
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WRX it is then :-)
Need to get shot of the Bimmer and Vitara now...never thought i'd say that about my 328.
When shopping for a WRX of that age what am i looking for.....what are the common faults to look for at certain mileages and what shouldnt you touch with a barge pole.
I know my way around a car with a set of spanners and also a rotary polisher so there isnt too much that frightens me away if it need small items looking at...
Need to get shot of the Bimmer and Vitara now...never thought i'd say that about my 328.
When shopping for a WRX of that age what am i looking for.....what are the common faults to look for at certain mileages and what shouldnt you touch with a barge pole.
I know my way around a car with a set of spanners and also a rotary polisher so there isnt too much that frightens me away if it need small items looking at...
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If you think the 328 you had was a guzzler at 20mpg. Sorry your not gonna get much of an improvment with a scooby. Yes if you drive it like miss daisy you will prob get 25mpg. If your gonna use it properly you will get no where near that. I average 20mpg normal driving on track have been as low as 6mpg
#11
I've got a MY02 bug and I can't think of anything specific apart from the usual stuff you have to look for in a 10 year old car. Knocking noise from engine and check on the cambelt / fluids change would be what springs to mind.
The WRX was pretty much crippled when it left the factory so as not to encroach on the performance of the STi version so most things run pretty unstressed. Unless it has been ragged to death
Shaun
The WRX was pretty much crippled when it left the factory so as not to encroach on the performance of the STi version so most things run pretty unstressed. Unless it has been ragged to death
Shaun
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If you think the 328 you had was a guzzler at 20mpg. Sorry your not gonna get much of an improvment with a scooby. Yes if you drive it like miss daisy you will prob get 25mpg. If your gonna use it properly you will get no where near that. I average 20mpg normal driving on track have been as low as 6mpg
I dont tend to race around, i just like a car to have power there if you want it/need it...but of course theres always moment where the speeed devil pops up on your shoulder...
I've got a MY02 bug and I can't think of anything specific apart from the usual stuff you have to look for in a 10 year old car. Knocking noise from engine and check on the cambelt / fluids change would be what springs to mind.
The WRX was pretty much crippled when it left the factory so as not to encroach on the performance of the STi version so most things run pretty unstressed. Unless it has been ragged to death
Shaun
The WRX was pretty much crippled when it left the factory so as not to encroach on the performance of the STi version so most things run pretty unstressed. Unless it has been ragged to death
Shaun
#13
If anything catches your eye then post a link to the sale on here on a seperate thread and there is usually a few people around who might be able to spot if something is amiss
Shaun
Shaun
#14
Remove the plastic drip tray under the engine compartment and check the front subframe, particularly in the front left and right hand corners.
I have a 2001 bugeye WRX and the subframe was totally rotten and not too cheap to replace.
I have a 2001 bugeye WRX and the subframe was totally rotten and not too cheap to replace.
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Hi ignore all the STI comments, a JDM STI wagon is the rarest car in the UK. Had they brought them here back in 2002 I'd have been first in the queue...
As stated clutch transmission and engine should all be quiet and operate smoothly.
But I've never seen a rotten WRX so far.
dunx
As stated clutch transmission and engine should all be quiet and operate smoothly.
But I've never seen a rotten WRX so far.
dunx
#18
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I'd say check for accident damage, knocking rear suspension, and when test driving the car should pull nicely up the rev range without flat spots.
There's a good thread on buying advice somewhere - use the search to find it.
Lastly, I'd actually avoid cars with dump valves and induction kits if the rest of the car is standard and especially if it's not been mapped for them.
Oh, and economy wise you should also realise Scoobies only run on Super unless you pay for a dual map. So your fuel costs will go up regardless, unless you run the beemer on it.
There's a good thread on buying advice somewhere - use the search to find it.
Lastly, I'd actually avoid cars with dump valves and induction kits if the rest of the car is standard and especially if it's not been mapped for them.
Oh, and economy wise you should also realise Scoobies only run on Super unless you pay for a dual map. So your fuel costs will go up regardless, unless you run the beemer on it.
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I'd say check for accident damage, knocking rear suspension, and when test driving the car should pull nicely up the rev range without flat spots.
There's a good thread on buying advice somewhere - use the search to find it.
Lastly, I'd actually avoid cars with dump valves and induction kits if the rest of the car is standard and especially if it's not been mapped for them.
Oh, and economy wise you should also realise Scoobies only run on Super unless you pay for a dual map. So your fuel costs will go up regardless, unless you run the beemer on it.
There's a good thread on buying advice somewhere - use the search to find it.
Lastly, I'd actually avoid cars with dump valves and induction kits if the rest of the car is standard and especially if it's not been mapped for them.
Oh, and economy wise you should also realise Scoobies only run on Super unless you pay for a dual map. So your fuel costs will go up regardless, unless you run the beemer on it.
#20
I doubt wether you will find an unmolested 10 year old impreza
The Bug DENSO ECU does not have the room for dual maps......simply run it on v-power or similar
Shaun
The Bug DENSO ECU does not have the room for dual maps......simply run it on v-power or similar
Shaun
#21
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Simon seems to reckon he can do it via ECUTek Shaun. I currently have two switchable boost profiles on my bug WRX Std ECU using this approach.
To the OP, a dual map allows you to run two switchable ECU maps, so you might have one for economy and one for power.
Last edited by MrNoisy; 15 August 2011 at 07:54 AM.
#22
Bugeye Scoob
My comment wasn't aimed at your post....rather at the OP's comment in post number 19 about wanting a "bog standard" one
As you say it's a matter of finding one that's been tastefully modified rathet than max-powered.
I too have an EcuTeK re-map on my Bug. I can switch to a boost restricted mode by the old trick of Full throttle and rear screen demist. It's not a dual map as there isn't enough room on the bug ECU to run dual maps.
Shaun
My comment wasn't aimed at your post....rather at the OP's comment in post number 19 about wanting a "bog standard" one
As you say it's a matter of finding one that's been tastefully modified rathet than max-powered.
I too have an EcuTeK re-map on my Bug. I can switch to a boost restricted mode by the old trick of Full throttle and rear screen demist. It's not a dual map as there isn't enough room on the bug ECU to run dual maps.
Shaun
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