dump valve or bov !!! whats your choice??
#1
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dump valve or bov !!! whats your choice??
hi guys just thought ide find out what people think is the best!!! i want a bov as heard there alot louder!!!!
#4
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dont know myself was told they were two diff things.as dump vales are like around 100 pounds and bovs are just around 30 pounds!!!if there both the same why is one 3 times the price!!!i was told blow of valve isnt the sameas dump valve.some ****** has been pulling my chain i thinks!!!!
#6
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aw ok.new to these subarus so was told by somone else lol.i did wonder what was diff.!! but now iknow.im after a bailey one myself. cant have a turbo without that loud preasure gear change
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#8
no u want a hks ssqv bov got rid of my baileys straight away there for rs turbos sound the bollocks
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And we had a baileys on our 380 bhp evo worked better than the hks
Last edited by NINJA ED; 25 July 2011 at 10:04 PM.
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#19
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well if anyone has one for sale hks or bailey i just want somthing loud!!!! and not stupid ammount of money...second hand or new suits me..dont have paypal so cant send that way.!!! but im greatful for all the advice.im used to v6 and v8s this turbo thing all new to me.just love the sound and look of scoobys.and plan to make mine look the dogs bo'##cks
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A BOV and dump valve are the same thing.
There is nothing wrong with the factory fitted item.
After some modifications it is sometimes easier to fit a vent to atmosphere dump valve as it simplifies the air return pipework, particularly after fitting a front mount.
Flange adaptors are available to allow the reuse of a top mount BOV after fitting an FMIC thus saving the cost of a new D.V.
During mapping we often come across issues, particularly with HKS and Blitz DVs leaking.
There are a lot of cheapo DVs available on e-bay and elsewhere for £30 or similar that are a complete waste of money.
If I use an aftermarket BOV for some reason it is always a Forge. Simple and reliable at a cost of around £100.
Any glossy advertising that claims improved engine performance is dishonest.
If you feel the need for a loud dumpvalve and spend a couple of hundred pounds on it to frighten old age pensioners at the bus stop, that is your problem.
There is nothing wrong with the factory fitted item.
After some modifications it is sometimes easier to fit a vent to atmosphere dump valve as it simplifies the air return pipework, particularly after fitting a front mount.
Flange adaptors are available to allow the reuse of a top mount BOV after fitting an FMIC thus saving the cost of a new D.V.
During mapping we often come across issues, particularly with HKS and Blitz DVs leaking.
There are a lot of cheapo DVs available on e-bay and elsewhere for £30 or similar that are a complete waste of money.
If I use an aftermarket BOV for some reason it is always a Forge. Simple and reliable at a cost of around £100.
Any glossy advertising that claims improved engine performance is dishonest.
If you feel the need for a loud dumpvalve and spend a couple of hundred pounds on it to frighten old age pensioners at the bus stop, that is your problem.
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i spoke to david at api earlier and asked about my bolt to intercooler bailey dump valve . his advice is that new age cars do manage with vent to atmosphere valves better than classics . but his choice of after market is forge motorsport , otherwise stick with oem recirculating valve which is what im going to do
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It's the over-fuelling and bore wash issues you can get with VTA dump valves (BOV or whatever) that would concern me. Stick to the Subaru re-circulating one and you'll have none of these issues.
Unless of course your sole objective in life is to make the teenage girls who hang around the Maccy D's car park on an evening go a bit moist over your Scooby-Do
Unless of course your sole objective in life is to make the teenage girls who hang around the Maccy D's car park on an evening go a bit moist over your Scooby-Do