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Is jet washing you engine/engine bay safe?

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Old 03 August 2011, 01:08 AM
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stryker
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Default Is jet washing you engine/engine bay safe?

As above, has anyone jet washed their engine/engine bay? I did it once on my e39 m5 and wouldnt start for a few hours.. My girlfiend spilt a fair bit of engine oil and was woundering weather it was safe on scoobys?
Old 03 August 2011, 03:08 AM
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Pink_Floyd
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You're much better using a low pressure hose, a paint brush and some good all purpose cleaner than a jet washer. Autoglym make a half decent engine cleaner. Use cling film on the battery, fuse box, MAF / airbox and anything else that's susceptible to water ingress. It will stop any damage, or at least limit it. Things to watch for are getting water in the scuttle panel. That caused my alarm siren to sound weak for two days, and water in the oil pressure switch / unit.

HTH
Old 03 August 2011, 08:12 AM
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+1
Old 03 August 2011, 08:18 AM
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washing up liquid in a spray bottle and low pressure hose should sort it out.
Old 03 August 2011, 08:49 AM
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i have done mine a few times and would agree with the above, make sure you look carefully around the engine and cover all electrical points, i covered my alternator as well but used tin foil as it was easir to mould into the shape of the part i was covering, i then used meguires ( ithink) degreaser and a stiff brush rinsing off with the hose pipe (not under pressure), after that i used Aerospace 303 to 'dress' it

This engine had 70k on it and was driven in all conditions came up nice for an hours work !

Old 03 August 2011, 09:53 AM
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lsm
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i did mine afew weeks ago, cover engine in "gunk" using paintbrush for them hard to reach mucky area's and then used my jetwash to clean it off then a nice engine wax to finish ... leave engine running whilst doing it so it can dry off asap. I never had a problem.
Old 03 August 2011, 10:35 AM
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personally wouldnt cover alternator in tin foil,

but as part of a prepping sales cars, used to steam clean all engine bays that came in - always left engine running and obv no open air filters ect.

but not a great idea tbh - the ford zetec engines, water would ingress, past the plug leads, down the vertical plug holes, and cause a missfire.

this inturn sent **** loads of unburnt feul into the cat - and after about 5 mins, you get smoke issueing from under the car lol, as heatsheilds and surrounding materials smoulder,

a quick look under the car, showed the cats glowing bright red hot lol, a bit of panic later and its decided, zetecs dont get steam cleaned lol

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Old 03 August 2011, 10:44 AM
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Crow555
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This month's Evo has a section in it about the best way to clean an engine/engine bay. It in a nutshell pretty much involved using bags to cover things like the battery, ECU and intake.
Old 03 August 2011, 11:04 AM
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Best best for getting the limescale of the metal pipes....just wirewool?? And after cleaning the engine bay should you spray something over the engine to stop rust???
Old 03 August 2011, 11:42 AM
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wirewool and a metal product will do the trick
Old 03 August 2011, 11:45 AM
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i tend to spray wd40 over electrical connections and the like prior to cleaning, and avoind water directly on them if possible.
Old 03 August 2011, 11:54 AM
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CREWJ
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I think the best way is to use a steam cleaner rather than a pressure washer.
Old 03 August 2011, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jef
personally wouldnt cover alternator in tin foil,

but as part of a prepping sales cars, used to steam clean all engine bays that came in - always left engine running and obv no open air filters ect.

but not a great idea tbh - the ford zetec engines, water would ingress, past the plug leads, down the vertical plug holes, and cause a missfire.

this inturn sent **** loads of unburnt feul into the cat - and after about 5 mins, you get smoke issueing from under the car lol, as heatsheilds and surrounding materials smoulder,

a quick look under the car, showed the cats glowing bright red hot lol, a bit of panic later and its decided, zetecs dont get steam cleaned lol
Zetec plug leads are reknowned for being rubbish. My XR3 (MKV) went through three sets in the five years I owned it. Slightest bit of damp and the spark jumps past the plug and straight to the base...often noted by the pitting of metal around the base of the ceramic.

Subarus are more water tight Used to do mine every 12months. Just engage brain...Use a fan jet (NOT pencil jet) and keep direct jets away from fuse box, alternator, intercooler (don't bend the fins) and coilpacks.

R32 Golfs are not so water tight...cam cover seal had perished on mine letting water past the coil packs and into the plug wells. Nothing a bit of compressed air didn't fix though.
Old 03 August 2011, 02:16 PM
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stryker
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Thanx for the advice guys.. Will have have a go at it this weekend taking all the advice into consideration..
Old 03 August 2011, 02:59 PM
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leecalcars
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Had mine done no problems with solution or jet wash
Old 03 August 2011, 03:19 PM
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kad 16v
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A pro detailer mate of mine wouldnt use his jet wash on any jap car as they are renowned for being a bit funny after sometimes with the electronics, he has just never done it (probably had a bad experiance in his early days)

He and i swear by Gliptone emerald clean degreaser, can be used with a paint brush on engine bays then a hose off using the hose with no end on shouldnt be powerfull enough to push past any rubber washers/membranes in electrical plugs, the jet washes power could do that quote easy though, i use the Gliptone to clean my alloys and tyres. but it can be used as a pre wash treatment to get the bugs and tar off it really is an all rounder and i have done many a engine bay as well with it

The best thing about it it is not an acid like many other degreasers are so you can use it on paint and on those delicate bits and bobs and not have to worry about it

If you do go for the jet wash option as everyone says, sandwhich bag those electric bits up

have fun

Last edited by kad 16v; 03 August 2011 at 03:21 PM.
Old 03 August 2011, 08:04 PM
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If you have a new age sti then don't attempt it unless you cover the alternator or you will be in for a big bill

Tony
Old 03 August 2011, 08:17 PM
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As above. Always cover the alternator. They are susceptible to failure when they become wet. Pressure washer unnecessary. Use decent products with some agitation, then low pressure hosepipe or watering can. Use a proper product to finish off, not WD40. W40 attracts dust and is harmful to some rubbers. It's a moisture displacer, not a finishing product
Old 03 August 2011, 08:20 PM
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I've never covered the alternator; I have gone as far as steam cleaning the casing to get it shiny again (combined with a presoak in truck wash and degreaser)...but then I do know how to rebuild them!

If an alterntor ever does pack in after washing, 90% it will be due to the brushes sticking. As nearly everything else is potted and waterproofed (regulator, windings etc), there is remote possibilty the solder terminals on the diodes can corrode, but nothing a gas soldering iron can't fix.


(My first ever job was rebuilding alternators and starter motors for LSUK, as well as diesel injectors and inline pump units ).

Last edited by ALi-B; 03 August 2011 at 08:25 PM.
Old 03 August 2011, 08:34 PM
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Ali, these have a chip in to control the charging, get em wet and you cannot replace just the chip, it's a new alternator (£800+ from a dealer), cover it

Tony
Old 03 August 2011, 09:21 PM
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Once again, as above.Cover the alternator. The "intelligent" alternators on Newage cars are susceptible to water damage. Someone on here a while ago paid for their mistake and were hit with a big bill.
Old 03 August 2011, 10:31 PM
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IMO its asking for trouble. electrical connectors and jet washing/steam cleaning is a no no. the amount of times ive heard of troubles from this.
Old 03 August 2011, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by s70rjw
Once again, as above.Cover the alternator. The "intelligent" alternators on Newage cars are susceptible to water damage. Someone on here a while ago paid for their mistake and were hit with a big bill.
I think I was the first

Tony
Old 04 August 2011, 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by TonyBurns
Ali, these have a chip in to control the charging, get em wet and you cannot replace just the chip, it's a new alternator (£800+ from a dealer), cover it

Tony
All alternators have chips inside as part of the regulator circuitry. Usually within the brush box housing an intelligent one is no different in this fact.

And these regulation circuits should be contained within potting resin.

Did you actually strip down the alternator to find out what was wrong? Bet it was repairable.

Last edited by ALi-B; 04 August 2011 at 12:12 AM.
Old 04 August 2011, 12:17 AM
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BTW you will never get alternator components from a dealer.

However you may do so from other sources. I can get Bosch and Denso alternator parts with relative ease. Not so sure with Mitsubushi....although I've seen some brand new brushboxes on ebay.
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